ajj

iTrader: (18)

I ran my DEX410R for the first time last weekend. The car was absolutely awesome straight from the box, only change I made was 10k/5k diff oils and tresrey CF shock towers. Was consistently a few tenths quicker than the rest of the field.
Only problem I had was the rear diff hoop bent forward after the first run and the diff case rotated up. Popped it back in but it keep bending forward, and the alloy diff hoop doesn't seem to be in stock anywhere...

Konich

iTrader: (9)

<---Has loads of rear diff hoops

WideOpenThrottle RC

iTrader: (86)

I've been doing some reading and checking out setup sheets on the durango website in preperation for the new v3 buggy, am I better off going with the kit setup or starting off with say the Randy Pike setup from Norcal? I'm new to 1/10th but understand suspension tuning and setup but these car's are all new to me. I'm seeing very heavy diff fluids used in the durango setup sheets probably because the guy's are aggressive drivers and there's plenty of traction but the stock setup is waaaay lighter in oil. I don't expect it to be dialed before tailoring it to my driving style but I would like to be in the ballpark.

Here's a link to a thread that has a couple video's of my home track, the first one is a little theatrical so you might be better served checking out the 2nd one
Any help is appreciated.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nebraska...nitro-cup.html

ajj

iTrader: (18)

Says they can't ship to Tasmania

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Never thought those were necessary.

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

if the surface dies out and they don't rewater i would stick with randy's setup for now. Try both, not to hard to do. Lately the #1 change I have been making is lowering and raising the rear roll center based on traction and layout, #2 is rear diff oil.

jessbens

iTrader: (13)

how are u guy's use the ruluxs wheels pic would help a lot.

ajj

iTrader: (18)

My friend who has a DEX410 hasn't had a problem. But after the first 5min run mine had bent forward and the diff had rotated upwards. I kept popping the diff back down but it's got a slight permanent bend now so the diff just keeps popping out and moving up. Still completed the day though and won, but I want to get the alloy hoop before I run it again now.

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

I don't know the reason for those. I have broken 2 front arms (trying to figure out how to make a technical triple jump) and stripped rear wheels (lrp 6.5 son!) But other than that no issues. I would be curious to hear the rational for them...

wyl03

iTrader: (44)

have you tried venom group aust?
they've got their own thread on rctech.
i got my alu diff hoop from them just last month

Chief

iTrader: (14)

Hey guys quick questions:

I ordered my 410 v3 and now I'm buying the goodies to make it go. Any sugestions for the esc and motor? I will be runing the open mod class. Has anyone running the 4 pole castle motors? What is the benifit of a 4 pole anyway? Cant wait to get this thing...in a month. Thank you.

WideOpenThrottle RC

iTrader: (86)

Thanks for the tips, I remember some diff issues on the previous cars which I believe were related to shimming. Previously on my 1/8th scale vehicles I would shim just a little notchy and let them wear in, is that recommended as well for these or should they be shimmed smooth from the beginning?

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

I suggest removing the flashing from the planetary gears *big ones* by sanding with 600 grit on a flat surface. Otherwise that rubs the cross shafts. Shim dry till it's to tight, then back it off 0.1-0.2mm in shim. The gears will break in by them selves no need to add preload (heat).

Hope this helps

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

That track is looser than the Nats track I ran on. But it's not a bad place to start...you may ditch the sway bar to get a bit more traction but try it first.

Tmachine

iTrader: (71)

Looking into how much this upgrade will be...


Just looking to see what are the part numbers to upgrade the dex410R to the v3... Much appreciated!