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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 09-27-2012, 04:03 PM
  #11116  
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we have been using two pieces of carbon fibre to go under the wing mounts and also above this strengthen the wing near the mounts and i have currently been running the same 410 wing for the last 6 months now and still not ripped anywhere and its clear not painted at all

as i said two thin carbon fibre plates about 1/2 inch longer then the mounting holes for the wing and drill and screw though both plates with wing between them , works a treat

also yes not crashing helps alot thats for sure and i agree i set goals as well when practising and our normal races are 15 to 17 laps long so i set a 20 lap goal and listen for times and try do every lap with in 1 sec up or down of the lap before , plus practise when no one is there that way when you crash you have to go get your own car , this alone will make you not crash
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Old 09-27-2012, 04:04 PM
  #11117  
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It's not a 5.5... it's a 7.. It's not insanely fast. It's just at a moderate speed...
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:32 AM
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Whats a good starting set up for a small/medium indoor clay track? I was thinking Lutz's Nats setup....thoughts?

Any must have tuning parts that I need to get?
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:51 PM
  #11119  
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Originally Posted by fung_kyle
Are there any way to stiffen lexan wings? watching them bend makes me cringe.

@R.Shackleford

Who wants to crash?
Sand the lexan with scotch brite to "ghost" them. They'll be more flexible and won't break or tear as easy.
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:20 AM
  #11120  
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Would really like some opinions/ sugestions on my problems withe the esc/motors on my DEX410.
Bought the DEX2010 14 months ago and put in a Hobbywing Xerun 120a 2.1 and a Novak Ballistic 6.5.
The car ran and ran with sero problems until July this year and now my motor temp after 8 min is 88 degress celsius. I burned the Ballistic 6.5 and a Trackstar 6.5 before I bought a new Xerun 120a esc and today I think i burned my second Trackstar 6.5 also. I ran 87/20-21 all the time and the speed and acceleration are as the other modified cars at the track.
I`ve tried new bearings and the drivetrain runs very free.
Btw my esc temp was 39 degrees celsius when the motor was 88..
What am I missing ?
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:57 PM
  #11121  
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Originally Posted by ridgeracer
Would really like some opinions/ sugestions on my problems withe the esc/motors on my DEX410.
Bought the DEX2010 14 months ago and put in a Hobbywing Xerun 120a 2.1 and a Novak Ballistic 6.5.
The car ran and ran with sero problems until July this year and now my motor temp after 8 min is 88 degress celsius. I burned the Ballistic 6.5 and a Trackstar 6.5 before I bought a new Xerun 120a esc and today I think i burned my second Trackstar 6.5 also. I ran 87/20-21 all the time and the speed and acceleration are as the other modified cars at the track.
I`ve tried new bearings and the drivetrain runs very free.
Btw my esc temp was 39 degrees celsius when the motor was 88..
What am I missing ?
I've been racing electric for a short time. But, I read this so it might help you (not sure who wrote it):
A motor that is hotter than the ESC means it is under geared and if the ESC is hotter than the motor that means it is over geared.

Under geared, increase pinion size or decrease spur size.
Over geared, decrease pinion or increse spur size.
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Old 09-29-2012, 05:22 PM
  #11122  
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I have a DEX410 2010 spec i built last year. It never really worked very well and I quickly went back to my b44.1. I got it out again and I would really like to get it working. Do any of you have any suggestions for me as to what to do to make it handle? It seems like there's no flex in the chassis? I'm thinking that may be the reason it handles so bad?
Do the plastic side rails make a big differance?
What parts could I replace with the the V3 parts to make it better?

Last edited by CTEKTOOL; 09-29-2012 at 06:10 PM.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:58 PM
  #11123  
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Originally Posted by CTEKTOOL
I have a DEX410 2010 spec i built last year. It never really worked very well and I quickly went back to my b44.1. I got it out again and I would really like to get it working. Do any of you have any suggestions for me as to what to do to make it handle? It seems like there's no flex in the chassis? I'm thinking that may be the reason it handles so bad?
Do the plastic side rails make a big differance?
What parts could I replace with the the V3 parts to make it better?
Depends on what its not doing well. It would help if you can let us know what your current setup is, and what you do/dont like about how the car feels like. The first run on my car felt sketchy, a few small changes and its money, best 4wd Ive driven so far..
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:04 PM
  #11124  
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Originally Posted by CTEKTOOL
I have a DEX410 2010 spec i built last year. It never really worked very well and I quickly went back to my b44.1. I got it out again and I would really like to get it working. Do any of you have any suggestions for me as to what to do to make it handle? It seems like there's no flex in the chassis? I'm thinking that may be the reason it handles so bad?
Do the plastic side rails make a big differance?
What parts could I replace with the the V3 parts to make it better?
If you haven't already... You can downgrade/change to the plastic side rails the V3 or Dex410r have.
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:57 AM
  #11125  
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I just got a new V3 and the build come along nicely except the steering rack, when I have the servo and ackerman assembly in my hand it's smooth but when I install it on the chassis the post that support the servo saver is not align perfectly with the plastic hole of the steering rack, I have to push a little bit on the post for the screw to grip on the post. The effect of this is binding on the assembly, I have order the aluminium rack to hopefully solve my problem, did someone had this problem?
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:04 PM
  #11126  
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Originally Posted by tntpower
I just got a new V3 and the build come along nicely except the steering rack, when I have the servo and ackerman assembly in my hand it's smooth but when I install it on the chassis the post that support the servo saver is not align perfectly with the plastic hole of the steering rack, I have to push a little bit on the post for the screw to grip on the post. The effect of this is binding on the assembly, I have order the aluminium rack to hopefully solve my problem, did someone had this problem?
Mine lined up, but if I remember right, I had some binding if I over tightened the screws on the plastic upper support. Backing off the top screws a bit solved the problem.
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:21 PM
  #11127  
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Originally Posted by tntpower
I just got a new V3 and the build come along nicely except the steering rack, when I have the servo and ackerman assembly in my hand it's smooth but when I install it on the chassis the post that support the servo saver is not align perfectly with the plastic hole of the steering rack, I have to push a little bit on the post for the screw to grip on the post. The effect of this is binding on the assembly, I have order the aluminium rack to hopefully solve my problem, did someone had this problem?
Can you post a pic ?
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:21 PM
  #11128  
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Quick question. Why are the Aluminum diff hoops needed?
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:34 PM
  #11129  
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The stock plastic ones on occasion can snap. I have em on my SC but not on my buggy. Some things others have broken I have not.
When they do snap your rear drive center shaft will come out of the center and fly around.
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:46 PM
  #11130  
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Originally Posted by CTEKTOOL
I have a DEX410 2010 spec i built last year. It never really worked very well and I quickly went back to my b44.1. I got it out again and I would really like to get it working. Do any of you have any suggestions for me as to what to do to make it handle? It seems like there's no flex in the chassis? I'm thinking that may be the reason it handles so bad?
Do the plastic side rails make a big differance?
What parts could I replace with the the V3 parts to make it better?
You should try the plastic side rails and the rear flex brace to give the car a bit of flex. Without knowing what was handling characteristic of car it's tough to say where to start. Try a few online set ups from Lutz using similar surface type as a starting point.
One thing I noticed is this car handles very well but it doesn't suit everyone's driving style.
I have mine set up so it pivots corners easy, slight push out of corners under power but then I never blip my throttle or punch it out of corners. I drive it very linear like a 1/12 pan car. Others that drive my car say it oversteers and they can't get used to it..
Try some set ups as reference points and each time out make only one adjustment as this car reacts to changes easily.
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