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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 01-17-2013, 08:45 AM
  #11896  
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Finally got rid of my traction rolling issues... Car feels way more planted and can carry more speed coming into and out of turns. Speaking of shock bladders, which ones fit the big bore shocks (part #)? Do you notice a difference using bladders compared to without? I'm guessing the shocks would feel more consistent using bladders?
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:26 AM
  #11897  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
How do I get more bite in the rear? It seems when I try to power out of corners I just spin out. I also want to lock in the rear a bit more. It has a ton of steering I am running my dual rate at 120.
You can't really power out of the corners and expect to not spin out. This car requires a bit of finesse when it comes to throttle control in the corners. Wait until the car is straight before you hit full throttle.
One thing that helps is a light diff fluid in the rear. Try 2k.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:50 AM
  #11898  
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Originally Posted by MySlowZ
Finally got rid of my traction rolling issues... Car feels way more planted and can carry more speed coming into and out of turns. Speaking of shock bladders, which ones fit the big bore shocks (part #)? Do you notice a difference using bladders compared to without? I'm guessing the shocks would feel more consistent using bladders?
So ultimately, what did you do to solve your traction roll issues? Change in tires, droop, camber, all the above or something else?

Interested in the big bore bladder part number as well. I've always run bladders in all my 1/8 scales and shocks are always consistent. Interestingly, I run my 1/10 scale shocks as emulsion only because I haven't had the chance to run them any other way.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:57 AM
  #11899  
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Originally Posted by jha07
You can't really power out of the corners and expect to not spin out. This car requires a bit of finesse when it comes to throttle control in the corners. Wait until the car is straight before you hit full throttle.
One thing that helps is a light diff fluid in the rear. Try 2k.
The ability to power out of corners really depends on traction, car setup, and esc settings. You can get on the throttle earlier than you might think and not spin out if you have all three dialed in.

Study Jorn driving his DEX410, he is driving insanely hard from mid to exit in every corner and not loosing traction.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgf7nvsrFb4
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:15 AM
  #11900  
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Originally Posted by SEF
So ultimately, what did you do to solve your traction roll issues? Change in tires, droop, camber, all the above or something else?

Interested in the big bore bladder part number as well. I've always run bladders in all my 1/8 scales and shocks are always consistent. Interestingly, I run my 1/10 scale shocks as emulsion only because I haven't had the chance to run them any other way.
Basically shaved off 1 row inner and outer pins of front tires. Added more droop at the rear. Removed both fr & rr swaybars. Ran the 1* toe and 2* camber. Might try changing the diff oil at the back later on, but for now this setup suits me fine. Best part is I didnt break a single thing.

By the way what is emulsion? Is this some sort of aftermarket shocks or a way of setting up your shocks?
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:26 AM
  #11901  
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Default This is my first BUGGY!

As mentioned a DEX410 V3 is on the way and I'm waiting patiently. In the meantime...

after reading the first 150 posts on this forum it seems the common problems inherent to this buggy are:

Leaky Diffs remedied by Kyosho P5 rings:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-P5-Orange-10

Broken Servo saver arm remedied by aluminum version:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ervo-Saver-Arm

Greater rear traction and rear skidplate becoming a dirt shovel remedied by adding more weight using:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ing-Weight-Set

Is this all I need to build a reliable buggy?

Thanks in advanced.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:27 AM
  #11902  
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Originally Posted by MySlowZ
Basically shaved off 1 row inner and outer pins of front tires. Added more droop at the rear. Removed both fr & rr swaybars. Ran the 1* toe and 2* camber. Might try changing the diff oil at the back later on, but for now this setup suits me fine. Best part is I didnt break a single thing.

By the way what is emulsion? Is this some sort of aftermarket shocks or a way of setting up your shocks?
Emulsion is just a mixture of two different fluids. In the case with shocks, those fluids are shock oil and air. Since stock shocks don't have bladders, when you set them up, they naturally have air in the shocks.

When you run a shock with bladders, you can make the shock more air tight and you are able to separate the air from oil within the shock by using the bladder.

There are actual pros and cons to both setups.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:28 AM
  #11903  
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Originally Posted by SEF
The ability to power out of corners really depends on traction, car setup, and esc settings. You can get on the throttle earlier than you might think and not spin out if you have all three dialed in.

Study Jorn driving his DEX410, he is driving insanely hard from mid to exit in every corner and not loosing traction.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgf7nvsrFb4
The end of that race is amazing. I have watched it before. So skilled.

