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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 08-03-2010, 02:11 PM
  #1006  
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on my R, i shimmed the complete center assembly by 1mm, the motor follows since it's on the alu part...i did shim the back tranny ring/holder as well because it would still interfere with the driveshaft. The plastic rings on the shaft are still there as well. Everything is just dandy now!

So no one has tips as to put some sort of lube or something on the turnbuckls?
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:41 PM
  #1007  
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M
Originally Posted by syllag1969
on my R, i shimmed the complete center assembly by 1mm, the motor follows since it's on the alu part...i did shim the back tranny ring/holder as well because it would still interfere with the driveshaft. The plastic rings on the shaft are still there as well. Everything is just dandy now!

So no one has tips as to put some sort of lube or something on the turnbuckls?
There were posts on oOple some time ago about the cups being updated to a stronger material. I ordered new cups and haven't any trouble with them...so far.
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RacersEdge1
Who did you speak with for support through HRP and what store do you order through?
I can't remember exactly.. I want to say Matt?

I work(ed) at Canyon Hobbies, last week was my last week.

He just ended up mailing one from florida to the store, wich is appreciated. It's better than my car sitting in my closet collecting dust. I'm going out to IRCR tomorrow so hopefully I can get some laps on it.
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:56 PM
  #1009  
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Originally Posted by HyperFX
M

There were posts on oOple some time ago about the cups being updated to a stronger material. I ordered new cups and haven't any trouble with them...so far.
so the cups on the 410r need swapped? mine popped on like all others, not easy, LOL.........if they do in fact need swapped out please post the part# for the updated ones please
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:13 PM
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yeah the durango ball cups are shit. There too soft and with the ends open i would imagine it would just promote wear from dust getting in there easier. I got a associated ball stud set and some losi ball cups and now i can adjust without them popping off.
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:14 AM
  #1011  
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Has anyone driven both cars? Wondering if the 410R has more flex then the spec410 kit with all the plastic parts instead of alum.
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Old 08-04-2010, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by grapejuice
Has anyone driven both cars? Wondering if the 410R has more flex then the spec410 kit with all the plastic parts instead of alum.
Based on the fact the R has plastic side guards (instead of aluminum) and rear chassis brace on the R is plastic (instead of carbon fiber), I's have to say yes it has more flex.

I raced mine for the first time this weekend, and DAMN it is strapped!!! Too bad my motor went south. I retired the motor with style, 288F!
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Old 08-04-2010, 07:31 PM
  #1013  
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Originally Posted by rfleck
Based on the fact the R has plastic side guards (instead of aluminum) and rear chassis brace on the R is plastic (instead of carbon fiber), I's have to say yes it has more flex.

I raced mine for the first time this weekend, and DAMN it is strapped!!! Too bad my motor went south. I retired the motor with style, 288F!
Same here. What was it? I was getting 220 for 6 mins. and 25t, and 280 8mins. and it crapped out........Mine was a 10.5. I'm going with an 8.5 now. I think with the oil diffs and heavier car they have to work alot harder.
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:57 PM
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So I bought a 410R totally on a whim today I'm here at Hill AFB for a week and decided to stop by Intermountain Raceway to check the shop and track out. I saw the car on a shelf and have spent the rest of the day putting most of it together. I forgot how bad those kit tools are, I didn't round off any screws but my fingers are RAW Still have the diffs and shocks to do, and of course mount electronics. What diff oils are people running for your typical indoor track? Just something to start with is all I'm looking for.
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:11 PM
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A few of us guys here in stl will be running these indoor and based on a sponsored xray driver who ran this car for the first time at the end of the indoor season he found it best with 20k front and 5k rear front shocks 30 rear 25 also he ran a 6.5 with 18/19 pinion with no over heating..

A 25 pin seems to big i was gonna stArt with a 21-20 for a 7.5... And if u guys r runninf that hot mayb u have some binding issues seems awful hot those temps
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rfleck
Based on the fact the R has plastic side guards (instead of aluminum) and rear chassis brace on the R is plastic (instead of carbon fiber), I's have to say yes it has more flex.

I raced mine for the first time this weekend, and DAMN it is strapped!!! Too bad my motor went south. I retired the motor with style, 288F!
That what I am figuring, just want to see if someone has experience with both cars. I had one but sold it because I needed money at the time but also didn't like how rigged the car drove, had to drive it a lot different then anything else.
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bigBoyBigToy
A few of us guys here in stl will be running these indoor and based on a sponsored xray driver who ran this car for the first time at the end of the indoor season he found it best with 20k front and 5k rear front shocks 30 rear 25 also he ran a 6.5 with 18/19 pinion with no over heating..

A 25 pin seems to big i was gonna stArt with a 21-20 for a 7.5... And if u guys r runninf that hot mayb u have some binding issues seems awful hot those temps
I don't think there are any binding issues. The 9.5T I got off ebay was "suspect". It literally almost would "freespin", so I think it was actually already worn out when I got it. With that 9.5T at my local track I was running pretty much punched everywhere which could also contribute to being too hot. I have a 7.5T with 21 tooth installed now and will test today after work.
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Howard
So I bought a 410R totally on a whim today I'm here at Hill AFB for a week and decided to stop by Intermountain Raceway to check the shop and track out. I saw the car on a shelf and have spent the rest of the day putting most of it together. I forgot how bad those kit tools are, I didn't round off any screws but my fingers are RAW Still have the diffs and shocks to do, and of course mount electronics. What diff oils are people running for your typical indoor track? Just something to start with is all I'm looking for.
for a tight indoor track, I like 10k front and 5k rear. 27W with 2 hole pistons (front) dark green springs, and for the rear 25W with 3 hole pistons light green springs.
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by rfleck
I don't think there are any binding issues. The 9.5T I got off ebay was "suspect". It literally almost would "freespin", so I think it was actually already worn out when I got it. With that 9.5T at my local track I was running pretty much punched everywhere which could also contribute to being too hot. I have a 7.5T with 21 tooth installed now and will test today after work.
lemme know how that 7.5 with the 21 tooth works out please cuz thats what im gonna start with bran new ballistic novak and also using a lrp sxx tc speedo,so good feedback will be appreciated
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:27 AM
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all this crap I keep reading is NOT what I was expecting when I bought this car..........I must admit, Im bummed about it and have'nt even ran it yet......it seem's like it keeps getting worse.
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