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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 03-16-2011, 04:31 AM
  #6496  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Team Durango, a little help? Thanks...............
The actual shock kits which will be suitable for the buggy are about 2-3 weeks away - 23mm and 31mm are the ones you'll want for the 410 buggy.
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:21 AM
  #6497  
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Originally Posted by TeamDurango
The actual shock kits which will be suitable for the buggy are about 2-3 weeks away - 23mm and 31mm are the ones you'll want for the 410 buggy.
Awesome! Who's going to be the first to have them in the US? I also run black fronts and lt green rear springs. What colors are comparable in the big bores? Same color? Thanks again....
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:42 AM
  #6498  
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hey,
just looking for a setup for the rango... i currently have 50K in the front diff and 20k in the rear and im finding that the steering is really twitchy. If i use the grapejuice setup will that setle the car down and make it less twitchy?
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:18 AM
  #6499  
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Originally Posted by MaTt 93
hey,
just looking for a setup for the rango... i currently have 50K in the front diff and 20k in the rear and im finding that the steering is really twitchy. If i use the grapejuice setup will that setle the car down and make it less twitchy?
What kind of surface? I ran 15 in the front before and was like that . I now run 7/5 with sway bars and love the car. I also run on hard packed swept track. Seems like your oils are a little high. Also what springs and shock oil? The stiffer they are the quicker it reacts.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:49 AM
  #6500  
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Count me in as another victim of the ballcup poppers. I thought TD said they made a running change to their ballcups and made them more durable?
TC5 ballstuds and appropriate cups, are there any ballcups that's a direct fit for the stock ball studs?
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:11 AM
  #6501  
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Originally Posted by BOLISARIO
Count me in as another victim of the ballcup poppers. I thought TD said they made a running change to their ballcups and made them more durable?
TC5 ballstuds and appropriate cups, are there any ballcups that's a direct fit for the stock ball studs?
Not sure. Waiting on my stuff as well. Just changing the ones for steering though. Those are the only ones that pop off. Weird because they are PITA to put back on.
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:12 PM
  #6502  
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Ok, I tried Blitz ballcups and they DO NOT fit. They pop in but are a bit on the hollow side, so it doesn't take too much effort to pop off. I found old RPM cups (gray color) that seem to fit a 3.5 diameter turnbuckle and fit perfectly on the Durango ballstud with no binding compared to the standard 4-40 RPM's. I don't have enough of them so I'll just stick to 4-40 rpm cups and TC5 ball cups.

The TC5 has 8mm long, 8mm short and 5mm short I believe. Which ballstuds do I buy and which size stud goes to where?

On the hubs, does the ballstud neck height need to be a certain height and does it affect geometry a certain way or any height neck(long or short) will do?

Thanks.
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:14 PM
  #6503  
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I have this saved for this reason..........


You might want to have a look at oople.com, search the Team Durango section for "ball stud".

I just replaced my ball cups with RPM rod ends and the ball studs with Team Associated TC5 ball studs with metric thread. You also need some M3 nylock nuts. This is a perfect fit. The only thing I left are the original servo arm rod ends as there are countersunk holes which would not fit with the replacement ball studs.

Parts needed:
RPM73392 RPM Long Shank Rod Ends (1 pack = 12 pieces, better get 2 packs)
ASC31288 Ti Nitride Ballstuds M3x5, Short (1 pack)
ASC31289 Ti Nitride Ballstuds M3x8, Short (2 packs)
ASC31292 Ti Nitride Ballstuds M3x8,Long (2 packs)
ASC31290 Ti Nitride Ballstuds M3x10, Short (1 pack)

The fitment would be:
Front Caster Link Outer 5mm Short
Front Caster Link Inner (on Tower) 10mm Short with M3 nylock nut
Steering link outer 8mm Long with M3 nylock nut
Steering link inner 8mm Short with M3 nylock nut Rear link outer 8mm Long with M3 nylock nut
Rear link inner 8mm Short with M3 nylock nut

I hope this helps,
John
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:39 PM
  #6504  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
I have this saved for this reason..........


You might want to have a look at oople.com, search the Team Durango section for "ball stud".

