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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 04-19-2013, 12:18 PM
  #12646  
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Originally Posted by Jonny5
No loctite on plastic hubs, if you need to get through a raceday and dont have parts you can use a dab of CA. But the best is to replace them. Here are the plastic one degree hubs: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCCTJ&P=7. The pic shows the old style with the small outer bearing, but I'm thinking there was a running change with the same part number. Searches of Tower and TD's website showed the same pic and part number.

But as said above, the Tresrey hubs are the hot ticket. We have a set on Cush's buggy with over two seasons of racing and they are still nice and tight. And about as bulletproof as you can get
Alright thanks for the link! I really wish I could get a set of brand new plastic hubs to hold the pins in place but they don't seen to be able to do it. I will defiantly look into the aluminum Tresrey hubs.

Thanks!
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:33 AM
  #12647  
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Hi guys.I've been running a v3 on an indoor carpet track for around a year. Using orion r10 pro esc and 5.5 motor. Gearing 87/18 with no great issues.we have recently revived an old dirt track in my area and are going to start club meets in the nader future. I have set up another 410 with carbon chassis and alloy side pods. going to run a rs pro with 7.5. Was geared at 85/20 with no heat issues but stripped spur and put a 87 back in and started getting heat problems. What is a good starting point for gearing and esc stings for the rs pro.

Thanks.
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Old 04-21-2013, 06:18 AM
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I've searched this thread pretty well and haven't found my answers so I'll ask.

Just bought the 410Rv3 from Tower because of the great deal they were offering. Came with the carbon towers, sway bar set and a few other odds and ends.

My question is concerning the small bore shocks. What is a good starting oil combination considering that I'll be using the stock pistons that come with the small bore shocks? Track will be indoor clay that is moist in the morning and drying out in the afternoon. I'll literally be building it the day before the race and I won't have the time to mess with springs and whatnot. I'll be running shorty packs because that's what I have on hand right now. Where should I start setup wise? Point me to a base setup sheet maybe? I've read through the thread and also the TD tips on their website. Any other tips?

Stoked to be back with TD!
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:30 AM
  #12649  
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Originally Posted by McD44
I've searched this thread pretty well and haven't found my answers so I'll ask.

Just bought the 410Rv3 from Tower because of the great deal they were offering. Came with the carbon towers, sway bar set and a few other odds and ends.

My question is concerning the small bore shocks. What is a good starting oil combination considering that I'll be using the stock pistons that come with the small bore shocks? Track will be indoor clay that is moist in the morning and drying out in the afternoon. I'll literally be building it the day before the race and I won't have the time to mess with springs and whatnot. I'll be running shorty packs because that's what I have on hand right now. Where should I start setup wise? Point me to a base setup sheet maybe? I've read through the thread and also the TD tips on their website. Any other tips?

Stoked to be back with TD!
Don't have a small bore setup for you, but check petit.rc for setups and look for a 2010 clay setup to see if you can find one that uses small bores.

On clay, I found I needed to add some weight to the rear, so I bought the TD weight set. Some people just take some lead weights and put them in the rear; right behind the battery. Since you're running shorty pack, I suspect you'll find the rear a bit squirly without at least a little extra weight back there.

I don't know if the small bores have any leaks, but it won't hurt to build them using a little green slime in the o-rings. The action on the TD shocks are good, but when I first built them on my 210, they leaked a little out of the bottom so I used some green slime and the problem went away completely.
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Old 04-22-2013, 01:22 PM
  #12650  
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Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine
Don't have a small bore setup for you, but check petit.rc for setups and look for a 2010 clay setup to see if you can find one that uses small bores.

On clay, I found I needed to add some weight to the rear, so I bought the TD weight set. Some people just take some lead weights and put them in the rear; right behind the battery. Since you're running shorty pack, I suspect you'll find the rear a bit squirly without at least a little extra weight back there.

I don't know if the small bores have any leaks, but it won't hurt to build them using a little green slime in the o-rings. The action on the TD shocks are good, but when I first built them on my 210, they leaked a little out of the bottom so I used some green slime and the problem went away completely.
Awesome, thanks! I am planning on adding a decent amount of weight to the back. I have plenty of stick on lead weights on hand that should fit in the empty areas left in the battery tray.
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Old 04-22-2013, 02:09 PM
  #12651  
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Originally Posted by Hyper Sean
Hi guys.I've been running a v3 on an indoor carpet track for around a year. Using orion r10 pro esc and 5.5 motor. Gearing 87/18 with no great issues.we have recently revived an old dirt track in my area and are going to start club meets in the nader future. I have set up another 410 with carbon chassis and alloy side pods. going to run a rs pro with 7.5. Was geared at 85/20 with no heat issues but stripped spur and put a 87 back in and started getting heat problems. What is a good starting point for gearing and esc stings for the rs pro.

Thanks.
Hey Sean, I ran an Rs Pro in my sons 410 with a Epic 7.5 nemesis. We had it in Dual mode, geared at 87/22..We do have some air vent holes cut in to the shell to let cool air in, and IMO this is a must, unless you run in cooler climates constantly..
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:50 PM
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hey guys, any of you have tested the Viper RC VTX10R/VST8.5T combo? is it any good?
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by crlock
hey guys, any of you have tested the Viper RC VTX10R/VST8.5T combo? is it any good?
Yes, or a close configuration. I ran the VTX10RBE with VST 7.5. Ran very well and pretty cool. Mess around with the Punch and Throttle PWM to find your feel.

The Black Edition has an improved BEC and larger/remote Cap.
If your running the stock TD body you maybe restricted for space with the BE, so would go with the original VTX10R. I ran the JC body so was able to find somewhere for the larger Cap.

Viper ESC's come pre-soldered and don't forget the 365day warranty
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by crlock
hey guys, any of you have tested the Viper RC VTX10R/VST8.5T combo? is it any good?
I run that viper 8.5t, thing runs HOT but seems to work well, I currently run the hw v3.0 esc w/ it but use to run the v2.1
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:12 PM
  #12655  
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Originally Posted by crlock
hey guys, any of you have tested the Viper RC VTX10R/VST8.5T combo? is it any good?
i am running the 6.5T viper system and love it, but wouldnt recommend a 6.5t motor, its real powerful.
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:36 AM
  #12656  
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on the tresrey hubs, are most running 0 or 1 degree on high bite damp clay?
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:12 AM
  #12657  
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Thankyou guys, i'm buying it then I'll let you know how it turns out.
Cheers
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:37 AM
  #12658  
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Originally Posted by crlock
Thankyou guys, i'm buying it then I'll let you know how it turns out.
Cheers
If you need any help, hit me up or there is a great Viper forum on here also
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:00 AM
  #12659  
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr
on the tresrey hubs, are most running 0 or 1 degree on high bite damp clay?
I use, and got the impression that most people use the 1 degree, in general.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:11 AM
  #12660  
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr
on the tresrey hubs, are most running 0 or 1 degree on high bite damp clay?
I'd run the 0 degree for high bite as it will rotate a bit better. But if you find yourself getting loose on exit with your stock 0 degree hubs the 1 degrees will help you out there. The 1 degrees can also be flipped side to side to achieve 2 degrees of total rear toe as well if desired.
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