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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 11-07-2011, 07:36 AM
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Do not forget the aluminum servo saver arm (Tresrey), aluminum servo horn (Losi 8ight or new Racer's Edge) and perhaps an aluminum rear diff loop (Tresrey or TD)!
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Old 11-07-2011, 07:54 AM
  #7952  
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Originally Posted by redron123
Im about to pick up a new built but never ran 410R. I really wanted the v3 or the spec but for 200 new with a couple extras cant pass it up. I have never had a 1/10 scale buggy or a durango only 1/8 scale. What is the best set up for electronics and what size motors,batteries and gears do i need? What are must have upgrades and or mods? Thanks.

Make sure your sun gears in your diff slide on to the outdrive Without being forced on! You will prolly have to grind the hex on the outdrive down some to get it to slide on. If you don't you will have two problems-one it will screw uop the tolerances and can cause diff failure. Second it will be very difficult to remove sun gear(prolly will ruin parts trying).

Now most buy the aluminum Treasey diff holders. I have 3 durangos so I didnt want to drop that kinda cash so I Macgyver'd a retainer to hold the top of the ring (epecially in the back diff) from moving forward. Since the battery retainer is held on by diff retainer it all flexes forward especially when braking or lawn darting(happens ) Bad design for sure but with 10 mins in shop you can build retainers.
Also the drive shaft pins seem to love to come out. Do not use durango thread locker-use loctite red or similiar just know u will have to heat it to remove. Clean all parts with contact cleaner(motor spray) and dry before loctiting. Put a slight flat spot on pin where set screw will hit. Make sure set screw hits that during assembly. Finally super glue retainer ring durango supplies over cvd and go drive it!!

I personally like Ryan lutz's setups on Lutzinator.com with heavier diff fluids as it makes car smooth out and less twitchy. Very durable after you fix all the things mentioned in last few posts. Good luck!!
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:12 AM
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Really, I noticed the opposite on the diff fluids. I was running 10/5k and went to 5/3k and the car feels a lot smoother. Just revving the car you can tell that it is less aggressive . . .
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:24 AM
  #7954  
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Originally Posted by dangerwr
Really, I noticed the opposite on the diff fluids. I was running 10/5k and went to 5/3k and the car feels a lot smoother. Just revving the car you can tell that it is less aggressive . . .

I am running 30k f 20 k rear in one dex and it is way smoother than my other dex at 10f 7 r Bear in mind my driving style is not point and shoot as i also race 2wd SC,2wd buggy,stadium truck so i am a momentum style of driver. Most guys i race with that only drive 4wd seem to be point and shoot drivers so they may prefer a different setup. Yesterday I raced 5 classes-2wd buggy,2wd sc,4wd sc,stadium truck and 4wd buggy so I like to make them handle as close to the same as possible(impossible I know lol) as it is very hard to switch. I had 5 mains in a row and it was tough to switch. Once 1/8 buggy gets enough people i will run it also I need a pit crew!!
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by cota4rt
I am running 30k f 20 k rear in one dex and it is way smoother than my other dex at 10f 7 r Bear in mind my driving style is not point and shoot as i also race 2wd SC,2wd buggy,stadium truck so i am a momentum style of driver. Most guys i race with that only drive 4wd seem to be point and shoot drivers so they may prefer a different setup. Yesterday I raced 5 classes-2wd buggy,2wd sc,4wd sc,stadium truck and 4wd buggy so I like to make them handle as close to the same as possible(impossible I know lol) as it is very hard to switch. I had 5 mains in a row and it was tough to switch. Once 1/8 buggy gets enough people i will run it also I need a pit crew!!
Yeah, I tend to be a momentum driver and like to flow lines. I will certainly be sticking with the lower diff fluids--bear in mind I use Losi fluids so do not know how they compare to what you are running.
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by dangerwr
Yeah, I tend to be a momentum driver and like to flow lines. I will certainly be sticking with the lower diff fluids--bear in mind I use Losi fluids so do not know how they compare to what you are running.
I am always amazed when a fellow driver says "man my car was awesome" then i drive it and it sucks for me lol. Then they drive mine and they hate it lol Thats the greast thing is we are all different which is why some of the pro's setups don't work for me.

One would think there wouldn't be much difference between fluids of same weight between different companies but i am sure there is.
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by cota4rt
I am always amazed when a fellow driver says "man my car was awesome" then i drive it and it sucks for me lol. Then they drive mine and they hate it lol Thats the greast thing is we are all different which is why some of the pro's setups don't work for me.

One would think there wouldn't be much difference between fluids of same weight between different companies but i am sure there is.
You are right on both points in my opinion--not every car is suitable for all drivers. I find that people's radio settings throw me off more than their car and maybe there is something to be said for that?

And if manufacters are using the same scale then I am sure the oils are close.
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:39 AM
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http://www.rcrcr.com/index.php?optio...eral&Itemid=46

I use this as a sanity check sometimes if I mix fluids for shock oils.
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by cota4rt
Bear in mind my driving style is not point and shoot as i also race 2wd SC,2wd buggy,stadium truck so i am a momentum style of driver. Most guys i race with that only drive 4wd seem to be point and shoot drivers so they may prefer a different setup.
x1000

this is the biggest difference between the setups with this car.. if your a point and shoot driver, your drivetrain setup is be 100x's different from the momentum guys..

this is the one car i've noticed such a huge discrepancy between drivers with.. incredible how sensitive the car is to its driver. this is why i believe Team Durango have the only true "RACE CAR". of course no car is the same between two drivers but nothing like the DEX is. you really have to practice and setup up the car for you
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:06 AM
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[/QUOTE] this is why i believe Team Durango have the only true "RACE CAR". of course no car is the same between two drivers but nothing like the DEX is. you really have to practice and setup up the car for you[/QUOTE]

They HAD a true race car! The need to fulfill the backorders to HAVE a true race car!

Why is the back orders such a secret?
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:27 AM
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Oy.

Thanks for the good info on oils and such. Swapped out my diffs earlier and going to get a few packs thru it later to see how the car changes going up 1k front and rear.

Agreed on the car suiting people's driving style. A buddy of mine borrowed a DEX410 and didn't like it. He went with a B44.1 which suited him better.
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:05 AM
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Why is the back orders such a secret?[/QUOTE]

i'm not sure what the question is. but if your wondering when they'll be back? im guessing it'll be closer to Dec..

TD is working hard to get the kits/parts out but its not like they're making them themselves. they send them the order and have to wait just like we do..
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:40 AM
  #7963  
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I was talking with someone over the weekend that races the DEX410 and we could not figure out all the hype over the V3. Sounds like the largest upgrade is really the BB shocks and it sounds like the Pro guys run the standard shocks. What I am getting at is I wound buy a DEX410 spec or even the "R" version if I good deal came my wany instead of waiting out the back order or buying a different car.
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:58 AM
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It is nice to see them address issues on the previous cars and while it is not that much different the changes are nice.
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ABBOTT
It is nice to see them address issues on the previous cars and while it is not that much different the changes are nice.
Agreed. They make a really good product that only needed to address a few issues. I believe most would enjoy, and be rather impressed with, any version of this car. Last season I bought the "R" version kit for about $350. I could not justify the price of 2010 spec as I remember it was over $600. I did a few upgrades and was completely happy with the car. I actually prefer to run plastic where I can due to weight and for the fact that aluminum bends whereas plastic will break and is cheap to replace.

By now my car is decked out and probably cost over $1500 but was not required to have a competitive car (minus the driver of course!).

Last edited by dangerwr; 11-07-2011 at 12:25 PM.
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