dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Words. I have been changing diff fluids at the same frequency. Lately I have beeen changing shock fluids every race but every other race should be fine. The shock fluid is not that dirty but air can (and does) get introduced.
I like to have the best performing shocks as possible and takes little effort between practice runs on race day.

J-Fraz203

iTrader: (7)

lol.....no its been doing this since new.

J-Fraz203

iTrader: (7)

i like to use the team associated diff fluid because they use Lucas oil witch is designed for automotive use and we could never abuse out diffs the way they get abused in a real car...so the lucas shouldn't breakdown but it may collect air or leak out. thats my concern....

cm.stites

i use AE or Mugen diff oils. the losi diff fluids always gave me issues with not lasting a full race weekend before they broke down and needed redone.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Guys,

I have a question that am sure has been answered here before. I have some rear 1 degree hubs from the V3 kit. Which side is which? I a read Durango did something backwards.

Both are marked so ther is a L/R but from which way do you view the car? I was thinking from the rear. Thanks!

andjoh

Is the new V3 kit much better than the old?

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

Looking down from the top of the car with the front away from you is how I do it. The left would go on the driver side and the right would go on the passenger side as if you were sitting in the vehicle. This will give you 4 degrees of rear toe in. I was having problems with rear traction and I remembered on my SCT they were marked backwards. I assumed the buggy was the same. It is not. When I measured I found out with them swapped was only 2 degrees.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

Are you running the emulsion shocks without bladders? They work off of the air from my understanding.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Yes I would agree that emulsion shocks use the aerated fluid to dampen the shock. I have asked numerous times and have been told that these shocks are not emulsion. I manage to keep air out of the shocks but once in a while one shock will aerate so I change fluid often.

Thanks for the help on the rear hubs BTW. Cheers!

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

All the way better.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Guys if you run a shock without bladders in them it's an emulsion shock. You simply cannot have a non bladder shock without ANY air in them and have them compress. You cannot compress shock oil on it's own. Some air must be mixed to allow for shock travel. Bladders allow the air and oil to be separate from each other. This also allows for setting rebound.

For most 1/10 offroad wise emulsion shocks are better. Don't get me wrong I've seen bladder shocks work well for some so to each his own.

I believe the hubs are still labeled to where they must be backward.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the input and always value your knowledge. I was always under the belief that it had to be an emulsion shock. Understanding that oil is essentially an incompressible fluid and that if you were trying to compress the fluid the shock would not budge. But what I believe is that you are passing the oil through the holes in the piston. Please correct me if I am wrong.

And how can I be certain if the hubs need to be opposte from convention? I will look again on the TD website and see if they make any mention of the error. Cheers!

cm.stites

the toe angle will easily be noticable if they are on backwards.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

No worries. On the shocks what you're saying is true since there are holes. But the speed at which you could compress the shock with the little holes is SUPER slow. You can try it on a shock to see my point. Fill it up to the top, dome it on the body try not to spill, Screw on the cap. Now compress the shock all the way and you sill see that the shaft will not go all the way in. .It will hydro-lock near the top. This is what I've seen cause a lot of rear bulkhead issues in regard to breaking them. This also leads to premature leakage and a bouncy car.

If you put a hinge pint into the hub and set the face of the hub onto a flat surface like a setup board you can see which side of the hinge pin is lower. This "lower" side should face to the rear looking at the hubs from the top. Kinda confusing but give it a go.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

My V3 1 degree hubs appear to be labeled correctly in my mind. The label is on the backside of the hub. So looking from the rear of the car to the front, the left one marked left is on the left and the right is on the right. I measured and it's 4 degrees. Now I also noticed the kit also came with the older hubs that will not work with the new larger bearings anyway.