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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 01-17-2013, 10:26 PM
  #11926  
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Will any 12mm sized bladders fit the big bore shocks? Are the 12mm bladders for the tlr22 (tlr5089) work ok?
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:35 PM
  #11927  
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Originally Posted by MySlowZ
Will any 12mm sized bladders fit the big bore shocks? Are the 12mm bladders for the tlr22 (tlr5089) work ok?
hey i never thought about that?! i think i have some spares ones from my old 22 so i can try tomorrow.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:35 PM
  #11928  
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Originally Posted by MySlowZ
Will any 12mm sized bladders fit the big bore shocks? Are the 12mm bladders for the tlr22 (tlr5089) work ok?
22 bladders will work just fine
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:30 AM
  #11929  
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Originally Posted by flame56mx
Stock ones, you can use the blanks that come with the kit, or I usually plug with Ca and toothpick, and drill the unplugged holes to size..
ok cool..i kinda alreay used the blanks and drilled them out to 4 hole...2 holes at 1.6 and 2 holes at 1.02



Originally Posted by symmetricon
If you are running 6 hole 1.4 in your 210, your track must be pretty loose and bumpy, much like mine. My 210 is dialed at my track, but am working on my 410. Im currently using 2hole 1.7mm front and 3hole 1.75mm rear. Still playing with oils, I suspect if your track is like what i think, 2hole 1.7 in the rear will be pretty stiff and overpack through the rough stuff.....
the tracks i run at are pretty smooth overall...i just like the way this setup feels.i have tride alot of different pistons n oils...i like running the 6 hole 1.4 with losi 35 in the back and losi 37.5 in the front....would like to get my car a little more responsive..so for this week i dropped to losi 32.5 in the back and losi 35 in the front.

my 410 had like 4 hole 1.3 in the front with 35 oil and 6 hole 1.3 in the back with 32.5 oil.i wanted to get the car a little more responsive..so i thought i would try the same piston n oil as my 210...rear shocks feel great...front shocks are really light...like no pack...lol
was thinking of going to a 1.2 6 hole with 35 oil and go from there
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:23 AM
  #11930  
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Originally Posted by morris
out of curiousity...now that i have my 210 pretty close..i am starting to work on my 410.i normally run the same pistons in both my cars.so in my 210 im running 6 hole 1.4 and i like that setup so far..i did the same in my 4 wheel and it feels way to soft....(will chassi slap very easily)
what are alot of you guys running piston/oils/springs?
Originally Posted by flame56mx
I am running 1.6x2 frt, and 1.7x2 rear with 35wt in all four..
Originally Posted by symmetricon
If you are running 6 hole 1.4 in your 210, your track must be pretty loose and bumpy, much like mine. My 210 is dialed at my track, but am working on my 410. Im currently using 2hole 1.7mm front and 3hole 1.75mm rear. Still playing with oils, I suspect if your track is like what i think, 2hole 1.7 in the rear will be pretty stiff and overpack through the rough stuff.....
This combo works awesome on the big bores.. 1.2x6 front w/ 45wt oil (losi), 1.3x6 rear w/ 40wt, buggy was mostly on rails.. see prior link to a run. High bite w/ some big jumps, several elevation changes. Dk blue front, light green rear for springs. I usually set rebound around 1/2 on the front and 25% on the rear. Could go w/ slightly lighter oils if you are on real rough stuff and don't have any really big jumps, but this is the ticket for my local tracks.. clay and carpet.

The 210 (rm3) works great w/ 1.2x6 rear w/ 40wt to have the pack I need for our triple.. a 1.2 w/ 4-5hole would also be nice (plugged) but you would need to reduce oil weights some. Id suspect the mm would need a little less.
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:23 AM
  #11931  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
This combo works awesome on the big bores.. 1.2x6 front w/ 45wt oil (losi), 1.3x6 rear w/ 40wt, buggy was mostly on rails.. see prior link to a run. High bite w/ some big jumps, several elevation changes. Dk blue front, light green rear for springs. I usually set rebound around 1/2 on the front and 25% on the rear. Could go w/ slightly lighter oils if you are on real rough stuff and don't have any really big jumps, but this is the ticket for my local tracks.. clay and carpet.

The 210 (rm3) works great w/ 1.2x6 rear w/ 40wt to have the pack I need for our triple.. a 1.2 w/ 4-5hole would also be nice (plugged) but you would need to reduce oil weights some. Id suspect the mm would need a little less.
i appreciate the info as im sure everyone else does.
i ended up just leaving the 6 hole 1.4 in for now with 45 oil in it.i will find out first thing tomorrow morning how it works.
i chose to go that route with the cuz it just felt planted like that.
could possibly like more weight transfer in the front though.

on my 210 im also been playing with the 22 springs...same with the 410.
the 210 im using orange front and pink rear..the 410 im trying 22t front silver n gray rear...im using the 22t front sping cuz im running older shock shafts...so i basically just have more droop than the stock v3 shaft.
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:26 AM
  #11932  
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Originally Posted by morris
i appreciate the info as im sure everyone else does.
i ended up just leaving the 6 hole 1.4 in for now with 45 oil in it.i will find out first thing tomorrow morning how it works.
i chose to go that route with the cuz it just felt planted like that.
could possibly like more weight transfer in the front though.

on my 210 im also been playing with the 22 springs...same with the 410.
the 210 im using orange front and pink rear..the 410 im trying 22t front silver n gray rear...im using the 22t front sping cuz im running older shock shafts...so i basically just have more droop than the stock v3 shaft.

