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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 01-20-2012, 08:22 PM
  #9151  
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Originally Posted by ozzy-crawl
Thanks again for that, resent message to the sales email and got a reply in 24 hours.
Sweet !
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:25 PM
  #9152  
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Originally Posted by mdl060374
Quick question. I finished building the diff, and the joints/axles that come out of them.
I noticed that in the diagram there is a round plastic "cap" (part # 310039") that is supposed to pressure fit over the axle where the pin fits through. I am guessing that its in case the grub screw comes lose, the pin doesnt fall out.

I cant seem to get the cap on. Is this really necessary to have? It seems as long as you use loctite, it wont be an issue. I dont want to skip this if you reccomend doing it as per the manual.
Yeah thats a pain in the a$$ to get on, it usually splits. Previously I've CA glued it on. Now I just use large heatshrink over the front/rear CVs to keep the pin secure.
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:31 PM
  #9153  
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I tried the oople tip on trimming the inside edge, still could not get the #^* to fit properly. There is 6-7 at my track and they all use heat shrink
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:56 PM
  #9154  
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
Yeah thats a pain in the a$$ to get on, it usually splits. Previously I've CA glued it on. Now I just use large heatshrink over the front/rear CVs to keep the pin secure.
Yeah, I split one of them already.. Heatshrink sounds good.
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Old 01-20-2012, 09:36 PM
  #9155  
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Originally Posted by mdl060374
Yeah, I split one of them already.. Heatshrink sounds good.
I saw one with the tapered cvd boots over it. Looked pretty nice.
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:36 PM
  #9156  
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2 quick questions.

1) When assembling the slipper, the only guide I found was the 410SC which looks similar, but has different parts.
My question is with adjusting it. What is strange is that the part that comes on after the spring (with the grub screw) looks like it needs to be set b/4 you actually install the slipper. If so, how do you adjust the slipper on the fly (or can you?). If not, how do you get it fitting correctly, b/c it seems like it would take alot of finger pressure to get it tight enough to be correctly set, when you finally screwed it down.

(On my old car the Cat SXII, you just tightened a nut down, that applied additional pressure to the spring, once it was already installed.)

2) when shimming, I have no slop on the left/right outdrives at all, but.. the middle outdrive leading to the slipper does wiggle slightly. I made sure it wasnt the joint, but the piece directly attached to the gearbox. I just dont see how making more of a pressure fit b/w the gear will alleviate this correctly w/o making the gears mesh too tightly.. Unless I am messing something and I am supposed to shim that actual shaft in addition to the sides..

Is alittle bit of slop ok? or am I asking for trouble b/4 I even get it out on the track?

thanks for any advice.
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Old 01-21-2012, 02:28 PM
  #9157  
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Originally Posted by mdl060374
2 quick questions.

1) When assembling the slipper, the only guide I found was the 410SC which looks similar, but has different parts.
My question is with adjusting it. What is strange is that the part that comes on after the spring (with the grub screw) looks like it needs to be set b/4 you actually install the slipper. If so, how do you adjust the slipper on the fly (or can you?). If not, how do you get it fitting correctly, b/c it seems like it would take alot of finger pressure to get it tight enough to be correctly set, when you finally screwed it down.

(On my old car the Cat SXII, you just tightened a nut down, that applied additional pressure to the spring, once it was already installed.)

2) when shimming, I have no slop on the left/right outdrives at all, but.. the middle outdrive leading to the slipper does wiggle slightly. I made sure it wasnt the joint, but the piece directly attached to the gearbox. I just dont see how making more of a pressure fit b/w the gear will alleviate this correctly w/o making the gears mesh too tightly.. Unless I am messing something and I am supposed to shim that actual shaft in addition to the sides..

Is alittle bit of slop ok? or am I asking for trouble b/4 I even get it out on the track?

thanks for any advice.
When shimming don't be concerned so much about slop. Assemble the upper and lower gear box halves with the ring and pinion inside. Rotate the center cvd to feel the mesh. If you feel any high spot or notch, then add a shim on the side opposite the ring gear until you no longer feel the notch. If you have any notch feeling in it, it will tear out the teeth.
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:04 PM
  #9158  
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Originally Posted by cm.stites
i hope so also since the email i got back from jconcepts was to use the b44 body instead of saying they were gonna be making one.
If you want to have a cab foward use the kyosho lazer FS shell.. Or don't make the mistake of cutting on the lines, the B44 shell can be a little too short
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jmackani
When shimming don't be concerned so much about slop. Assemble the upper and lower gear box halves with the ring and pinion inside. Rotate the center cvd to feel the mesh. If you feel any high spot or notch, then add a shim on the side opposite the ring gear until you no longer feel the notch. If you have any notch feeling in it, it will tear out the teeth.
Ok, so in both front and back,I feel a slight clicking as the gears turn. Its not any hangups, but its constant throughout the rotation. I figured this was just new gears. Maybe I should try to reshim just ot see the differencce.
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mdl060374
Ok, so in both front and back,I feel a slight clicking as the gears turn. Its not any hangups, but its constant throughout the rotation. I figured this was just new gears. Maybe I should try to reshim just ot see the differencce.
Mine actually sings a song when i push it back and forth! The car is noisy and that is a fact. Since your is new I would follow the advice from the previous post. I would just drive it and change diff fluids often at first as everything get broken in . . .
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mdl060374
Ok, so in both front and back,I feel a slight clicking as the gears turn. Its not any hangups, but its constant throughout the rotation. I figured this was just new gears. Maybe I should try to reshim just ot see the differencce.
If the diffs are out of the car and you feel clicking then it is shimmed too tight. Unlike 1/8 scale, this will break before breaking in.
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by dangerwr
Mine actually sings a song when i push it back and forth! The car is noisy and that is a fact. Since your is new I would follow the advice from the previous post. I would just drive it and change diff fluids often at first as everything get broken in . . .
If yours is noisywhen fully assembled and pushing it, then it has to do with your spur, pinion or gear mesh and not your diffs.
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:28 PM
  #9163  
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Originally Posted by onekiwi
If you want to have a cab foward use the kyosho lazer FS shell.. Or don't make the mistake of cutting on the lines, the B44 shell can be a little too short
Are you useing the kyosho body atm? If so how much room is under there? And could you please post a pic of it to show how it fits?
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:26 AM
  #9164  
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I posted pics earlier

Here
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:53 AM
  #9165  
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My spur area makes a bunch of noise and binds a little when I let off the throttle when the cars in my hand. Does anyone have an idea what this is? It's not my gear mesh.
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