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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 08-22-2013, 10:38 PM
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Hey guys, my son is trying to talk me into buying a DEX410 v3 because they are currently on sale. He has one but has not run it yet. Having seen the car (even though I have been an AE guy since the original RC10 came out in 1984) I like the design, layout, and what appears to be better quliaty parts than the B44's. I also like the fact that I can run shorties (I know with some modifications) as shorties are the only batteries that i own. Here is my question. What are the mechanical downsides to the car? This would be my first wheeler if I buy one. (That's not quite true I have an original Yokomo YZ10 hanging on my wall that has never been run or even had the electronics mounted in it.)
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:41 AM
  #13247  
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Originally Posted by 1mrdad
Hey guys, my son is trying to talk me into buying a DEX410 v3 because they are currently on sale. He has one but has not run it yet. Having seen the car (even though I have been an AE guy since the original RC10 came out in 1984) I like the design, layout, and what appears to be better quliaty parts than the B44's. I also like the fact that I can run shorties (I know with some modifications) as shorties are the only batteries that i own. Here is my question. What are the mechanical downsides to the car? This would be my first wheeler if I buy one. (That's not quite true I have an original Yokomo YZ10 hanging on my wall that has never been run or even had the electronics mounted in it.)

The only downsides that I have seen owning the car is that it still needs some hop up parts to make it bullet proof, and building the car with attention to detail is critical. Once you get the car there its smooth sailing
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:57 AM
  #13248  
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
You guys need to free up the driveline to keeps the temp down... I'm running 6.5 geared at 87/21 at first temp is always an issue. I noticed the driveline is not free and that will cause heat on the motor. What causing the driveline to bind is the diff case. If you add a middle bearing on the driveline axle and this will free up the driveline with no slap and your driveline will spin more free.
I've got my drive line as free and loose as can be, if it were any freer it would be in pieces. I mangaed to get the motor temp down by retarding the motor on the end bell but the ESC is overheating now! If it ain't 1 thing its another I tell ya! I'm gonna pull 5.5 out and put my 7.5 in from my Dex210 and see what happens as far as temps are concerned.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:45 AM
  #13249  
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I put the cc1406 (I think it's 4000kv) w/ the 60A HW esc. Running it hard up and down my street and it's cool as a cucumber. Oh, and I fit the shorty pack. It took some modifications but it's in there. Also I'd like to go on record saying that I strongly dislike the pin setup for the center gear. What a PITA that thing is.

Last edited by mulepic; 08-23-2013 at 07:06 AM. Reason: changed 1410 to 1406
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:52 AM
  #13250  
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Mulepic, It might be golden now but that 60A will likely not hold up over time in this car. It's a bit heavy and on a track especially it will strain the electronics considerably more than running it up and down a smooth street. Stop, start, brake, feather, punched… it all takes a serious toll and builds heat much more rapidly than you imagine.

I'd suggest you go with a more heavy duty ESC ASAP.
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mulepic
I put the cc1410 (I think it's 4000kv) w/ the 60A HW esc. Running it hard up and down my street and it's cool as a cucumber. Oh, and I fit the shorty pack. It took some modifications but it's in there. Also I'd like to go on record saying that I strongly dislike the pin setup for the center gear. What a PITA that thing is.
the 1410 is 3800kv
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by godofcable
the 1410 is 3800kv
Thanks, I corrected it. I meant 1406. But I checked and the 1410 would fit.
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:09 AM
  #13253  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Mulepic, It might be golden now but that 60A will likely not hold up over time in this car. It's a bit heavy and on a track especially it will strain the electronics considerably more than running it up and down a smooth street. Stop, start, brake, feather, punchedů it all takes a serious toll and builds heat much more rapidly than you imagine.

I'd suggest you go with a more heavy duty ESC ASAP.
I understand your concern. I actually built an e-1/5 w/ a 120A esc so I have a little experience w/ current draw.

I'm going to hook it up to my eagle tree and see what the actual draw is, I suspect a decent capacitor(s) would do the trick. But you could be right, these low voltage setups draw the most amps. I'll let you know what I find out.
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu
ifmar world coming && v3 on sale,
according to a post in oople, it'll probably be out around November.
Any pics?
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:55 AM
  #13255  
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I'm running a RS-Pro w/ Tekin Gen2 6.5 Redline. Currently on Hotwire timing profile 3 with no changes to the end bell and no turbo. Not feeling the tourqe that I want so I'm thinking about a Pro4 4000kv. I am a bit conserned about the ESC paired to the Pro4. Any suggestions?

Current temps:
Motor 140ish
ESC 160ish
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by -DOZER-
I'm running a RS-Pro w/ Tekin Gen2 6.5 Redline. Currently on Hotwire timing profile 3 with no changes to the end bell and no turbo. Not feeling the tourqe that I want so I'm thinking about a Pro4 4000kv. I am a bit conserned about the ESC paired the the Pro4. Any suggestions?

Current temps:
Motor 140ish
ESC 160ish
The pro4 looks to run a 5mm shaft, do you have a pinion for that? There aren't many (any??) 4-pole sensored 3mm shaft motors.
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:01 AM
  #13257  
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I finally got my buggy temps down to something manageable! 160 motor 120 esc, 160 is a touch warmer than I want it to be but I'll continue working on it. My new issue is that the pin in the rear center drive shaft is intent on coming out and going thru my lipo no matter what I do. I've used the stock plastic ring and it blew thru, used heat shrink it ate thru. I'm not sure what else to do to keep that thing in safely. I'm thinking red locktite is the way unfortunately.
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:03 AM
  #13258  
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what's the smallest pinion you can run on the 410?
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mulepic
The pro4 looks to run a 5mm shaft, do you have a pinion for that? There aren't many (any??) 4-pole sensored 3mm shaft motors.
Yea, I have a 19T Robinson Racing 5mm 48p pinion.
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by TLRrunner
I finally got my buggy temps down to something manageable! 160 motor 120 esc, 160 is a touch warmer than I want it to be but I'll continue working on it. My new issue is that the pin in the rear center drive shaft is intent on coming out and going thru my lipo no matter what I do. I've used the stock plastic ring and it blew thru, used heat shrink it ate thru. I'm not sure what else to do to keep that thing in safely. I'm thinking red locktite is the way unfortunately.
The manual calls for red lock tight. Also are you sure the grub screw is contacting the flat spot on the pin?
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