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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 08-21-2010, 03:15 PM
  #1291  
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Read my recent post on how to get rear traction slipper stock setting is way to tight plus move ur rear arms all the foward stock diffs oils will never work.. Knock on wood but my stock front brace has been fine and ive let over 10 different peeps drive my car.
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Old 08-21-2010, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
I didn't get to turn many laps before my front brace flexed and allowed the kingpin to pop out, but the stock diff fluids are too thin for a short, high traction track.
See - that's the EXACT same thing that happened to me. First time on the track the front kingpin popped out. I thought it had just flexed and popped but when I went to repair it I found that the mount had snapped. Now it's a shelf queen until Durango send the aluminum suspension mounts over to the States.

IMO this is a design flaw. That part should not break so easily nor consistently. It even happened after a clean landing over a triple.

If you have a 410R get your hands on front inner and outer aluminum mounts ASAP. Especially the outer. It will cost you $30 in shipping to get it direct from Durango.

Last edited by mdowney; 08-21-2010 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Edited: brace > suspension mount
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Old 08-21-2010, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Finally got my R on the track yesterday and it's got a ton of steering. It turns like my 2wd. I didn't get to turn many laps before my front brace flexed and allowed the kingpin to pop out, but the stock diff fluids are too thin for a short, high traction track.

A little more traction out back, and this thing will be dialed.

edit: Do you guys use the plastic rear skid plate? It's already starting to trap a lot of dirt underneath.

edit #2: When you use the driveshaft boots do they protect the bearings on the outdrives (the ones in the diff cases)?
For diff fluids try 5000 in the rear and either 10,000-15,000 in the front.
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Old 08-21-2010, 03:45 PM
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I'd love to, but stuck waiting on a suspension mount now.
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Old 08-21-2010, 08:30 PM
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The plastic one can be found for the time. I thought it wasn't as bad as people where saying than I tapped and I mean tapped a pipe. This broke both front holders and the ripped apart the shock cap in the process!
I agree for indoor high byte try 5000 in the rear and up to 20,000 in the front I run 15,000.
John I went up to the light red in the back and did not care for it but the 35 oil worked well for me. I am not running any weight though.
For those that are having leaky diffs I used generous amounts of green slime and made sure not to over fill and have had no issues.
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Old 08-21-2010, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bigBoyBigToy
Read my recent post on how to get rear traction slipper stock setting is way to tight plus move ur rear arms all the foward stock diffs oils will never work.. Knock on wood but my stock front brace has been fine and ive let over 10 different peeps drive my car.
Haven't broke mine either and I've landed on the nose a few times ....knock knock knock
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Old 08-21-2010, 11:43 PM
  #1297  
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Originally Posted by ABBOTT
The plastic one can be found for the time. I thought it wasn't as bad as people where saying than I tapped and I mean tapped a pipe. This broke both front holders and the ripped apart the shock cap in the process!
I agree for indoor high byte try 5000 in the rear and up to 20,000 in the front I run 15,000.
John I went up to the light red in the back and did not care for it but the 35 oil worked well for me. I am not running any weight though.
For those that are having leaky diffs I used generous amounts of green slime and made sure not to over fill and have had no issues.
so u broke front brace saturday? And front rear also and shock cap by just tapping a pipe? Holy hell me and everyone else who has drove my car has tapped pipes and some hard and no break hmmm u had to of did more than tap lol
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:09 AM
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Default Xtreme RC Cars experiences same problems

Interesting - I just finished reading this month's Sept issue of Xtreme RC Cars (my fav mag) and they had a review of the Durango DEX410R. The writer, Carl Hyndman, had the exact same problem that many of us experienced on our first day at the track with the Rango. He tested the car at OCRC.

I really think Durango needs to do something about the plastic front suspension blocks that so many of the 410R owners are breaking. I think I'll try and contact Durango directly to see what they're willing to do. I will try to hook you guys up with any replacements they might offer as well.

From this month's Xtreme RC Cars:

Wear and Tear - Like all buggies in this class, things can go bad really quickly and with tires and shock towers sticking out, it's just a matter of time before a hit will send you packing to the pits. The 4WD electric class is notorious for giving drivers fits, and in my case, I came up short on a triple jump and took a hit to the front left wheel. The hit wasn't too big and the suspension soaked up most of it, but I was actually surprised to find my buggy limping away shortly after. Closer inspection revealed that the hit transferred the shock to the front pivot block that quickly snapped and ejected the front hinge-pin. The part seemed to be pretty weak in that area and a little research showed me that the more expensive DEX410 uses aluminum versions. I also noticed that the rear plastic skid plate had a slight gap and this forced clay underneath it and turned it in to a boat anchor. I had to work like MacGyver to continue, but it seemed inherently ready for this problem. Overall, the main things that usually are on the list of vulnerable items, held up well and the arms and shock towers are nice and reinforced.
Rating: 6.5 (out of 10)
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:25 AM
  #1299  
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That info has been out for quite sometime all on oople review of the car.. Ive had no probs knock on wood..
I have extra plastic but im jus waiting on the aluminum to be in stock..so i dont have to worry about this.. My 3rd session with the car will be wed so will see how she holds up...
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Old 08-22-2010, 06:06 AM
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I abused the crap out of my R before I broke the plastic FF brace and I use the stock ball joints with no issues.

