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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 01-23-2013, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by kold blood
I have a Tekin RS Pro that is getting overheated with temps rising up to 158 degrees and my 6.5 Red Line Tekin motor temp is at 165 degrees. My gearing is at 87/21. What should I do to get the temperature down? Any suggestions?
When I ran that setup with a 6.5. I would thermal the esc. I run on medium bite track. If had high bite then the 6.5 would be ok.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by kold blood
I have a Tekin RS Pro that is getting overheated with temps rising up to 158 degrees and my 6.5 Red Line Tekin motor temp is at 165 degrees. My gearing is at 87/21. What should I do to get the temperature down? Any suggestions?
As long as nothing is binding, then check out setups on Tekins site. I gear with a 22. 21 should be ok for smaller tracks. Current limit is key. Have it set at 70-75. Also make sure you are running 0 timing.

Originally Posted by jmackani
How many leds are lit on the speed control?
This is a good and easy check. If you see no more than 4, you are fine. Just go to neutral and you will see the leds blink. No more than 4 means the temps are fine.

Originally Posted by Synergy
When I ran that setup with a 6.5. I would thermal the esc. I run on medium bite track. If had high bite then the 6.5 would be ok.
Sounds like too much wheel spin. Again current limiting will help temps and will reduce wheel spin.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by kold blood
I have a Tekin RS Pro that is getting overheated with temps rising up to 158 degrees and my 6.5 Red Line Tekin motor temp is at 165 degrees. My gearing is at 87/21. What should I do to get the temperature down? Any suggestions?
I ran the same motor/esc in mine in dual mode and it ran nice and cool. Make sure you cut a few holes in the body to let some air flow through, 4wd's are notorious for being stuffy under their lids.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
I would be willing to bet your main problem is the piston and oil combo. With either the 6 hole pistons 1.2 or 1.3, the front end does not have enough pack. The front of your car will scrub off the face of jumps causing the car to jump all funny... If you still have the blanks from the kit, try a 2-hole front piston. Try starting at 1.6mm 2-hole. In my case, since my local track is pretty rutted out, i need less pack and use 1.7mm 2 hole 42.5 wt in the front . as some have posted, try a 2 hole in the rear, for me its too much pack....

And your video is not working.
Thanks symmetricon. I will make the change and report back. I just went through the buggy and freshened everything up and put the setup I posted back on and it felt pretty good and came back to where it was. The rear kick is still there but I am compensating for it. If I don't get a small drill bit in time for the weekend I will try 3 holes in the front and rear and bring the front oil weight up.

I will report back.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
They could be trying to reducing steering/grip a little, I know I have more than needed most of the time. They could just be looking for a better f/r balance and found that it was the easiest way to achieve desired results, why add weight when you can just take a touch away
Thanks for the Info, sounds logic to me!
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by kold blood
I have a Tekin RS Pro that is getting overheated with temps rising up to 158 degrees and my 6.5 Red Line Tekin motor temp is at 165 degrees. My gearing is at 87/21. What should I do to get the temperature down? Any suggestions?
I had the same problem as you. What helped me was opening up the body vents as much as I could. I also enlarged the side cut out for the steering rack to let in more air.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:39 PM
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Anyone running the DE Wheels and if so do you like them?
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mxpdx
Anyone running the DE Wheels and if so do you like them?
I have tried a set and they were fine. They really were not better than the stock and looked kinda silly with the fake lug nuts. But that is just an opinion on looks--they worked quite well.
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Mxpdx
Anyone running the DE Wheels and if so do you like them?
i never used anything but de wheels on my dex210 ive even used acetone on two sets all seven sets i own are still great just hate how the fake bead lock lugs get clay in them then you gotta scrape it out with a needle or toothpick
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:15 AM
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Well I ran my DEX210 for the first time last night. First time on a track in very long time. Liked the buggy soooooo much I brought a new DEX410R-V3. I am in the process of building it right now. Any tips or pointers before I go back and read all 800 pages lol
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by dgdcustoms
Well I ran my DEX210 for the first time last night. First time on a track in very long time. Liked the buggy soooooo much I brought a new DEX410R-V3. I am in the process of building it right now. Any tips or pointers before I go back and read all 800 pages lol
The TD website is pretty good for this purpose--check "In the Pits" section for this car. I am not sure what is the difference between the "R" version of this car but imagine it does not include some of the upgrades. Aluminum inner & outer hinge pin braces are very nice to have, aluminum servo saver is pretty much mandatory, and aluminum rear diff hoop is worth the investment. Enjoy!
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by dangerwr
The TD website is pretty good for this purpose--check "In the Pits" section for this car. I am not sure what is the difference between the "R" version of this car but imagine it does not include some of the upgrades. Aluminum inner & outer hinge pin braces are very nice to have, aluminum servo saver is pretty much mandatory, and aluminum rear diff hoop is worth the investment. Enjoy!
Yes it has all the upgrades and I have been building to the tech tips on the site. I will get the them other parts you speak of. Sorry it isn't a "R" just V3.
Thank You
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:15 AM
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hello,

here is a pic, how my painting ended up!
at the beginning, i want to make flames on it, but i decided, for my first airbrush experiences, not to make some to difficult, so this comes out....

i'm quite happy, how it looks.
Attached Thumbnails Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-my_dex41v3.jpg  
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:21 AM
  #12014  
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Originally Posted by dgdcustoms
Well I ran my DEX210 for the first time last night. First time on a track in very long time. Liked the buggy soooooo much I brought a new DEX410R-V3. I am in the process of building it right now. Any tips or pointers before I go back and read all 800 pages lol
10k fluid front and rear diff is awesome.

keep a set of the rear diff braces or swap to aluminum, plastics will break at some point. I'd keep the plastic rear side braces, I'd keep the stock shock towers. The rear skid weight is the only must have, but if you don't mind spending money get the 3 piece kit and you'll have the side weights if ever needed.

Shocks build with 6x1.2 front with oils from 40-45 range, 6x1.3 rear with oils around 37.5-42.5 range. (no sways) blue springs front and rear are awesome. Pack is nice on rears, but if you need a touch more just use 6x1.2 all the way around. We have a huge triple and this setup does just fine and feels great on the rest of the track.

One must have upgrade.. aluminum steering horn. The plastic will strip first impact. The alum hoops and other items are bling iMO, just be careful when you pull the diff in and out.

This setup is dialed.. LINK

Last edited by 8ight-e; 01-26-2013 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
10k fluid front and rear diff is awesome.

keep a set of the rear diff braces or swap to aluminum, plastics will break at some point. I'd keep the plastic rear side braces, I'd keep the stock shock towers. The rear skid weight is the only must have, but if you don't mind spending money get the 3 piece kit and you'll have the side weights if ever needed.

Shocks build with 6x1.2 front with oils from 40-45 range, 6x1.3 rear with oils around 37.5-42.5 range. (no sways) blue springs front and rear are awesome. Pack is nice on rears, but if you need a touch more just use 6x1.2 all the way around. We have a huge triple and this setup does just fine and feels great on the rest of the track.

One must have upgrade.. aluminum steering horn. The plastic will strip first impact. The alum hoops and other items are bling iMO, just be careful when you pull the diff in and out.

This setup is dialed.. LINK
Link doesn't appear to work.

Also, is everyone just drilling out the pistons with a 1.3mm drill bit? What did you find was the difference when you went from 6x1.2 to 6x1.3? And how did you change the oil when going from 1.2 to 1.3? Thanks.
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