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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 04-01-2012, 09:05 AM
  #9886  
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Originally Posted by mdl060374
Well, its been awhile since I got the kit, but finally got the elctronics installed and took it outside on the pavement for a test run. I was very impressed and am looking forward to getting it on the track. It seemed relatively quiet compared to what I was expecting from reading the forums.

However..... One area of concern is that within 2 minutes, the front ballcup came unscrewed to the bolt that holds it to the steering hub (wheel side).. (Luckily I found the gold washer that fell off) so I loctited it down really well.

Round2, same thing happend on the other side within 2 minutes. Unfortuantely I lost the washer this time.

Now is this just a matter of loctiting the hell out of it, and using pliers on the ballcup to get a real secure screw down? (I was hesistant b/c I didnt want to scrape or break the ballcup initially. But bviously I will have to risk it going forward.)

Or is this something that someone has an aftermarket fix for?

(I did notice when building the kit it seemed like not the best way to secure a ballcup since they are made w/o any treads for a wrench to fit on... But I figured it wouldnt be an issue. Looks like I was wrong)

Any advice would be great.
Had the same problem last week, but mine weren't thread locked. Took TQ, was leading with 1 lap and the rear ballcup fell of. Tightend both ballcups in the rear. In the second final I lost the front one... Ran into the pits, retightend it without the washer (lost it) and drove the rest of my heat and still finished 2nd. Fortunately I had no troubles in the last heat and won the heat with 1 lap ahead of the 2nd driver and ended my race with a nice backflip
I was 2nd overal that day. But it's my own fault because I didn't prep my car at all. I've just taken it from the shelf were it sat for 5 months and went racing with it
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Old 04-01-2012, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Jpm1
I've looked but can only find the 2011 setup not 2012.
http://lutzinator.com/wp-content/plu...0Champions.pdf
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jmackani
340071

If you get it, let me know if the 1 degree hub is also on the parts tree.
Don't see stock anywhere. I'm using the small bearing hubs for now but not sure how well those will hold up.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:09 PM
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Has anyone here needed to dial out steering from the car?

I tested every single tire I had for this buggy and ended up with AKA Vector SS all around, yet I'm still -30 on my steering speed. The car just turns, and it's crazy how much it turns.

Also, is the kit shock setup with 35wt oil too light? I'm bottoming out a lot but the buggy is still very fast. Would going to 40wt be enough or do I need to look at different springs?

I'm going to test moving form 3k to 7k rear oil to match the front and see how that feels.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
Has anyone here needed to dial out steering from the car?

I tested every single tire I had for this buggy and ended up with AKA Vector SS all around, yet I'm still -30 on my steering speed. The car just turns, and it's crazy how much it turns.

Also, is the kit shock setup with 35wt oil too light? I'm bottoming out a lot but the buggy is still very fast. Would going to 40wt be enough or do I need to look at different springs?

I'm going to test moving form 3k to 7k rear oil to match the front and see how that feels.
Some of the pro setups run toe-in in the front to reduce the steering.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
Has anyone here needed to dial out steering from the car?

I tested every single tire I had for this buggy and ended up with AKA Vector SS all around, yet I'm still -30 on my steering speed. The car just turns, and it's crazy how much it turns.

Also, is the kit shock setup with 35wt oil too light? I'm bottoming out a lot but the buggy is still very fast. Would going to 40wt be enough or do I need to look at different springs?

I'm going to test moving form 3k to 7k rear oil to match the front and see how that feels.
That was the biggest difference we saw on Cush's car after we switched to big bores- his car handled excellent with the regular but we always struggled to keep the car from bottoming unless he landed perfectly on every downside. Now there is some margin for driver error without upsetting the car on flat landings.

Cush likes to use different inserts to help dial steering in/out. Harder closed cells take some away while he usually gets a more aggressive turn in with a stock/open cell foam.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jmackani
Some of the pro setups run toe-in in the front to reduce the steering.
Alright.

Originally Posted by Jonny5
That was the biggest difference we saw on Cush's car after we switched to big bores- his car handled excellent with the regular but we always struggled to keep the car from bottoming unless he landed perfectly on every downside. Now there is some margin for driver error without upsetting the car on flat landings.

Cush likes to use different inserts to help dial steering in/out. Harder closed cells take some away while he usually gets a more aggressive turn in with a stock/open cell foam.
I have AKA foams in everything mounted. I wouldn't mind going to BB shocks but that's not an option right now.

I won't get a chance to be on track until next Thursday, looks like, so I'm trying to change both cars (210 & 410) this week and hoping I have things sorted well enough to have a good base setup that doesn't need a lot of changes.
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:47 AM
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hi i was going to buy a orion vortex r10 pro 160-2-3s and vst pro 5.5 for my dex410 in mushroomrc.com but they havent 5.5 in stock they only have 4t and i dont know if it will be too much and if will get too hot or buy a 5.5 lrp x20 anybody has tried this two?
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:05 AM
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Default V3 Rear 0deg Hub

Originally Posted by Autocratic
Ok.

Does anyone know what TD# gives you the 0° hubs in the large outer bearing?

340008 - small bearing, no markings on the hubs

Also, are the front steering blocks different or are they all the same?
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD340071
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by onekiwi
Jörn uses the small bore shocks, they are pretty darn good as well
In general, smaller dia shocks have more grip. That is why AE won't release the big bores for the B4.1, cause Cav and Maifield can't get them as good as the stock B4.1 shocks
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by tomi30
hi i was going to buy a orion vortex r10 pro 160-2-3s and vst pro 5.5 for my dex410 in mushroomrc.com but they havent 5.5 in stock they only have 4t and i dont know if it will be too much and if will get too hot or buy a 5.5 lrp x20 anybody has tried this two?
Not sure where you are running but those motors are way overkill. I would look into the 7.5-8.5 range. I personally like Orion motors better. Smoother and less heat......
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:45 AM
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Default STD shocks

Originally Posted by FLHX1550
In general, smaller dia shocks have more grip. That is why AE won't release the big bores for the B4.1, cause Cav and Maifield can't get them as good as the stock B4.1 shocks
I think the FAT shocks calm the handling down, the standard shocks gives the car a super sensitive hyper feel in comparrison. For outdoor clay, I like the FAT shocks. They do bottom out more though. The standard shocks are more responsive and much harder to be consistant with on an outdoor track. IMO.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:00 AM
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Default V3 Hubs

Originally Posted by Autocratic
Don't see stock anywhere. I'm using the small bearing hubs for now but not sure how well those will hold up.
Strangely, the older small bearing hubs had no issues, it was the bearings that would need replacing from time to time.

On the new v3 hubs, I've already cracked the right side, bearings should last longer though. Not sure the v3 is better. TD does'nt even have a part number for the 1 deg. Bearings are $1 and can be found anywhere.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550
In general, smaller dia shocks have more grip. That is why AE won't release the big bores for the B4.1, cause Cav and Maifield can't get them as good as the stock B4.1 shocks
Maybe they should try some Tresrey MOS shocks.... . It's all preference really, Cush's car has been more consistent and easier to drive fast with big bores. He was fast with regulars too though.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dexon555
I think the FAT shocks calm the handling down, the standard shocks gives the car a super sensitive hyper feel in comparrison. For outdoor clay, I like the FAT shocks. They do bottom out more though. The standard shocks are more responsive and much harder to be consistant with on an outdoor track. IMO.
Just saying in general. And given the Reedy race was pretty low bite, that could be why he ran the std shocks
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