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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 03-04-2013, 08:19 PM
  #12436  
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Originally Posted by flame56mx
I look at the Djoints differently, less drag, less heat under the shell, less wear and tear on other parts. No, maybe no noticeable difference on the clock, but neither does many of the carbon parts, gold or red washers, flashy paint schemes that we all pay plenty for...Something that may help my diffs last longer, helps keep motor temps down even 5*, and quiet the car down. Im in..

Cameron, I am running 1.6 2-hole front, and 2.7 2-hole rear 35 losi on both ends..
Don't get me wrong my buggy has them. But mostly because it came on it. They do work.

I spent the day at the tack yesterday, first time with this buggy. Small to medium clay track kinda bumpy now and seem to favor the 5 hole pistons. Seems this chassis everyone likes something different. AE and Kyosho almost everyone runs the same pistons. I'm just trying to find the sweet spot in the piston and spring combo that I can tune around. I do like this chassis the most of all the ones I have drove.

Last edited by Cameron Kellogg; 03-05-2013 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:52 AM
  #12437  
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Don't get me wrong djoints are a fine part.. but I'd love to see the testing done to get that 10' figure.. I know a few that run them and my buggy run's just as quiet and in the same temp range, maybe I'm just lucky though.

PS 1.2x6 front w/ 45wt losi, 1.2x6 rear w/ 40wt losi works great for me. The blue springs front and rear with the smallest sway in the kit on the rear.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:26 AM
  #12438  
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Just changed from AE B44.1 to Dex410v3 with small bores. It drives good, I like!

This is maybe sixth or seventh run with it....:

http://youtu.be/tJi_QucOHAE
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:04 AM
  #12439  
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Originally Posted by Uijui
Just changed from AE B44.1 to Dex410v3 with small bores. It drives good, I like!

This is maybe sixth or seventh run with it....:

http://youtu.be/tJi_QucOHAE
Man that's a big switch! B44.1 are very good buggys. I miss my old b44 ran it dozen times and never had anything break!
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:02 PM
  #12440  
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Originally Posted by Blown up
Hey Vincent, How those square diffs workin out? Did u make it to RCE for the Snowball?
Have to say you were spot on.

Going 5k diff fluids front and rear really helped settle the rear end of the vehicle coming in and out of turns. I feel like balanced or square diff fluids front and rear creates close to equal differential action on all four wheels. I think its fitting for this vehicle since the weight distribution on the DEX410 is close to 50/50. Thanks for the tip .

No RCE for me. Saturday night wiped me out. See you Sat?
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:02 AM
  #12441  
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Hey guys, I really need some help here. I got the buggy running great around the track except for sweepers. The buggy really likes to step out when I am on power and turning. Not talking about a sharp turn but a long sweeper. It snaps around really fast unless I baby the throttle. I have tried everything from springs, oils, camber links, tires. Again it drives good everywhere else. Wondering if I need to look at diff oils next. Currently running 10k/10k. Would a lighter rear diff oil help this?
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:38 AM
  #12442  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
Hey guys, I really need some help here. I got the buggy running great around the track except for sweepers. The buggy really likes to step out when I am on power and turning. Not talking about a sharp turn but a long sweeper. It snaps around really fast unless I baby the throttle. I have tried everything from springs, oils, camber links, tires. Again it drives good everywhere else. Wondering if I need to look at diff oils next. Currently running 10k/10k. Would a lighter rear diff oil help this?
A lighter oil will help. You could try 5 in the rear. If you want to spend some money this is where the 21 degree castor blocks helped. Try the oil first as it doesn't cost anything. Maybe a rear swaybar as well.

Last edited by Bman's 3XNT; 03-06-2013 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:20 AM
  #12443  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
A lighter oil will help. You could try 5 in the rear. If you want to spend some money this is where the 21 degree castor blocks helped. Try the oil first as it doesn't cost anything. Maybe a rear swaybar as well.
I have swaybars but I am currently only running the front sway bar. Maybe this is causing this? Should I try running rear only swaybar?

What is the standard caster block degree?

So in this order:
Rear Gear oil 5k
Remove front sway bar add rear swaybar
21 degree castor block
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:48 AM
  #12444  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
I have swaybars but I am currently only running the front sway bar. Maybe this is causing this? Should I try running rear only swaybar?

What is the standard caster block degree?