The Venom VNR15089 45C 5200MAH fit perfectly.

I give the DEX410R 11 out of 10 and the DEX410 spec 2010 22 out of 10. HRP has plenty of both kits in stock. Order one up today, you won't be sorry.
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Old 08-22-2010, 08:13 AM
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You won't get any replacements outta Durango.. they don't work like that.. jus like when everyone (in the uk) was having issues with pins and drive shafts..

as for the plastic parts breaking.. I know that every crash is different but relize this is the most solid car (1/10 4wd) available to date, and you bought the cheap version of it, so there will be consequences. It could be worse, it could be similar to the twig-like XX4, or the MR. Glass arms of the B44. So stock up on a few of the plastic pieces or bite the bullet and order direct and keep racing..

And you guys have to relize the tight tolerances of this car.. this is the F1 grade of RC this isn't a (anybody and their dog type of car) toy.. this a FULL spec racecar its ment to go fast,not bounce off of stuff, so when you "tap" (or smash into) a pipe things can go wrong very quickly.
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Old 08-22-2010, 09:42 AM
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For those of you trying to correct the ballcup issue.

I just installed a set of B4 FT turnbuckles with losi HD ends (RPM long ones would work too).

You need to switch over the ballstuds using TC5 ballstuds.

The car uses 4 silver 8mm ballstuds (tall) and the rest are short black ballstuds. I used 10mm for the balls on the shocktowers and 5mm for the ones on the steering rack. The long ballstuds go where the conical washers go, on the outter suspension blocks. Hopefully after this the car will be dialed. I'm heading out to the track in an hour or so.
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:02 AM
  #1303  
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Originally Posted by t8rtot
You won't get any replacements outta Durango.. they don't work like that.. jus like when everyone (in the uk) was having issues with pins and drive shafts..

as for the plastic parts breaking.. I know that every crash is different but relize this is the most solid car (1/10 4wd) available to date, and you bought the cheap version of it, so there will be consequences. It could be worse, it could be similar to the twig-like XX4, or the MR. Glass arms of the B44. So stock up on a few of the plastic pieces or bite the bullet and order direct and keep racing..

And you guys have to relize the tight tolerances of this car.. this is the F1 grade of RC this isn't a (anybody and their dog type of car) toy.. this a FULL spec racecar its ment to go fast,not bounce off of stuff, so when you "tap" (or smash into) a pipe things can go wrong very quickly.
I disagree with the first part of your statement. I emailed Durango and asked them if they had any problems with their front hubs? Because mine broke through where the bearings go. The front cvd/axle pulled right out when the plastic boss broke. I never seen this problem on any car. Was kind of not normal. Since the release of my car they updated it and comes standard on the R. It now has a larger outside bearing. They ask for all my shipping info and replaced it for free. They even gave me the larger bearings as well. Didn't even ask any questions, that's great customer service if you ask me.......
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:32 AM
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Individual cases may vary, lol. but looking historically, don't expect them to start shipping parts to everyone. And that was on a revised part issue, there is already an upgraded part to fix the issue, hence no reason for them to replace them
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:49 PM
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Well I was tearin it up at my local track with this car. Installed the front ally brace and no issues. This thing gives you so much feedback, its unlike any other car ive driven and im serious about that...running 10k up front and 5k in the rear.

No leaky diffs or shocks.

My only problem is that anytime some1 else drives my car something breaks lol. My friend drove it and crashed pretty bad. this loosened up the pinion that drives the bevel gear on the diff case and chipped one of the teeth. luckily theyre pretty cheap so I ordered 2 lol. And the bearings that hold that pinion shaft also went. I ordered soem rubber sealed ones from Xray since I use those in every car I have with no issues. So far so good guys. If youre smooth with the car I dont think you will have any issue with ball cups, I never had any pop off, maybe Im lucky?

Just drive smooth guys, all cars will break if u drive like an animal. Smoother is faster always.

Bottom line, this is unlike any car Ive ever driven.
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