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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 08-06-2010, 03:25 PM
  #1051  
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Originally Posted by bigBoyBigToy
These are typical temps for the x12 motors !!! they run real hot anyways i ran that motor last year and about 5 other racers in the b44 or the fs didnt matter they would come off anywhere between 150-170-180,also u can turn down the timimng to help bring the temps down. every motor runs different temps but thats great info for a starting point!!
Ok, point taken. I have ordered a heat sink and fan for the ESC, and will just run the motor and assume it OK as long as it's under 180.
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:44 PM
  #1052  
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Originally Posted by rfleck
If anyone has any feedback to help bring hte temps down, it would be much appreciated.
I've had my full spec DEX410 for about a year now. And like you for ages I was fighting the temp beast..
6 months ago I got fed up with running high temps all the time so I sat down to try and sort it out and what I found was there are several areas which may be "binding"
1. CVDs: make sure the threadlock you use isn't causing the CVDs to be even the slightest bit stiff. I currently run a bicycle chain lube in all my cvds. I spray a bit in before each race.

2. Diffs: take them out and turn them with your hand close to your ear. they should run quiet without ANY grinding noise at all. The metal gears take forever to wear down, so any high point will cause heat in your motor and ESC.

3. Spur: I'm not sure how you normally run your mesh in other cars, but In a 44 I would run fairly close tolerances. In the Rango, I run pretty loose.

4. Check bearings regularly

After checking all of these areas meticulously, I now run my Rango with a 21/87 or 22/87 gearing with LRP X12 4.5 & a Tekin RSPro v208.
It's crazy fast, but I can run a whole pack through it and the motor will be about 65ish*C and the ESC will have 6/7 lights flashing occasionally I might catch a glimpse of all 7 lights flashing for a sec then back to 6.
The soldering posts measure high 60*C.

Hope this helps.

PS. It's often said that the Rango is a "noisy" car. If this is the case, then there is some binding going on.
My Rango is now no louder than my B44.

Disclaimer: I'm not suggesting anyone run 4.5T in their DEX410, I just like the amount of power. Most guys I know who own a DEX410 are running 7.5, 6.5 or 5.5 motors..

Cheers
LJ
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Old 08-06-2010, 07:29 PM
  #1053  
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Any build tips not covered on the oople review?
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Old 08-06-2010, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ABBOTT
Any build tips not covered on the oople review?
oople pretty much covered all the "issues" I had. I filed the inside of the diff gears so they would easily press onto the shafts. The bearings for the steering bellcranks are really tight on the shaft as well, I would sand or file the shaft down so the bearings don't get crunchy when they're forced on.
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Old 08-06-2010, 09:38 PM
  #1055  
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Originally Posted by littlejohn
2. Diffs: take them out and turn them with your hand close to your ear. they should run quiet without ANY grinding noise at all. The metal gears take forever to wear down, so any high point will cause heat in your motor and ESC.
Here's crazy old trick from the TC3/TC4 onroad days:
(No I haven't tried it in a durango)

Apply toothpaste to ring and pinion in each gearbox
Hook a charger to a brushed motor that is installed in the car
apply 1-2 volts dc overnight...or as long as it takes to break the gears in
Clean toothpaste out and reassemble


This should make your drivetrain CRAZY free spinning

It used to work anyway....
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Old 08-06-2010, 09:45 PM
  #1056  
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Originally Posted by Matt Howard
oople pretty much covered all the "issues" I had. I filed the inside of the diff gears so they would easily press onto the shafts. The bearings for the steering bellcranks are really tight on the shaft as well, I would sand or file the shaft down so the bearings don't get crunchy when they're forced on.
I just picked up a new post and it fits perfectly. There's a noticeable difference between it and the one included in the kit. Best $2 I've spent
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Old 08-06-2010, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by littlejohn
2. Diffs: take them out and turn them with your hand close to your ear. they should run quiet without ANY grinding noise at all. The metal gears take forever to wear down, so any high point will cause heat in your motor and ESC.
Awesome post, man. Very helpful!

The diff is a big concern of mine. I've been running high temps and I'm worried that I didn't seat the gears properly when I put the diff together. I'm too lazy to take then apart again but I think I'll have to.
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Old 08-07-2010, 12:30 AM
  #1058  
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ANY TIPS ON HOW TO TAME DOWN THE STEERING ON THIS BEAST PLEASE, LOL......
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Old 08-07-2010, 06:36 AM
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I moved the the shocks out 1 hole on the on the front shock tower which tamed it down abit but i'v also gave it abit of toe out, but i haven't had a chance to test that yet.
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Old 08-07-2010, 06:44 AM
  #1060  
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Originally Posted by urismo21
ANY TIPS ON HOW TO TAME DOWN THE STEERING ON THIS BEAST PLEASE, LOL......
sure.. but we need more info..
Is it too twitchy, ie too much initial steering?
Does is turn in nice but wash out mid corner? or does it spin out on corner exit??
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Old 08-07-2010, 07:13 AM
  #1061  
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Originally Posted by MaTt 93
I moved the the shocks out 1 hole on the on the front shock tower which tamed it down abit but i'v also gave it abit of toe out, but i haven't had a chance to test that yet.
Toe out will give you more turn in. So I would give it some toe in. I also would go heavier on the front oil. What are you running for oil and like mentioned what is the car doing............
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Old 08-07-2010, 09:18 AM
  #1062  
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Originally Posted by Matt Howard
So I bought a 410R totally on a whim today I'm here at Hill AFB for a week and decided to stop by Intermountain Raceway to check the shop and track out. I saw the car on a shelf and have spent the rest of the day putting most of it together. I forgot how bad those kit tools are, I didn't round off any screws but my fingers are RAW Still have the diffs and shocks to do, and of course mount electronics. What diff oils are people running for your typical indoor track? Just something to start with is all I'm looking for.
Hey! If you were out there wednesday I was running my Dex. I finally got some laps on it.

The aluminum front hingepin holders are a MUST

IRCR likes Losi BK rears and taper pins in the pink compound. I run pro-line suburb clays also.

I'm running dark green springs front, light green springs rear, losi 25f 30r, rear shocks one out from furthest in, 10k front 5k rear diff... some other stuff I'm sure I'm forgetting but it was pretty hooked up. My rod ends keep popping off though.
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Old 08-07-2010, 10:10 AM
  #1063  
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Im thinking about selling my dex410. It has an orion low profile servo, trandponder, SXX esc and 7.5 motor. I have boxes of parts including a new chassis. Of course its in great shape.

What do you guys think I should ask for it?
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Old 08-07-2010, 12:21 PM
  #1064  
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Originally Posted by infanterene
Im thinking about selling my dex410. It has an orion low profile servo, trandponder, SXX esc and 7.5 motor. I have boxes of parts including a new chassis. Of course its in great shape.

What do you guys think I should ask for it?
Depending on what spares, I would say around $800
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Old 08-07-2010, 12:24 PM
  #1065  
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I'm interested in spares. What do you have to offer?
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