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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 08-21-2013, 07:07 AM
  #13216  
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Originally Posted by zzztech
They will poke through heat shrink too if the CVD lost its grease (dry joint)
So I need to grease it not locktite is what you're saying?
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:19 AM
  #13217  
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Originally Posted by TLRrunner
So I need to grease it not locktite is what you're saying?
no you still need to locktite the set screw but grease the joint (re-grease as maintainance)
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:53 AM
  #13218  
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Originally Posted by TLRrunner
As long as the batteries are no taller than 25mm they should fit.
Apparently something changed. Either shorties got taller or the way the battery door is secured has changed. My shorties have the right height but the only way to get them to fit is to remove the diff hoop which means I need to come up w/ a new way to secure it.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:21 AM
  #13219  
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Trying to decide between getting a couple of Gens Ace saddles or Turnigy Nanos. In the past I have had better luck with Gens Ace but the saddles they have in stock are only 4800mah 25c. The Turnigys are 5100 65c. Anybody have experience with either of these batteries?
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:46 AM
  #13220  
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The Turnigy Nano's are excellent. I'd go with those because of the output. 25c is fine but 65 will provide more punch throughout the power band. I need another saddle pack a shorty and I'm going with Turnigy. The Reedy, Venom, Orion and Protek are all way too expensive.

As well, I spoke to someone in the battery industry a few months back and when I asked about 100c he told me that none of the batteries dawning 100c are actually outputting that and that they are more likely outputting more like 80-85c.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:50 AM
  #13221  
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Originally Posted by Chris Gierse
Trying to decide between getting a couple of Gens Ace saddles or Turnigy Nanos. In the past I have had better luck with Gens Ace but the saddles they have in stock are only 4800mah 25c. The Turnigys are 5100 65c. Anybody have experience with either of these batteries?
I have 2 sets of Nano saddles. They were shipped to my door (USA Warehouse) for $65. Great packs, no issues.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:57 AM
  #13222  
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It fits but it's tight.

Here's what I had to do. Trim the plastic nubs that are on the chassis at the front and rear of the battery compartment by 1.5mm or so. Then remove the bump on the diff upright that the battery clip goes through. Use the "bridge" piece for the battery clip. The battery should fit then. You have to slide it in front to back then press the front of the battery in to "snap" it into place. I filed two of the plastic 14mm hexes down to 12.5mm to use as spacers on the sides of the battery. Haven't driven it like this yet...we'll see how she does. I will still be able to use shorties if needed. I'll just need some foam at the front of the tray to keep the batteries from sliding fore and aft.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:56 AM
  #13223  
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Are you able to keep the battery door? I had to take the door off just to squeeze it in.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:09 AM
  #13224  
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Yes, you can see it in the pic. Make sure your door is mounted in the upper hole in the diff loop.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:56 AM
  #13225  
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I'm at a complete loss with why my rig is getting so damned hot! I'm geared 87/19 currently. I had previously been coming off the track at 170+motor, 130ish ESC. In an effort to slow down the motor back down the power and bring down the temps down I turned the motor timing down from the stock 20 to 10 at the motor. I ran for 8 minutes and checked my temps and the motor was 190+ and the ESC was 150! The body is so vented it looks like swiss cheese, am I under geared or something? Any thoughts?
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:04 AM
  #13226  
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Originally Posted by TLRrunner
I'm at a complete loss with why my rig is getting so damned hot! I'm geared 87/19 currently. I had previously been coming off the track at 170+motor, 130ish ESC. In an effort to slow down the motor back down the power and bring down the temps down I turned the motor timing down from the stock 20 to 10 at the motor. I ran for 8 minutes and checked my temps and the motor was 190+ and the ESC was 150! The body is so vented it looks like swiss cheese, am I under geared or something? Any thoughts?
I assume you have a modified motor like a 6.5, based on your gearing. If that is the case, you don't really need any timing since the motor is plenty fast. You should also make sure you don't have additional timing set in your esc (no boost, turbo, etc. is really needed, and if it is used, only a small amount of electronic timing advance is used for mod motors). Lastly, and this is the big one, using current limiting. If you are using a Tekin esc, keep limiting the amount of initial current until you can actually feel a change in initial response. Most people have there current limit set to 65-80%. Also use this to help stop wheel spin which also is a big contributor to a hot motor.

Oh yeah, also forgot to mention that under gearing can also lead to motor heat issues. If running a 6.5, most people use 20-21t pinions with a correctly setup esc. Some people have a bad esc setup which causes the motor to overheat, and then they keep going down in teeth to compensate, but then they find that the motor got hotter because they just under geared the motor.
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:12 AM
  #13227  
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Originally Posted by SEF
I assume you have a modified motor like a 6.5, based on your gearing. If that is the case, you don't really need any timing since the motor is plenty fast. You should also make sure you don't have additional timing set in your esc (no boost, turbo, etc. is really needed, and if it is used, and electronic timing advance is usually fairly small for mod motors). Lastly, and this is the big one, using current limiting. If you are using a Tekin esc, keep limiting the amount of initial current until you can actually feel a change in initial response. Most people have there current limit set to 65-80%. Also use this to help stop wheel spin which also is a big contributor to a hot motor.
I'm running a Reedy 5.5 and an Orion R10 pro ESC. I have everything in the ESC dialed down. The motor has 20 degrees of timing from the factory, I have it down to 10 now which has me thinking that I'm generating way too much torque. I guess I'll try going the other way with the timing and see if it helps, I'm a little frustrated to say the least.
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:03 PM
  #13228  
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Originally Posted by TLRrunner
I'm at a complete loss with why my rig is getting so damned hot! I'm geared 87/19 currently. I had previously been coming off the track at 170+motor, 130ish ESC. In an effort to slow down the motor back down the power and bring down the temps down I turned the motor timing down from the stock 20 to 10 at the motor. I ran for 8 minutes and checked my temps and the motor was 190+ and the ESC was 150! The body is so vented it looks like swiss cheese, am I under geared or something? Any thoughts?
Im geared 87/23 and Im using tons of boost and turbo with a 6.5
I had problems with heat before, but after I put a fan on the motor the temp is around 40 degrees celsius/10 min running.
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:08 PM
  #13229  
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I was looking at some factory setup sheets and saw temps all around 175 so I'm assuming it's the same for everyone.
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:38 PM
  #13230  
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Originally Posted by TLRrunner
I'm at a complete loss with why my rig is getting so damned hot! I'm geared 87/19 currently. I had previously been coming off the track at 170+motor, 130ish ESC. In an effort to slow down the motor back down the power and bring down the temps down I turned the motor timing down from the stock 20 to 10 at the motor. I ran for 8 minutes and checked my temps and the motor was 190+ and the ESC was 150! The body is so vented it looks like swiss cheese, am I under geared or something? Any thoughts?
Try somebody else's temp gun.
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