I just replaced my ball cups with RPM rod ends and the ball studs with Team Associated TC5 ball studs with metric thread. You also need some M3 nylock nuts. This is a perfect fit. The only thing I left are the original servo arm rod ends as there are countersunk holes which would not fit with the replacement ball studs.

Parts needed:
RPM73392 RPM Long Shank Rod Ends (1 pack = 12 pieces, better get 2 packs)
ASC31288 Ti Nitride Ballstuds M3x5, Short (1 pack)
ASC31289 Ti Nitride Ballstuds M3x8, Short (2 packs)
ASC31292 Ti Nitride Ballstuds M3x8,Long (2 packs)
ASC31290 Ti Nitride Ballstuds M3x10, Short (1 pack)

The fitment would be:
Front Caster Link Outer 5mm Short
Front Caster Link Inner (on Tower) 10mm Short with M3 nylock nut
Steering link outer 8mm Long with M3 nylock nut
Steering link inner 8mm Short with M3 nylock nut Rear link outer 8mm Long with M3 nylock nut
Rear link inner 8mm Short with M3 nylock nut

I hope this helps,
John
You Da man, thanks!

So these ballstuds don't affect the geometry in a negative way?
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:52 PM
  #6505  
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Nope, that's what I run. I don't use the Ti coated ones though, was a lot less money.
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Old 03-17-2011, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
What kind of surface? I ran 15 in the front before and was like that . I now run 7/5 with sway bars and love the car. I also run on hard packed swept track. Seems like your oils are a little high. Also what springs and shock oil? The stiffer they are the quicker it reacts.
Okay Heres my current setup for my dex410R

Front
2 on shock tower ("R" tower)
middle on arm
dark blue springs
2 hole pistons not drilled
50,000k diff oil
0 degree camber
-1 degree toe
camber link- inside bottom
ride hight - arms level

REAR
camber link- inside top on tower middle on hub
shocks- grey, 35wt oil, 3 hole piston not drilled, Middle on tower("R" tower), middle on arm
20,000 k diff oil
toe- 0 degree hub
camber 0 degree
antisquat- RF -2 RR 4
ride height - arms level

the tracks medium grip , dusty and bumpy
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Old 03-17-2011, 03:15 AM
  #6507  
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Originally Posted by MaTt 93
Okay Heres my current setup for my dex410R

Front
2 on shock tower ("R" tower)
middle on arm
dark blue springs
2 hole pistons not drilled
50,000k diff oil
0 degree camber
-1 degree toe
camber link- inside bottom
ride hight - arms level

REAR
camber link- inside top on tower middle on hub
shocks- grey, 35wt oil, 3 hole piston not drilled, Middle on tower("R" tower), middle on arm
20,000 k diff oil
toe- 0 degree hub
camber 0 degree
antisquat- RF -2 RR 4
ride height - arms level

the tracks medium grip , dusty and bumpy
Try this setup, change your front camber link to the highest inside hole, the rear in the lowest inside hole, and out sides on both F/R hubs. Next try Black springs front and lt. green springs for the rear. Front/Rear shocks outside hole on arms.Shortest wheel base, 1 deg rear hubs. Diff oil 10F/2R. Any sway bars? If not run -2 front camber and -1 rear, and 0 toe. You can try all this with your stock springs first but the softer springs I mentioned will help tone the car down. I also run 25F/27.5R Losi oil with stock pistons. One last thing, do you run any weight? I run the full set. LMK.........
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Old 03-17-2011, 03:36 AM
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thanks for all the help, Its much appreciated. Improbably not got to be able t o try your setup till the 27th though. Nah no weights, do i need to with a 4500 mah battery?

Last edited by MaTt 93; 03-17-2011 at 03:46 AM.
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:09 AM
  #6509  
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Originally Posted by MaTt 93
thanks for all the help, Its much appreciated. Improbably not got to be able t o try your setup till the 27th though. Nah no weights, do i need to with a 4500 mah battery?
Ya I would it helps settle the rear. At least the skid plate.
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:55 AM
  #6510  
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I've tried mine with and without the weights. If you are running a lipo, the rear weights really settle the car down. Now I've just got to figure out how to balance the car side to side. It's about 40gms heavy on the motor side right now. I'm going to try a smaller spur and pinion (to move the motor closer to the center) and moving the speedo and receiver as far to the outside as possible.
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