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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 09-24-2012, 05:05 AM
  #11086  
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Hi Guys i am sorry if this had been answered but i am new to 1/10 and need to know what motor and speedy to run. I have always ran castle gear in my 1/8 and 1/5 cars but as i said am new to 1/10. I have read that a lot of people in Australia are using the LRP setup but are experiencing hi temps. Is this the same for tekin?? Has anyone ran the new Hacker motor and speedy setups that are available. What motor and speedy do you think guys i was thinking something around 6.5 or is this too high?
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:24 AM
  #11087  
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Originally Posted by ANGRYEVO8
Hi Guys i am sorry if this had been answered but i am new to 1/10 and need to know what motor and speedy to run. I have always ran castle gear in my 1/8 and 1/5 cars but as i said am new to 1/10. I have read that a lot of people in Australia are using the LRP setup but are experiencing hi temps. Is this the same for tekin?? Has anyone ran the new Hacker motor and speedy setups that are available. What motor and speedy do you think guys i was thinking something around 6.5 or is this too high?
I'm in South Florida, USA. Very hot and humid in the summer. I also run on an outdoor track. I am using a Tekin Redline 6.5t with lots of turbo and the gearing is 87/21. My ESC is an RSpro with no temp issues. It's up to the individual to test and tune for temp.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:53 AM
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Hmm ESC wise, I'd go for a Rs Pro as that gives you a lot of headroom tuning and fitment wise. Motor wise, hacker's new line of things look pretty cool! You could also check out trinity D3.5's as well.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:43 PM
  #11089  
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Hey ,My DEX410v3 gets here in 2 days,can't wait.Just started up racing after 9 year hiatus. Have a SC10 4x4.Racing in Fort Myers Fla.Thanks in advance for any info

Dave


in 1990 we ran nicad's that lasted 4.5 min. if we had good matched cells.
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by OldSchoolDave
Hey ,My DEX410v3 gets here in 2 days,can't wait.Just started up racing after 9 year hiatus. Have a SC10 4x4.Racing in Fort Myers Fla.Thanks in advance for any info

Dave


in 1990 we ran nicad's that lasted 4.5 min. if we had good matched cells.
Welcome back to the hobby Obviously , we're going to tell you've made the right choice with this buggy

what electronics are you planning on running ?

When you build, pay attention to the build tips here: http://www.team-durango.com/in-the-pits.php

Use Red locktite on all the CVD pins. On the sun-gears in the diffs, you will have to file down the sides of the hexes to get them to slide in/out easily. They will be a very tight fit out of the box. You need them to slide in/out easily for maintenance.

Get an Alum Servo Saver Arm (from TD, Racers Edge or Tresrey) & an Alum Servo Arm for your Servo of choice. Also Rear Diff Hoop is a good upgrade.

Post on here any specific questions you have and there is a ton of great folks on here ready to help
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:36 AM
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WELL, It seems like I don't know how to mess with a slipper. I build it accordingly to the manual and now it's starting to wobble again with 2 BRAND new ceramic bearings.
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
Welcome back to the hobby Obviously , we're going to tell you've made the right choice with this buggy

what electronics are you planning on running ?

When you build, pay attention to the build tips here: http://www.team-durango.com/in-the-pits.php

Use Red locktite on all the CVD pins. On the sun-gears in the diffs, you will have to file down the sides of the hexes to get them to slide in/out easily. They will be a very tight fit out of the box. You need them to slide in/out easily for maintenance.

:
With the V3 you don`t have to do this . I have built four of them and nothing like the previous versions .
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Briguy
With the V3 you don`t have to do this . I have built four of them and nothing like the previous versions .
Did on mine. Just trying to make the fella aware of potential concerns. So lets just call this step optional
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by fung_kyle
WELL, It seems like I don't know how to mess with a slipper. I build it accordingly to the manual and now it's starting to wobble again with 2 BRAND new ceramic bearings.
have you just rebuilt your car?

1. you will want to ensure that when the whole spur assembly sits on the 2 towers (340019,310156) and with the spur cover firmly secured, the bearings sit snug without slop. if there is slop, it will cause the wobble and may lead to premature bearing failure.

2. this is probably obvious but make sure the set-screw in your slipper assembly is tightly secured with loctite too.
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:09 PM
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The previous owner stripped the screw and it worked but after i unscrewed it yesterday. I will be ordering another one and testing.

Thanks
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:23 PM
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Also, I'm not a hardcore racer, I want to buy a nylon wing. Is there any recommendations for a nylon wing that fits without tinkering?

Thanks
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by fung_kyle
WELL, It seems like I don't know how to mess with a slipper. I build it accordingly to the manual and now it's starting to wobble again with 2 BRAND new ceramic bearings.
Loosen the motor mount screws and re- tighten them down.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Konich
Loosen the motor mount screws and re- tighten them down.
Your so smart...
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by fung_kyle
The previous owner stripped the screw and it worked but after i unscrewed it yesterday. I will be ordering another one and testing.

Thanks
I had my slipper spring fail. It looked like a progressive coil. Definitely not a good spring. Check yours out.
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:40 AM
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Alright i check afterschool today. Anyone running nylon wings? I really want to buy one so it's more durable.

Thanks
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