So in this order:
Rear Gear oil 5k
Remove front sway bar add rear swaybar
21 degree castor block
Maybe the front swaybar is screwing you up. The stock blocks are 17 I believe.
1 Remove front add rear sway
2 Oil
3 21 blocks
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:27 PM
  #12445  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
Hey guys, I really need some help here. I got the buggy running great around the track except for sweepers. The buggy really likes to step out when I am on power and turning. Not talking about a sharp turn but a long sweeper. It snaps around really fast unless I baby the throttle. I have tried everything from springs, oils, camber links, tires. Again it drives good everywhere else. Wondering if I need to look at diff oils next. Currently running 10k/10k. Would a lighter rear diff oil help this?
I'm no expert but based on recent experience it sounds like you are "diffing out" as weight is transferring to the outside wheels. I assume that since you have a sweeper at your track you are racing at a fairly large track. Thicker fluids may help remedy your problem. Also I would run sway bars front and rear to keep the DEX flatter through the sweeper. Don't go too thick as I have done in the past. It locks the diffs and affects the buggys ability to rotate through tight turns. Finding a sweet spot is the difficult part.
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:19 PM
  #12446  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
Hey guys, I really need some help here. I got the buggy running great around the track except for sweepers. The buggy really likes to step out when I am on power and turning. Not talking about a sharp turn but a long sweeper. It snaps around really fast unless I baby the throttle. I have tried everything from springs, oils, camber links, tires. Again it drives good everywhere else. Wondering if I need to look at diff oils next. Currently running 10k/10k. Would a lighter rear diff oil help this?
Post the whole setup, right down to the tires and foams. Post a photo of the track surface. What motor, esc and batteries? Slipper locked or slipping.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:11 PM
  #12447  
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I noticed a couple of guys talking about breaking front CVD's a few pages ago.
I race on carpet a lot and mysteriously went through a few of them in a row. I found two causes in my case, but only one of them would happen for most people.
I did the 5mm mod to the front end to lengthen my wheelbase. After examining the mod very closely, I found that it increases the steering angle of the inside wheel at full lock. This angle is just a bit too much for the joint under load. Needles to say I've removed the 5mm mod.
The second thing I have found with the CVD's is that the cross pin, which has a flat spot ground into it, is not ground precisely. The flat spot on all the recent CVD's I've owned is not centered. Its offset slightly to one side.
I've found that when an offset pin is installed, it never truly rides centered within the cvd. The pin always ends up slightly offset to one side, even when its carefully installed at first.
Examining a damaged cvd more closely, I can clearly see that on the end that is sunken (as opposed to the end that is sticking out slightly) the pin started to grind out the metal around the hole through which it passes and once enough was gone, it allowed the pin to slide out of place and jam. It would either snap the shaft or snap the joint.
Solution? Some very careful work with a cutoff wheel and diamond file to enlarge the flat spot on the pin so that its centered. Then I take the grub screw and flatten the end on a dremel to enlarge its contact area on the pin. Another solution could be a longer pin that sticks out past the outside of the cvd just a bit. That way it could never slide in and grind away as the offset ones tend to do.
Does anyone out there know of a pin that's the same diameter but maybe a tad longer? I'd be happiest with that as a fix.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:58 PM
  #12448  
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Originally Posted by Gump
I noticed a couple of guys talking about breaking front CVD's a few pages ago.
I race on carpet a lot and mysteriously went through a few of them in a row. I found two causes in my case, but only one of them would happen for most people.
I did the 5mm mod to the front end to lengthen my wheelbase. After examining the mod very closely, I found that it increases the steering angle of the inside wheel at full lock. This angle is just a bit too much for the joint under load. Needles to say I've removed the 5mm mod.
The second thing I have found with the CVD's is that the cross pin, which has a flat spot ground into it, is not ground precisely. The flat spot on all the recent CVD's I've owned is not centered. Its offset slightly to one side.
I've found that when an offset pin is installed, it never truly rides centered within the cvd. The pin always ends up slightly offset to one side, even when its carefully installed at first.
Examining a damaged cvd more closely, I can clearly see that on the end that is sunken (as opposed to the end that is sticking out slightly) the pin started to grind out the metal around the hole through which it passes and once enough was gone, it allowed the pin to slide out of place and jam. It would either snap the shaft or snap the joint.
Solution? Some very careful work with a cutoff wheel and diamond file to enlarge the flat spot on the pin so that its centered. Then I take the grub screw and flatten the end on a dremel to enlarge its contact area on the pin. Another solution could be a longer pin that sticks out past the outside of the cvd just a bit. That way it could never slide in and grind away as the offset ones tend to do.
Does anyone out there know of a pin that's the same diameter but maybe a tad longer? I'd be happiest with that as a fix.
Yes the end of this pin will get rounded through use and if you don't replace, one end will step out and cause the problem you describe.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...4ba55596354aca

Maybe try Xray pins? possibly harder material so less likely to wear out
Attached Thumbnails Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-driveshaft-pins.jpg  
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:25 AM
  #12449  
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I broke a front cv in the main tonight. Snaped off at the axle like others have shown on here. I kind of feel it was my fault though. I left a triple heading for a landing against the wall. Tried to whip it over for the save and broke the axle when it landed against the wall. Other than that felling pretty dialed for a first race night. I was was a straight away from lapping second when it happened. Had 10 laps in a row .2 seconds off from each other then . Liking the shorty pack on a indoor clay track too.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:53 AM
  #12450  
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has anyone tried the Tresrey universial frt/rear shafts? i have yet to snap the stock CV so wonder if the Tresrey are stronger?
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