NP, ill post my setup sheet after the next race,, just trying a couple things.

my dex210 is super dialed on dark greeen front, dark red rear with the pistons and oils mentioned above. RM3

*note w/ the dex210 make sure at full droop on the rear there is no vibration, keep reducing until it is smooth. Buggy acts very odd with too much rear droop and the vibrations are not good for it, can do some real damage or at the very last add to wear if you are on the throttle in air a lot.
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:36 AM
  #11933  
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Hi

Anyone know were to buy the DMX410 chassis conversion set from Motogo Seiki ?
Tried Rc-champ , Bansaihobbies and Rdvtg but no help from them..
Also tried a french company, but they did not ship to Norway
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:18 AM
  #11934  
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Originally Posted by Boadazofa
I am running the 2010 model on carpet (small bore shocks) i had a traction roll problem, to fix it i went next rate up springs and added more negative camber in the rear (2 degrees total)!
no more traction rolling now! Just try the camber first you will be suprised at how much difference it makes!
it will also depend on what tires you run, fronts i have aka rebars and rears i have proline holeshots! Running pins on the front made it way to aggressive for me!
Originally Posted by MySlowZ
Have a couple of questions. I keep breaking rear arms (mild crashes). I notice there's quite a bit of play (inner hinge pin). So I added 1 1mm plastic shim to tighten up the slop. Will this help or make it worse (haven't tried it yet)? Second, I'm running on carpet and the car traction rolls easily. What suggestions can I do to prevent this? I already trimmed down steering travel The car has a stock set up dex410v3. Thanks
I mostly run on carpet with my DEX410. First thing I'll say is not all carpets are created equal. The local track has carpet with SOOOOO much traction, that no matter what you do, you can not eliminate traction rolling unless you literally run down your tires on a belt sander and trim two rows of pins off the outside edge of the fronts. Once they're down (66% gone), they take about 2 packs to become useful, then you have about 5 packs of good solid runs, followed by another 2 or 3 packs of decent runs with the use of traction compound. Past that point, they just don't have enough grip.
At some of the other tracks, the carpet has less traction. New tires can be scuffed in with about 2 packs, and the car won't be so tippy if its lowered enough and you cut two rows off the front..

I find that there's one real truth about running on various carpet tracks - its always a compromise between the car's ability to either corner well (not traction roll or hook and wash out) or jump and land well.
On some of the layouts, with newer tires I have to run dangerously low ride height and limited droop to cope with the extra traction. Others I can raise the car and add some droop and it will jump and land well and still make decent corner speed. Even a changed layout on the same carpet will see me make changes to ride height and droop.

Other options for dealing with traction roll is to change your roll centers and your sway bars. It will always come down to your tire's condition and the amount of traction on your particular carpet. Reference the Hudy setup guide to see how roll center and ride height affects the handling of your car.

If you want to keep your car as consistent as possible for as long as possible, I have a solution. Instead of owning one or two sets of tires and wearing them out, try getting several sets of tires at the same time. I currently have 6 sets. Change them every time you run the car and you will be more consistent. Just watch out for those serrated wheel nuts!!! Changing tires often will chew the rims and eventually the serrations will no longer grip the mangled plastic. Keep that in mind.

My basic setup for carpet came from Jorn Neumann's high traction carpet setup... but as I mentioned I had to modify it to suit my tires (schumacher pins in yellow) and driving style.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...und2012042022/
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:33 PM
  #11935  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
NP, ill post my setup sheet after the next race,, just trying a couple things.

my dex210 is super dialed on dark greeen front, dark red rear with the pistons and oils mentioned above. RM3

*note w/ the dex210 make sure at full droop on the rear there is no vibration, keep reducing until it is smooth. Buggy acts very odd with too much rear droop and the vibrations are not good for it, can do some real damage or at the very last add to wear if you are on the throttle in air a lot.
again thx....i got my 210 pretty close to dialed.i run on low bite tracks...a couple medium bite tracks..i like the way it works.
im going to a big race tomorrow and i will be doing alot with the 410.if i find something that i really like i would be more than happy to post up a set-up.same with my 210...also running rm3...i think that the set-up i have on it now will be dialed...but sometimes i think wrong...lol
will post more info tomorrow at the track.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:37 PM
  #11936  
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Originally Posted by ridgeracer
Hi

Anyone know were to buy the DMX410 chassis conversion set from Motogo Seiki ?
Tried Rc-champ , Bansaihobbies and Rdvtg but no help from them..
Also tried a french company, but they did not ship to Norway
MD2 out of France is the only place I know of right now......
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:06 PM
  #11937  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
MD2 out of France is the only place I know of right now......
Yes that was the french company I tried ..
Really would like to try that chassis.
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:21 PM
  #11938  
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Originally Posted by ridgeracer
Yes that was the french company I tried ..
Really would like to try that chassis.
8-racing makes some pretty sick stuff for the durango cars
check them out here..its all in german..but you still can see the pics...e-mail martin for any questions you have.

http://www.8-racing.de/
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:56 PM
  #11939  
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For those of you running a RSPro with a 6.5 or 7.5 what pinion and spur sizes are you using and what settings on the esc, I'm having heat issues
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:23 PM
  #11940  
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Originally Posted by jckitty
For those of you running a RSPro with a 6.5 or 7.5 what pinion and spur sizes are you using and what settings on the esc, I'm having heat issues
I'm running my rs pro with LRP X20 6.5t and 21t pinion. Using Randy's profile found @ tekins website. It's a good starting point, only thing I've changed was the current limiter settings. No heating issues after 10 min of practice @ the track. Have you tried cutting holes on the body to allow more air to flow through?
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