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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 08-05-2010, 06:51 PM
  #1036  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
I think I'll Demel out a small channel and use some shoegoo to keep it in place.
What's "shoe goo"?
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:57 PM
  #1037  
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http://www.amazon.com/Eclectic-Shoe-Goo/dp/B000H6EDOG

Glue with the consistency of gum (horrible description, but it kinda works). Sticks to just about everything, including itself, so it cleans up pretty easily. Like rubber cement.
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Old 08-05-2010, 10:03 PM
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anyone know who has the rear sway bar sets in stock? I've found the bars themselves but not the whole kit with the linkages and stuff.
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Old 08-05-2010, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mdowney
What's "shoe goo"?
- the adhesive of the gods!

but really, its like liquid servo tape
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Old 08-06-2010, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Dlewis4
So... i am considering the 410R as my new winter ride... how does it/or does it even compare to the B44? How do they work on a nice tight indoor clay track?

I am thinkin g about running a 10.5 in it.

Any upgrades needed right away?
Anyone answer these questions for me?

Heavily debating trying the Durango or going with the B44.
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Old 08-06-2010, 08:27 AM
  #1041  
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Originally Posted by Dlewis4
Anyone answer these questions for me?

Heavily debating trying the Durango or going with the B44.
I just sold my B44 yesterday and am probably going to buy a 410R since we just got them in at my shop. I had a full version before, liked it a lot but was just a bit on the stiff side but with all the plastic parts on the R, it should have a lot more flex. And I do run on a small indoor track, 80'x40'. I personally never wanted a 44 because everyone has one (and I am a Losi guy) but it is probably the best choice for 4wd because of the parts support and durability, but now that we carry Durango at my shop, I'm not as worried.

As for upgrades, sounds like the biggest thing is to get the aluminum front hinge pin brace since it sounds like that is what people are breaking, other wise just run it. I never had issues with the stock ball cups with my old car that people are talking about.
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Old 08-06-2010, 09:09 AM
  #1042  
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Originally Posted by Dlewis4
Anyone answer these questions for me?

Heavily debating trying the Durango or going with the B44.
I just blew up a 10.5. To small even for a small track. 9.5 min. I am going to a 8.5 to be safe.


Aluminum hinge pin and carriers, to be safe.
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Old 08-06-2010, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by rfleck
I don't think there are any binding issues. The 9.5T I got off ebay was "suspect". It literally almost would "freespin", so I think it was actually already worn out when I got it. With that 9.5T at my local track I was running pretty much punched everywhere which could also contribute to being too hot. I have a 7.5T with 21 tooth installed now and will test today after work.
How did you make out? Just right? To much, to little. What pinion did you end up with? Also what temp? Thanks........
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Old 08-06-2010, 10:33 AM
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I'm throwing a 7.5 in mine. I hope to get there early Wednesday to see what kinda temps I'm getting with a 21/22.
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Old 08-06-2010, 11:27 AM
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Ok, so I ran the car yesterday. Track conditions were:
Hard packed and dry, Close to 100 degree ambient temperature.

My esc is an LRP SXX "Modified ESC (part number ASCLRP80900) paired with LRP Vector X-12 Brushless Motor 7.5T (part number ASCLRP50662)

I started with a 21/87, and came off with Esc=170 and motor=175. I then geared down to 19 pinion and came off with ESc=155 motor = 165

I do not have a heat sink of any type on either motor or ESC. I think that doing so would be more beneficial than actually changing the gearing much at this point.


Also, I have plenty of holes in the body and have even flared out the area on the front of the body's side pods to act as "scoops" for air.

If anyone has any feedback to help bring hte temps down, it would be much appreciated.
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Old 08-06-2010, 11:29 AM
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I would assume the heavy fluids in the diffs are contributing to that motor heat as well.
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Old 08-06-2010, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
I would assume the heavy fluids in the diffs are contributing to that motor heat as well.
I suppose that is possible. I think gearing any lower will make it suffer on the top end. Dropping teeth on the pinion made a difference, but it is just plain nasty hot here!
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Old 08-06-2010, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by rfleck
Ok, so I ran the car yesterday. Track conditions were:
Hard packed and dry, Close to 100 degree ambient temperature.

My esc is an LRP SXX "Modified ESC (part number ASCLRP80900) paired with LRP Vector X-12 Brushless Motor 7.5T (part number ASCLRP50662)

I started with a 21/87, and came off with Esc=170 and motor=175. I then geared down to 19 pinion and came off with ESc=155 motor = 165

I do not have a heat sink of any type on either motor or ESC. I think that doing so would be more beneficial than actually changing the gearing much at this point.


Also, I have plenty of holes in the body and have even flared out the area on the front of the body's side pods to act as "scoops" for air.

If anyone has any feedback to help bring hte temps down, it would be much appreciated.
These are typical temps for the x12 motors !!! they run real hot anyways i ran that motor last year and about 5 other racers in the b44 or the fs didnt matter they would come off anywhere between 150-170-180,also u can turn down the timimng to help bring the temps down. every motor runs different temps but thats great info for a starting point!!
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Old 08-06-2010, 01:20 PM
  #1049  
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Originally Posted by rfleck
Ok, so I ran the car yesterday. Track conditions were:
Hard packed and dry, Close to 100 degree ambient temperature.

My esc is an LRP SXX "Modified ESC (part number ASCLRP80900) paired with LRP Vector X-12 Brushless Motor 7.5T (part number ASCLRP50662)

I started with a 21/87, and came off with Esc=170 and motor=175. I then geared down to 19 pinion and came off with ESc=155 motor = 165

I do not have a heat sink of any type on either motor or ESC. I think that doing so would be more beneficial than actually changing the gearing much at this point.


Also, I have plenty of holes in the body and have even flared out the area on the front of the body's side pods to act as "scoops" for air.

If anyone has any feedback to help bring hte temps down, it would be much appreciated.
How was the power compared to your 9.5? Was it to much for your track. I am still debating 7.5 or 8.5. Thanks
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
How was the power compared to your 9.5? Was it to much for your track. I am still debating 7.5 or 8.5. Thanks
It had quite a bit more power, but wasn't really overpowered. Most of the gus at my local track are actually suggesting the 8.5. I guess it depends on what you track is like.
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