But that is what im talking about Mid corner to Exit corner on power is really really bad. Seems to have traction everywhere else. I need to work on this car a bit more. Its not subtle and controllable it kicks out really fast.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:30 AM
  #11904  
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Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel
As mentioned a DEX410 V3 is on the way and I'm waiting patiently. In the meantime...

after reading the first 150 posts on this forum it seems the common problems inherent to this buggy are:

Leaky Diffs remedied by Kyosho P5 rings:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-P5-Orange-10

Broken Servo saver arm remedied by aluminum version:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ervo-Saver-Arm

Greater rear traction and rear skidplate becoming a dirt shovel remedied by adding more weight using:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ing-Weight-Set

Is this all I need to build a reliable buggy?

Thanks in advanced.
The p5 o rings are not needed, the stock o rings in the v3 work very well. Get an aluminum servo arm, and the aluminum rear diff hoop.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:39 AM
  #11905  
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Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel
As mentioned a DEX410 V3 is on the way and I'm waiting patiently. In the meantime...

after reading the first 150 posts on this forum it seems the common problems inherent to this buggy are:

Leaky Diffs remedied by Kyosho P5 rings:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-P5-Orange-10

Broken Servo saver arm remedied by aluminum version:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ervo-Saver-Arm

Greater rear traction and rear skidplate becoming a dirt shovel remedied by adding more weight using:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ing-Weight-Set

Is this all I need to build a reliable buggy?

Thanks in advanced.
My only advice to the build is to use a little thread-lock on every bolt that threads into aluminum. But not too much or it can be a major pain to remove.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:10 AM
  #11906  
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Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel
As mentioned a DEX410 V3 is on the way and I'm waiting patiently. In the meantime...

after reading the first 150 posts on this forum it seems the common problems inherent to this buggy are:

Leaky Diffs remedied by Kyosho P5 rings:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-P5-Orange-10

Broken Servo saver arm remedied by aluminum version:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ervo-Saver-Arm

Greater rear traction and rear skidplate becoming a dirt shovel remedied by adding more weight using:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ing-Weight-Set

Is this all I need to build a reliable buggy?

Thanks in advanced.
You don't need the P5's for the seals. The V3 comes with the improved DNX O-rings.

Aftermarket Red locktite for CVD set screws. Blue everywhere else. Some Parts worth getting

TD310208 R Diff Loop
TD320007 Brass Skid Plate 30g weight
TD330311 Servo Saver Arm
Aluminum Servo Arm for your Servo.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:12 AM
  #11907  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
The end of that race is amazing. I have watched it before. So skilled.

But that is what im talking about Mid corner to Exit corner on power is really really bad. Seems to have traction everywhere else. I need to work on this car a bit more. Its not subtle and controllable it kicks out really fast.
What's your setup and what type of track?

You might be able to find a good baseline setup for your type of track on petitrc or on durango's site.

But like I said, to be able to get on throttle out of corner a little earlier and more aggressively, you need traction (ie the right tires), a good car setup that distributes the weight between front and rear tires appropriately without loosing traction mixed with good throttle control, and esc settings (I use current limiting and a linear throttle on my Tekin).
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:31 AM
  #11908  
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Sef>>> Thanks for the explanation. I always perceived that air in the shocks was a bad thing? From the design of the shocks, it looks as it would have alot of air in them. I wonder why Durango never used them..., better perhaps?
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:57 AM
  #11909  
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Originally Posted by MySlowZ
Sef>>> Thanks for the explanation. I always perceived that air in the shocks was a bad thing? From the design of the shocks, it looks as it would have alot of air in them. I wonder why Durango never used them..., better perhaps?
Many 1/10 scales have been using emulsion style shocks for a long time. When 0 rebound is what you are looking for, emulsion is a good way to go. Emulsion can also give you a little more traction in certain circumstances.

You can get more consistent shock action with bladder style shocks. The problem with them in lighter cars is that the bladder flexes on every shock stroke. This can sometimes lead to an inconsistent rebound or ultimately less traction. This is why most companies are going towards stiffer bladders or some type of foam in between the bladder and shock cap to keep the bladders from deforming.

I haven't run my 1/10 scales in both ways to actually feel the difference. I've experimented more in my SC truck and 1/8 scales, but these are much heavier vehicles. So if you are looking for 0 rebound and you can build your emulsion style shocks consistently, then emulsion style would probably be the way to go, but I would like to test this out to come to this conclusion myself.
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:16 PM
  #11910  
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Bladders for anyone interested http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...-sd020070.html
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