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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 05-10-2012, 02:27 PM
  #10321  
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i had a dex410 sometime back and sold it. I missed her! So i had to pull the trigger last night and order a dex410V3! #gettingexcited!
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Old 05-10-2012, 02:50 PM
  #10322  
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mdl, I had the big bores on my 210 do the same thing. The problem was excessive clearance between the lower shock mounting bolt and the eyelet on the shock it goes through.
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Old 05-10-2012, 02:53 PM
  #10323  
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Originally Posted by mdl060374
Absolutely loving my V3, no complaints at all. Durable, fast, easy to control, and so far reliable.

However, I have a concern/question about the bigbores.

When they are assembled and mounted, I notice when fully extended, they have a bit of slop or play when I initially begin to compress them. All 4 do it, so:

I am guessing:

1) Its normal and nothing to be concerned about?
2) I did something wrong when assembling them/filling them with oil.
3) the pistons are loose on the shaft (which isnt true, I checked them. 2 guys at my local track asked this..)

Now, when I did assemble them, I initially bled them through the hole (with the screw), but though too much oil leaked out, so I refilled them 100%, and didnt bleed them at all the 2nd time, hoping that would fix the issue. It didnt.

The only thing I can think of is that perhaps there is a suction inside the shock (bladder related), that is causing the oil to vacuum up to the top, leaving some play upon initial compression.

thoughts?

(it isnt a huge deal, but been kind of bugging me so I thought I would ask if any of you experienced this..)
This "slop" , is it when compressing the shocks at first ? If so you have air in the shocks . When bleeding the shocks you should be getting some oil and air . If not you need more oil .
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:04 PM
  #10324  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
i had a dex410 sometime back and sold it. I missed her! So i had to pull the trigger last night and order a dex410V3! #gettingexcited!
Same story here but the v3 lacks alot of alloy parts the older dex410 had! i went ahead and purchased most of them and it got pricey! i shouldve just kept the original
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:19 PM
  #10325  
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Originally Posted by hotdognobun
Same story here but the v3 lacks alot of alloy parts the older dex410 had! i went ahead and purchased most of them and it got pricey! i shouldve just kept the original
Yea, i hear ya! I think I will be ok with those missing alum parts.

which rmp ball cups are you guys using? I want to fix that issue ASAP!

also, does the v3 come with upgraded diff rings? Or do i still need to get the kyosho p5 o-rings?
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:22 PM
  #10326  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
Yea, i hear ya! I think I will be ok with those missing alum parts.

which rmp ball cups are you guys using? I want to fix that issue ASAP!

also, does the v3 come with upgraded diff rings? Or do i still need to get the kyosho p5 o-rings?
Just get the Lunsford kit for it. You won't be sorry. The V3 has the updated rings.
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:30 PM
  #10327  
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Originally Posted by Raul Garcia
Just get the Lunsford kit for it. You won't be sorry. The V3 has the updated rings.
Raul, i have 6 bad habits to support (6 cars). $80 bucks for some ball cups. LOL. I never brake the turnbuckles, so that's not the problem. I just don't like the stock ball cups as they pop off too much. that's all im trying to fix
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Old 05-10-2012, 05:14 PM
  #10328  
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does the RPM cups fit perfectly on the durango turnbuckle?

also, exactly which ball studs needed to complete the build? so far i am reading ASC31281. are these metric and can they replace all of the ball studs? Or will they be too long for a few ball studs to be replaced?

and what's the difference between the short and long ball studs?

thx
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Old 05-10-2012, 07:53 PM
  #10329  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
does the RPM cups fit perfectly on the durango turnbuckle?

also, exactly which ball studs needed to complete the build? so far i am reading ASC31281. are these metric and can they replace all of the ball studs? Or will they be too long for a few ball studs to be replaced?

and what's the difference between the short and long ball studs?

thx
AE has two different height ballstuds- if memory serves the silver are tall and the black are short. They also have different lengths of threaded shank available for each.

Can't help on the RPM ballcups- we're still running the stock ones.
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Old 05-10-2012, 08:00 PM
  #10330  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
does the RPM cups fit perfectly on the durango turnbuckle?

also, exactly which ball studs needed to complete the build? so far i am reading ASC31281. are these metric and can they replace all of the ball studs? Or will they be too long for a few ball studs to be replaced?

and what's the difference between the short and long ball studs?

thx
Yes those are the studs you want, they are metric. Yes the RPM Long shank cups (RPM73392) are what you want and fit fine with the TD turnbuckle.

On my v3 I'm running the stockers so far and they've been good (following the build & maintenance guide from TD's website). I've popped one steering cup off twice but on decent impacts. I may just replace those but everything else has been good.
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Old 05-10-2012, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by teeforb
Yea, i hear ya! I think I will be ok with those missing alum parts.

which rmp ball cups are you guys using? I want to fix that issue ASAP!

also, does the v3 come with upgraded diff rings? Or do i still need to get the kyosho p5 o-rings?
Originally Posted by Raul Garcia
Just get the Lunsford kit for it. You won't be sorry. The V3 has the updated rings.
teeforb: Oh dont get me wrong the v3 out the box is awesome. $80 aint bad for the lunsford kit that also comes with ball studs. buy durango titanium shafts seperately it will cost more

Raul. word on the street you are using Tresrey BB shocks with titanium coated shafts. If true, I heard some mods needs to be done? Im a titanium coated lover
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:24 PM
  #10332  
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Thx guys! After reading the turn buckle post from TD, I'll try and follow that.
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Old 05-11-2012, 12:22 PM
  #10333  
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i asked this before,
how does this effect the car:
10K diff fluid front and rear or 12K front and rear?
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:56 PM
  #10334  
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Finally I was driving my v3 again today. After the bad weather in Germany at the last weekend I hardly couldn't wait.

After work I rushed to the next track (http://www.mrc-senden.de/) and drove battery after battery until 8pm. The surface is eating the tires. After the fourth run I already had bald areas on my Proline Holeshots. Can someone recommend good working long lasting tires for this track?
The last run was already no fun.

This is how I reside at the track:


There is no access to electricity so I use a car battery. I am also the only one with a 1/10 scale car. Everybody else has 1/8 buggies, mostly nitro, but the e's are getting more and more.

Today was really good. No issues with the car, even the bones survived my stupid driving. On good runs I was able to go the speed of most of the 1/8 buggies. So I am really happy about how the car behaves and ignores my noob driving.
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:36 PM
  #10335  
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Anyone running a 8.5 turn ? If so what is a good starting point for gearing ?
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