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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 11-29-2011, 05:37 PM
  #8401  
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Originally Posted by RB FIVE
From what i've seen the 210 looks like a POS ! haha. The CR was never known for it's diff but if you built it correctly without a caged thrust the diff was fine.
You are a sad man to troll forums and post smack. Get a life worm and beat it out of this forum.
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Old 11-29-2011, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RB FIVE
From what i've seen the 210 looks like a POS ! haha. The CR was never known for it's diff but if you built it correctly without a caged thrust the diff was fine.
Your still around?, the threads had been so peaceful, but look what the cat dragged in
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JJBTEXAS
I have the screws in the rear and have plenty of droop.

Discovered my second faulty bearing on this kit . its the 5x10x4 in the rear bearing carrier. I would upgrade to the bigger bearing carrier from the V3 but can't find the parts. The first one to go was a 10x15x4. Haven't even run a full pack through her yet .
I had the exact same bearing fail in the same area. Luckily a guy at the track had some losi bearings to spare. I ordered all new bearings, ceramic in the problem areas. My buddy is starting to have the same issue with his bearings as well. Cheap ass bearings. I have never had a bearing fail right out of the box.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by dangerwr
You are a sad man to troll forums and post smack. Get a life worm and beat it out of this forum.
I think he may be breathing too much nitro.
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:49 AM
  #8405  
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I have just purchased the Durango dex410 V3. Have a few 1/8 brushless buggies etc but this is my first 1/10.

Not sure what motor esc to get. I will only be running this car on a medium outdoor track. Main straights 15-20 meters. running 2s 5ooomah. No serious racing. Just racing mates at the track.

I am looking for a motor/esc that will run cool and last long. Not after a 6.5T. Maybe something like 8.5? (what would you guys recommend)

I have had great success with the hobbywing xerun in my other cars so would like to stick with them.

What combos can you recommend for the Durango dex410 V3. as I have no experience with 1/10.

I have always only run sensorless. Is this ok in 1/10 or should I go sensored. (is sensored more complicated) I am looking for plug and play. The programming is easy.

Which combo would you pick out of these.

Xerun

http://www.hobbypartz.com/hoxeco.html

Ezrun

http://www.hobbypartz.com/hoezco.html

Thanks
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:51 AM
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Xerun sensored would be fine, so less cogging. Also this motor is only 3650 in size but the outside size is pretty much the same as a 540 can. kV rating is lesser than those of a tekin rs pro(equal to a (10.5) so no problem in over heating, just make sure to gear it correctly.

Cheers.
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:16 AM
  #8407  
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Originally Posted by dusty sweep
I have just purchased the Durango dex410 V3. Have a few 1/8 brushless buggies etc but this is my first 1/10.

Not sure what motor esc to get. I will only be running this car on a medium outdoor track. Main straights 15-20 meters. running 2s 5ooomah. No serious racing. Just racing mates at the track.

I am looking for a motor/esc that will run cool and last long. Not after a 6.5T. Maybe something like 8.5? (what would you guys recommend)

I have had great success with the hobbywing xerun in my other cars so would like to stick with them.

What combos can you recommend for the Durango dex410 V3. as I have no experience with 1/10.

I have always only run sensorless. Is this ok in 1/10 or should I go sensored. (is sensored more complicated) I am looking for plug and play. The programming is easy.

Which combo would you pick out of these.

Xerun

http://www.hobbypartz.com/hoxeco.html

Ezrun

http://www.hobbypartz.com/hoezco.html

Thanks
I would recommend the xerun sensored. You can then utilise all the latest boost software.
You can get away with the 60a version if you go for an 8.5 motor.
120a would be preferable and indeed necessary if you want to run a lower turn motor.
Pip
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by getpip
I would recommend the xerun sensored. You can then utilise all the latest boost software.
You can get away with the 60a version if you go for an 8.5 motor.
120a would be preferable and indeed necessary if you want to run a lower turn motor.
Pip
I have a couple xerun 60 amp and 2 120 amp esc and I tried to get boost ot work on a tacon 17.5 non sensored motor and it doesnt seem to "boost"

If I understand what your saying is that boost will only work when esc is in sensored mode with sensored motor? Thanks
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:51 AM
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Hey guys,

Finished by rear skid weights. I will have 5 of these available this weekend at trackside hobbies for the Spektrum race. Or PM me if you are interested. These weigh in at 33g. Picture is attached.

Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-img_0357.jpg
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:21 PM
  #8410  
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Originally Posted by TAMAK
Hey guys,

Finished by rear skid weights. I will have 5 of these available this weekend at trackside hobbies for the Spektrum race. Or PM me if you are interested. These weigh in at 33g. Picture is attached.

Attachment 841514
Very nice! I just picked up a Durango piece and amazed how much it helped out
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:03 PM
  #8411  
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Thanks for the replies guys.

So it looks like I will be going for the xerun 120 esc with the 8.5t motor. http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-8-5t-3...-120a-lcd.html

Do you know there is enough space in the Drango Dex410 V3 for the http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-8-5t-3...-120a-lcd.html to fit.
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:17 PM
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Default Battery help

I have 3 different batteries. Protek, Racers edge, and Max amps all with dean's ultra. The max amps has the permanent (or fixed) wires which makes them low enough and flexible enough to fit under this ridiculously tight body. The others use the regular connectors that when plugged into the battery pop up a 1/4" or so before being able to flex them causing issues affixing body? Is the only fix those connectors that go flush into the battery? Are those bullet connectors? Does the gainabull body have the same problem or is it slightly higher in the area of the battery?

THANKS FOR ANY HELP!
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:00 PM
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The body does give some extra room(over5/8 in) in that area but I still solder wires on soild bullets at 90*. Up front its has loads of room. Mounted with Velcro and only the front clip and the body has never come off during a race. Cut the rear body mount off above the circle and leave rear of the body uncut to allow for flexing.[IMG][/IMG]http://[/IMG]

Last edited by ABBOTT; 11-30-2011 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ABBOTT
The body does give some extra room in that area but I still solder wires on soild bullets at 90*. Up front its has loads of room. Mounted with Velcro and only the front clip and the body has never come off during a race. Cut the rear body mount off above the circle and leave rear of the body uncut to allow for flexing.[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
love that body, just wish it were cheaper.
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:34 PM
  #8415  
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Fixed it so they could see the rear mount not cut out. Yeah it looks even better from the front doesnt it!
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