punkracer24

iTrader: (13)

here is a better question....do you have the new-ish parts to allow for the taller batteries to fit? consult the durango blog

Yzlvr

iTrader: (29)

You have to remove the 2 screws with the hold down and put the pin in then put it back in. They will fit.

The R has the updated parts for the 25mm height.

sean.hicks.army

iTrader: (10)

It looks like I have the 2010 lip spec battery strap. There was another "battery strap" that came with the kit, kinda in a y type formation, but it was not in the directions and I could not figure out where in the world that thing was suppose to go. I put one battery in and had to fight to get the pin into the strap and spur tower. Looking at the chasis is it possible that I go one with a bend?

Yzlvr

iTrader: (29)

Can you post a picture?

MaTt 93

iTrader: (8)

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...ipo-in-dex410/

25mm lipo convertion

sean.hicks.army

iTrader: (10)

I will try to post a pic, I have not had much luck in loading on my old computer. Lost all my other stuff in the tornado that tore through Alabama. I pulled this old laptop out, and I guess it is time to go get new stuff, insurance payed for it I just thought this one would be "good enough". Thanks for all the response. Pic coming after I buy a new computer latter this week.

sean.hicks.army

iTrader: (10)

Ok, on part ##TD320005 there is a y shaped piece next to the battery strap. What in the world is that? I have it, but it was not in the build instructions. Is this my problem?

sean.hicks.army

iTrader: (10)

Ok, one more since you guys are being so helpfull. Part #TD310039 there are plastic "tube" looking parts, I have those, but cannot figure out where they go either. They are the longer tube set of 4 not the pin cap.

Yzlvr

iTrader: (29)

I believe that is an older part and not used.

Yzlvr

iTrader: (29)

These are the parts you should have:

rossimega

anyone know how to take the gear dish out of the diff house? thanks in advance

TeamDurango

The 'Y' shaped part isn't used on your buggy - it's designed to mount to the chassis and hold the front of the battery strap, but that's now taken care of by the centre mount.

The 'plastic tubes' you mention are to go over the outdrives. They are for mounting up the rubber boots if you want to run those - but they also stop dirt getting into the bearings so it's a good idea to fit them even if you're not intending to run boots.

TeamDurango

Are you referring to the gear that pushes onto the outdrive? Turn the diff housing upside down and leave it for a while - it'll usually fall off under its own weight. You can encourage it with a few firm taps of the casing on a table.

If your gear really is seized on, you could try other methods - giving it a spray of penetrating fluid and again leaving it, or putting the assembly into a 1/8th scale buggy wheel and gently 'tapping' the outdrive from the inside.

If you get a gear which is really tight on the outdrive when assembling then it's a good idea to free things up before building the diff. You can of course lightly sand/file/grind the outdrive hex but you can also put the gear on / take it off a few times and it'll free up nicely without using any tools.

As I mentioned however - simply letting the gear fall off under its own weight usually works.

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

I have a bunch of old shock oil that I don't use (my go to oil is trinity 27.5 wt) anyhow, take a light weight oil and put a bit in the diff case so it mixes with the thicker diff oils. That usually makes it easier to clean and the planetary gear comes right out.




And I don't know about other kits, But the diff gears do need some prep before running them the first time. Mine have casting flash on the inside that was eating away the cross shafts. I just used 400 grit sand paper and sanded them like you would a diff ring till the flash was gone, also smoothed out the diff action when you prep the back of the satellite gears also.

rossimega

Many thanks for your advise, too. I will try.