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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 01-11-2011, 02:58 AM
  #5236  
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Originally Posted by tonyv2382
Def one of the nicest bodies Ive seen yet
Ya, not bad.Almost looks like mine............
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Old 01-11-2011, 06:49 AM
  #5237  
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Originally Posted by tonyv2382
Def one of the nicest bodies Ive seen yet
Mike L sucks hope Peter didntpay more the 30 bucks.
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Old 01-11-2011, 07:03 AM
  #5238  
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Nice paint!
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Old 01-11-2011, 07:22 AM
  #5239  
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Originally Posted by RB FIVE
Mike L sucks hope Peter didntpay more the 30 bucks.
Yup 30. Hes pretty good. I dont need an elaborate job like from darkside for 100 bucks
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:21 AM
  #5240  
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Originally Posted by cbrociuos
i have a savox tg, .07 and like 160 on the torque. dont remember the #. id like to try it in the rango, but im about out of room. dont really have a place for a cap. i was thinking if i turn up my bec on the esc to 7.4volts it would drop the amp pull of the servo and i may not need the cap. wasnt sure if the servo would handle it or if the extra voltage would be enough to not need a cap. if it wasnt such a pain in the arse to change the servo id try but im a little on the lazy side cause my airtronics servo works fine. maybe ill throw it in my f.t. sc10 i have on order.
I'm using the same servo with out a cap since its not a high voltage servo....no problems here
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:32 AM
  #5241  
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Originally Posted by turboxrayt1fk05
I'm using the same servo with out a cap since its not a high voltage servo....no problems here
what esc though. they wont work in a castle pro w/o a cap.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:58 AM
  #5242  
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Originally Posted by cbrociuos
what esc though. they wont work in a castle pro w/o a cap.
I just bought a savox 1258tg and your telling me it wont work with my mmp?
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:07 AM
  #5243  
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Default TDR310008 Aluminum middle bulkhead

Question regarding a part I bought to upgrade my 410R with...

I purchased the 25mm aluminum middle bulkhead, part# TDR310008 and installed the part, being careful to use just a dab of blue loctite on the screws going into the aluminum motor plate and through the chassis. Once I had it "snug" and set, I could barely get my spur/slipper assembly into it? I have the correct (10x12x0.1mm) shims on both sides of the slipper bearings and I am not comfortable with how tight the gear is held in place? You can per the manual and can barely rotate it by hand? I removed the slipper/spur assembly, loosened it all up and the only way to get the spur/slipper assembly to rotate (similar to having the plastic piece back in), is by running the screws so loose, it is defeating the purpose?

Should I go back to using the stock plastic piece? I run on HIGH GRIP clay and the strength/rigidity of the aluminum would be an improvement, so I would like to use it if I can. But not in the condition it is right now as I fear I will cook the motor due to there being such drag on the drivetrain? I thought about taking some material off the bearing seats on both aluminum peices, but before I do so, I wanted to see if anyone else has run into this dilema?

Any input or experience with this same part/piece and how to alleviate the stress?
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:14 AM
  #5244  
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Originally Posted by desertracerdad
Question regarding a part I bought to upgrade my 410R with...

I purchased the 25mm aluminum middle bulkhead, part# TDR310008 and installed the part, being careful to use just a dab of blue loctite on the screws going into the aluminum motor plate and through the chassis. Once I had it "snug" and set, I could barely get my spur/slipper assembly into it? I have the correct (10x12x0.1mm) shims on both sides of the slipper bearings and I am not comfortable with how tight the gear is held in place? You can per the manual and can barely rotate it by hand? I removed the slipper/spur assembly, loosened it all up and the only way to get the spur/slipper assembly to rotate (similar to having the plastic piece back in), is by running the screws so loose, it is defeating the purpose?

Should I go back to using the stock plastic piece? I run on HIGH GRIP clay and the strength/rigidity of the aluminum would be an improvement, so I would like to use it if I can. But not in the condition it is right now as I fear I will cook the motor due to there being such drag on the drivetrain? I thought about taking some material off the bearing seats on both aluminum peices, but before I do so, I wanted to see if anyone else has run into this dilema?

Any input or experience with this same part/piece and how to alleviate the stress?
I dont have any experience with this but do you need the shims with both aluminum mounts... maybe the dex410 manual doesn't use the shims, just a thought.
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:27 AM
  #5245  
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Originally Posted by CORRRCR
I just bought a savox 1258tg and your telling me it wont work with my mmp?
yes they work flawlessly w/ a cap plugged into the reciever. it prob. wont work w/o one. if it does you will eventually get a dnf because of it. put a cap. on it. they draw more power (amps) than the mmp bec. can deliver. i dont want to have to try to stuff anything else under the stock body. im thinking they might work w/ the bec turned up to 7.4 volts because when you raise the volts you lower the amps. i havent tried it yet though.
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:31 AM
  #5246  
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Originally Posted by cbrociuos
yes they work flawlessly w/ a cap plugged into the reciever. it prob. wont work w/o one. if it does you will eventually get a dnf because of it. put a cap. on it. they draw more power (amps) than the mmp bec. can deliver. i dont want to have to try to stuff anything else under the stock body. im thinking they might work w/ the bec turned up to 7.4 volts because when you raise the volts you lower the amps. i havent tried it yet though.
My mmp is set at 6v bec..... but wil the servo handle more than 6v?
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:21 PM
  #5247  
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Originally Posted by CORRRCR
My mmp is set at 6v bec..... but wil the servo handle more than 6v?
my nitro buddies all run 7.4v w/ all their 6v servos and dont have a prob. the one guy on here stated he's powering his savox off his lipo. they should be ok. im going to put this servo in my f.t. sc10 when i build it and turn it up to 7.4v and see if it glitches w/o a cap w/ a mmp. ill report back. i should get it tomorrow, but i have to build it.
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:30 PM
  #5248  
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Originally Posted by CORRRCR
I dont have any experience with this but do you need the shims with both aluminum mounts... maybe the dex410 manual doesn't use the shims, just a thought.
I have the 410 manual and it calls for the same 10x12x0.1mm (copper) shims on both sides... I emailed HRP & Skelding to see if I am missing something or got a peice with too much material on it?
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:40 PM
  #5249  
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Originally Posted by desertracerdad
I have the 410 manual and it calls for the same 10x12x0.1mm (copper) shims on both sides... I emailed HRP & Skelding to see if I am missing something or got a peice with too much material on it?
atleast i tried Did you remove the shims just to see if it helps?
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:41 PM
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I am running off the lipo but the 1267 and 68 are rated HV. Just dont want to lead anybody to do the wrong thing.
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