tobamiester

iTrader: (359)

Sweet !

tobamiester

iTrader: (359)

Yeah thats a pain in the a$$ to get on, it usually splits. Previously I've CA glued it on. Now I just use large heatshrink over the front/rear CVs to keep the pin secure.

ozzy-crawl

iTrader: (14)

I tried the oople tip on trimming the inside edge, still could not get the #^*€£ to fit properly. There is 6-7 at my track and they all use heat shrink

mdl060374

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I split one of them already.. Heatshrink sounds good.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

I saw one with the tapered cvd boots over it. Looked pretty nice.

mdl060374

iTrader: (3)

2 quick questions.

1) When assembling the slipper, the only guide I found was the 410SC which looks similar, but has different parts.
My question is with adjusting it. What is strange is that the part that comes on after the spring (with the grub screw) looks like it needs to be set b/4 you actually install the slipper. If so, how do you adjust the slipper on the fly (or can you?). If not, how do you get it fitting correctly, b/c it seems like it would take alot of finger pressure to get it tight enough to be correctly set, when you finally screwed it down.

(On my old car the Cat SXII, you just tightened a nut down, that applied additional pressure to the spring, once it was already installed.)

2) when shimming, I have no slop on the left/right outdrives at all, but.. the middle outdrive leading to the slipper does wiggle slightly. I made sure it wasnt the joint, but the piece directly attached to the gearbox. I just dont see how making more of a pressure fit b/w the gear will alleviate this correctly w/o making the gears mesh too tightly.. Unless I am messing something and I am supposed to shim that actual shaft in addition to the sides..

Is alittle bit of slop ok? or am I asking for trouble b/4 I even get it out on the track?

thanks for any advice.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

When shimming don't be concerned so much about slop. Assemble the upper and lower gear box halves with the ring and pinion inside. Rotate the center cvd to feel the mesh. If you feel any high spot or notch, then add a shim on the side opposite the ring gear until you no longer feel the notch. If you have any notch feeling in it, it will tear out the teeth.

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

If you want to have a cab foward use the kyosho lazer FS shell.. Or don't make the mistake of cutting on the lines, the B44 shell can be a little too short

mdl060374

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so in both front and back,I feel a slight clicking as the gears turn. Its not any hangups, but its constant throughout the rotation. I figured this was just new gears. Maybe I should try to reshim just ot see the differencce.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Mine actually sings a song when i push it back and forth! The car is noisy and that is a fact. Since your is new I would follow the advice from the previous post. I would just drive it and change diff fluids often at first as everything get broken in . . .

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

If the diffs are out of the car and you feel clicking then it is shimmed too tight. Unlike 1/8 scale, this will break before breaking in.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

If yours is noisywhen fully assembled and pushing it, then it has to do with your spur, pinion or gear mesh and not your diffs.

MaTt 93

iTrader: (8)

Are you useing the kyosho body atm? If so how much room is under there? And could you please post a pic of it to show how it fits?

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

I posted pics earlier

Here

D-A-N-4-4

iTrader: (25)

My spur area makes a bunch of noise and binds a little when I let off the throttle when the cars in my hand. Does anyone have an idea what this is? It's not my gear mesh.