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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 04-02-2013, 02:06 PM
  #12586  
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I use sc-10 slipper pads. No luck on the wraps.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:50 PM
  #12587  
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Just got my 1st Durango, DEX410v3, I got this one because the carbon on shock towers & the fact that it also came with the big bore shocks. The car it self looks like an assum machine, but the parts and there faulty fitting makes this one of the most undisarible car ever put together by me. Enough said, I was wondering if the axle boots actually stay on the out drives while running the straight away or through jumps and woops. I like the idea of keeping the small parts lube. Not sure if the boots will work well on the shocks while unit is running through lots of rough surfiece. I want to order more parts for this thing just want to make them count. I do plan to race it, after I have seen what I need to adjust. I have all ready order new bulkheads and other parts I have seen that could be trouble. Not sure at this time if I want to put wheight on the rear of this unit. Not until I drive it. I like my buggy to stay light and quick. I'm sure my diff oil will change along with shock oil, a little bit. Of the three DEX410 are parts interchangeable. At 1st guess I would say, yes but I'm not sure.
Thank you
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:55 PM
  #12588  
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Oh yes one thing, this car will be indoors only. Dirt indoor track, more like clay.
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:15 PM
  #12589  
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Only parts you will need if you don't crash a ton are the rear alum diff brackets (l/R) and the weight set imo. Maybe a set of extra ball ends to swap if you have a few hits and pop them. Ive seen a few front drive shafts snap when the c-hub screws get a little loose, so I guess one of those in the box would be good too. I have zero issues w/ mine with parts and "fitting", and the boots all stay on very nice.. no issues, at least for me. May want an extra rear wing for the box Forget if that version comes w/ the aluminum hex's, good item to have too.

Last edited by 8ight-e; 04-04-2013 at 04:41 AM.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:54 AM
  #12590  
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IMO, Team Durango's parts/fitting is second to none. I can't think of another company that builds a 4x4 that I can have all 3 diffs out, oil changed and back in a total of 15 minutes. Maybe a Slash would be a better match for u. U could always convert it to one of those backslash's to get ur buggy.
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:14 AM
  #12591  
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Hello, I just finished assembling my DEX410V3, but the front and rear differentials were very hard. Is this normal??

Thanks. Best Regards.
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:04 AM
  #12592  
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Originally Posted by yogii
Oh yes one thing, this car will be indoors only. Dirt indoor track, more like clay.
I currently run no boots on my vehicle. They are very handy but I prefer running none and doing a bit of extra maintenance. I also found they changed my buggys driving for some reason, I might have put them on incorrectly though.
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:05 AM
  #12593  
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If they are "hard" as in notchy then somethings probably not right. All my TD diffs have gone together super smooth and lasted.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown up
IMO, Team Durango's parts/fitting is second to none. I can't think of another company that builds a 4x4 that I can have all 3 diffs out, oil changed and back in a total of 15 minutes. Maybe a Slash would be a better match for u. U could always convert it to one of those backslash's to get ur buggy.
I'm sorry if offended someone, I think a Slach is a great car to get new people into racing. I wouldn't own one but its a car that's maid to get everyone out to the track.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:26 AM
  #12595  
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Originally Posted by Guillermito
Hello, I just finished assembling my DEX410V3, but the front and rear differentials were very hard. Is this normal??

