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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-18-2012, 11:35 AM
  #11251  
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Originally Posted by Coolza
Every setup seems to feel the same, TONS of steering and no rear traction. Yank the trigger and the rear end will spin around with ease. BTW, i am an aggressive driver.
The car has a ton of steering naturally built into it. So the key is to find a balance between that and rear stability.

What diff oil weights have you tried? Building them correctly, full of oil is critical to the cars handling. This is more so than building a ball diff in my opinion.

This car is not a ham fisted 4wd buggy. It must be driven with precision and control. This is mostly due to the gear diffs. The car will be fast when setup properly and driven with respect for the razor sharp steering.

Post your setup, pictures of your track, what tires are working there and I'm sure between the guys that are on this board and myself we can sort you out with a good setup.
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:13 PM
  #11252  
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Randy,

I run at Mikes so you can give me an idea on setup after the weekend. I know it's SCT only, but my best luck on that dirt has been Blue Barcodes/M4 Square Fuzzies. I'll post my current setup when I get home.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:08 PM
  #11253  
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Randy,

I have tried, 10/7, 20/20, 20/10, but now i have 10/5 and it seems to have helped. The biggest thing i tried today was to give my car more droop. I went in on my front shocks and removed my droop screws completely. Track i am running on is not in anyway smooth but is med/wet clay. the car was not keeping the tires on the ground enough. I now have my balance alot better and am 1/10's diffrence per lap time instead of seconds.
Now i just need it to have a bit more forward bite but that is the track condition. I am running on a different track tomorrow and i think i will see a huge difference.

Thanks

Coolza
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:58 PM
  #11254  
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Here's my current setup.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15100394/Ale...bby%20Shop.pdf
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:49 PM
  #11255  
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I'm thinking about getting a DEX410V3, my only question is that I've heard that some saddle packs don't fit. I've been trying to find a spec for battery compartment and can't. Would like to know if Turnigy saddle packs would fit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:52 PM
  #11256  
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Originally Posted by Rich68
I'm thinking about getting a DEX410V3, my only question is that I've heard that some saddle packs don't fit. I've been trying to find a spec for battery compartment and can't. Would like to know if Turnigy saddle packs would fit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
Turnigy 5100's fit with no issues..
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:52 PM
  #11257  
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Originally Posted by Rich68
I'm thinking about getting a DEX410V3, my only question is that I've heard that some saddle packs don't fit. I've been trying to find a spec for battery compartment and can't. Would like to know if Turnigy saddle packs would fit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
Turnigy saddles fit as well as any other that is 25.1mm or shorter . I run Turnigy Nano Techs in mine .
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:57 PM
  #11258  
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Originally Posted by Briguy
Turnigy saddles fit as well as any other that is 25.1mm or shorter . I run Turnigy Nano Techs in mine .
Thank you guys for the answer, Tekin RS Pro combo should finish it out nicely. I'm ordering it tomorrow.
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:43 PM
  #11259  
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Does anyone try thinner oil front and thicker oil rear? That should calm the rear at corner entry right? Assuming there is traction.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:07 AM
  #11260  
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I had a rear ring gear strip on me. It was a strange deal. I had it shimmed tight and had just checked it to confirm the mesh. What was weird is it looks real good except for a tiny section of about 5 teeth that chipped off. From what I can tell it would be more of a material giving way rather then a flex\shimming prolblem.
I am getting ready to replace it and am curious if the machined ring gears are worth the money?
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:39 AM
  #11261  
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Originally Posted by hobdog
I had a rear ring gear strip on me. It was a strange deal. I had it shimmed tight and had just checked it to confirm the mesh. What was weird is it looks real good except for a tiny section of about 5 teeth that chipped off. From what I can tell it would be more of a material giving way rather then a flex\shimming prolblem.
I am getting ready to replace it and am curious if the machined ring gears are worth the money?
The machined ring gears are worth to invest, I installed both front and back and it runs good!
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:47 AM
  #11262  
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Hey guys. Santa is getting a bonus for this xmas, so i'm getting a 410
I'm not a great racer, nor i look forward to become world champion, i just want a good setup. with that in mind, I have a Castle Sidewinder SCT that it's unused. would this be a good motor for the 410? or wich motor/esc combo do you recomend? also, wich servo do you recomend? i'm thinking in a Savox SC-1258TG

cheers
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:51 AM
  #11263  
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Originally Posted by hobdog
I had a rear ring gear strip on me. It was a strange deal. I had it shimmed tight and had just checked it to confirm the mesh. What was weird is it looks real good except for a tiny section of about 5 teeth that chipped off. From what I can tell it would be more of a material giving way rather then a flex\shimming prolblem.
I am getting ready to replace it and am curious if the machined ring gears are worth the money?
You can't shim these diffs tight. If you do, you will feel the high spot as it rotates. Sounds like the high spot is what came apart on yours. If you feel the high spot when rotating, the diff is shimmed too tight. Shim it until you feel the high spot and then start removing shims until it goes away.
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:27 AM
  #11264  
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Originally Posted by hobdog
I had a rear ring gear strip on me. It was a strange deal. I had it shimmed tight and had just checked it to confirm the mesh. What was weird is it looks real good except for a tiny section of about 5 teeth that chipped off. From what I can tell it would be more of a material giving way rather then a flex\shimming prolblem.
I am getting ready to replace it and am curious if the machined ring gears are worth the money?
Any chance you can post a picture of the ring gear, specifically with it open/apart. thx
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:44 AM
  #11265  
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
If the issue you're having is on power rear bite try going to a softer rear spring, removing the rear side weights, keep the skid, try going to 12,500 front oil and maybe raising your ride height to 20f and 21r. I always run the front 1mm lower than the rear.

While watching the car you're looking to gain rear weight transfer.

I've been to mikes and I know the traction can vary depending on the moisture. I had good luck with Panther Rattler 2.0's in Clay when it's damp and Super Soft when it's dry. Don't be scared to go to an open cell rear insert either.
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