Thanks. Best Regards.
Did you have problems with the driveshaft gear input to fitting into the bevel gear, you might want to look at this. Also ware you able to spin the diff cups before putting it into the housing. I only used 10,000 gear oil to start, but I'm sure it will dop to 7 and 5 or even 5 and 3 by the time im done. They say to use 20,000 not sure why. If I was building an on-road car I could see it.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:34 AM
  #12596  
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Originally Posted by yogii
Did you have problems with the driveshaft gear input to fitting into the bevel gear, you might want to look at this. Also ware you able to spin the diff cups before putting it into the housing. I only used 10,000 gear oil to start, but I'm sure it will dop to 7 and 5 or even 5 and 3 by the time im done. They say to use 20,000 not sure why. If I was building an on-road car I could see it.
20,000 is to tame the massive steering
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:14 AM
  #12597  
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Originally Posted by yogii
Just got my 1st Durango, DEX410v3, I got this one because the carbon on shock towers & the fact that it also came with the big bore shocks. The car it self looks like an assum machine, but the parts and there faulty fitting makes this one of the most undisarible car ever put together by me. Enough said, I was wondering if the axle boots actually stay on the out drives while running the straight away or through jumps and woops. I like the idea of keeping the small parts lube. Not sure if the boots will work well on the shocks while unit is running through lots of rough surfiece. I want to order more parts for this thing just want to make them count. I do plan to race it, after I have seen what I need to adjust. I have all ready order new bulkheads and other parts I have seen that could be trouble. Not sure at this time if I want to put wheight on the rear of this unit. Not until I drive it. I like my buggy to stay light and quick. I'm sure my diff oil will change along with shock oil, a little bit. Of the three DEX410 are parts interchangeable. At 1st guess I would say, yes but I'm not sure.
Thank you
What specifically did you have problems with fitting together. I have built several V3's and have never had any fitment issues with parts. The kit is probably the best engineering 4wd buggy out there.
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Old 04-05-2013, 01:34 PM
  #12598  
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With out a dough this 4 wheel drive buggy is the best one out there. Other wise I would have not purchase it. I didn't come here to put it down just to get support for it. I know there are a lot of us out there not sponsored. We just want to find some of the answers to correct problems. Here goes, as I was assembling my cars front and rear bulkheads I notice that the screws ware stretching out the bulkheads around the area ware the lower arms travel. Not a big deal. When I started assembling the driveshaft gear input to the pinion. I notice, I was not able to run down both set screws into the driveshaft input. I check one part with the other until I realize that the driveshaft gear input had issues. 1 out 2, so I took it and dermal it out. Then I was able to slip it all the way. I have not yet run my car, not because issues, but rather I want to find out something. Oh yes I'm also waiting for my saddle batteries to come in 2 sets.(I own a lot of different batteries but no saddle) I don't believe in going out getting everything aluminum right of the bat. But not sure what I'm suppose to do. The front wheel bearing carrier is good and snug against the 14mm hex for the wheels. But the rear has about a 2 to 2-1/2mm slop in the wheel bearing carrier. I know I put the bushing in the center, not sure if it takes a spacer on the outside before the 14mm hex goes on or not. The illustration does not show it, page 38 front assembly, page 39 rear assembly of the wheel hubs.
Thank you
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:16 PM
  #12599  
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Bulkhead screws... yep they do that I haven't had one not do that but they haven't split or broken there as far as I know.

I'm not sure what you mean about the drive shaft pins. You want to use 2 grub screws rather than the 1 that's in the manual?
Then yes you need to do your own mod to use both. Great piece of mind but I haven't had to do that to mine.

With the bushing bearings and hex, yep I actually was having a play with my car today and found this as well.
There are a shim from the earlier models (pre V3) that use shims on the cone and roll pin fixtures, maybe worth getting them if your worried. I might just look into shimming the rears myself.

You don't need all the alu bits, people here are going to say they are just shiny stuff others will say a must.

I have always had the rear alu holders so can't comment about the plastic stock ones.

Same with the plastic diff loops, I broke a plastic one putting in the diff so I got the F+R alu loops

Alu servo saver arm.. yep, myself and several at the club have broken the stock plastic ones so I can recommend that.

Other than that glue the carbon fiber tower edges and enjoy!!
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:31 PM
  #12600  
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Originally Posted by yogii
With out a dough this 4 wheel drive buggy is the best one out there. Other wise I would have not purchase it. I didn't come here to put it down just to get support for it. I know there are a lot of us out there not sponsored. We just want to find some of the answers to correct problems. Here goes, as I was assembling my cars front and rear bulkheads I notice that the screws ware stretching out the bulkheads around the area ware the lower arms travel. Not a big deal. When I started assembling the driveshaft gear input to the pinion. I notice, I was not able to run down both set screws into the driveshaft input. I check one part with the other until I realize that the driveshaft gear input had issues. 1 out 2, so I took it and dermal it out. Then I was able to slip it all the way. I have not yet run my car, not because issues, but rather I want to find out something. Oh yes I'm also waiting for my saddle batteries to come in 2 sets.(I own a lot of different batteries but no saddle) I don't believe in going out getting everything aluminum right of the bat. But not sure what I'm suppose to do. The front wheel bearing carrier is good and snug against the 14mm hex for the wheels. But the rear has about a 2 to 2-1/2mm slop in the wheel bearing carrier. I know I put the bushing in the center, not sure if it takes a spacer on the outside before the 14mm hex goes on or not. The illustration does not show it, page 38 front assembly, page 39 rear assembly of the wheel hubs.
Thank you
2.5 mm is a lot of slop, I would double check everything then shim if needed. I have a .02 shim between bearing and al hex. kyosho clutch shims fit and come in a bag with several different thickneeses. I have experienced the bulging you noted on my trucks rear bulkhead but just figure I picked up a long screw. Take a cone shaped bit to the crease area and make sure you have free arm movement....
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