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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 01-08-2011, 11:02 AM
  #5161  
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Never seen one of those break before
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:03 AM
  #5162  
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Originally Posted by dangerwr
Currently the only aluminum servo saver available is the Tresrey and is used up top. mostly the top one goes.
Errm, isnt it the bottom one that breaks? Tresrey makes the bottom part.
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by cbrociuos
i was just cleaning my car and noticed i broke the cvd end off the shaft of one of my new 2mm front driveshafts. i have one race day and a practice on these parts. anyone having any trouble w/ these? i had prob. a good year on my 1.5mm w/ no prob. other than one broken stub axle up front.
I just changed from the 1.5 with no problems to the 2.0's. Everyone should check there cvd pins I had one come apart and noticed the small flat spot for the set screw is machined off center and that was the reason for it coming apart. Pulled out the parts bag and 2 out of the 4 were that same way. Used the one that was centered and haven't had a problem since.
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:13 AM
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Well, if anyone else needs an aluminum saver arm, we still have some available.

RCE9801-$15.99

Premierehobbies.com!
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:32 AM
  #5165  
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Originally Posted by hogmansp
I just changed from the 1.5 with no problems to the 2.0's. Everyone should check there cvd pins I had one come apart and noticed the small flat spot for the set screw is machined off center and that was the reason for it coming apart. Pulled out the parts bag and 2 out of the 4 were that same way. Used the one that was centered and haven't had a problem since.
Friend of mine had similar issue with 2 drive shaft/dog bone pins shearing off...brand new car and I was shocked. I'd contact HRP, I bet they would take care of you.
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:43 AM
  #5166  
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Originally Posted by hogmansp
I used the same ones Tony. I used a ball stud in a low speed drill motor and popped a rod end on spun it for about 10 seconds took it off stuck it on the car and free as heck with no slop. They have all been good for a month or so so far.
Ya Its funny you mention this because after instaling everything the suspension compresses...and just stays there from the binding of the rod end to the stud. I dunno why RPM insists that the 4.3's are a good match cuz clearly theyre not. I had a schumacher stud laying around and it went on perfectly but I only had one.

So what do I do? take one of the studs, put it on a drill and spin it in the ball cup until it frees up?

I could do the easy thing and order myself some tamiya rod ends and mate them to the stock stuff and be done with it lol. As a matter of fact Ihave some ...brb let u guys know how it goes.

Last edited by tonyv2382; 01-08-2011 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 01-08-2011, 12:08 PM
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So what do I do? take one of the studs, put it on a drill and spin it in the ball cup until it frees up?



Yes that is what I did and so far so good. The only reason I changed is because I had a few stock ones wear out a little and the rpm's were sitting here and didn't feel like placing an order for just a pack of stock rod ends.
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Old 01-08-2011, 01:12 PM
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ordering stuff is so fun......but now Im reallly broke ugh
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Old 01-08-2011, 01:17 PM
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Just installed tamiya rod ends, and studs. Perfect fit. They stay on strong and free movement.

Good thing I had a few kits before and NEVER through anything out. LoL. So if any1 has any of these or wants to use them they're real good. Can't use the stock studs though.
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Old 01-08-2011, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by CORRRCR
ordering stuff is so fun......but now Im reallly broke ugh
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Old 01-08-2011, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rfleck
Wookie,
Not sure where you are from...90 Celcius or 90 Farenheit? with a 5.5t you should be running around a 17 or 18 I believe.
hey, im in australia, and yes 90c

i just put a 18t on there and the temps have dropped. although it doesn't have enough top speed for what i think.

i just gets to top speed really quick, but i suppose that im running a 5.5t so the top speed might be heaps.

i didn't think i could get a 17t pinion on there as the 18t, the motor is moved as far over as i can, and it is just meshed right, i cant go over any more.

has anyone fit a 17t pinion on there or even a 16.
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Old 01-08-2011, 04:39 PM
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Figured out how to make the rpms work...bare with me on this one cuz I been wrenching all damn day.

After adding the tamiya ends, which are perfect, I was pissed at the fact that I bought all of these rpms for nothing, I tried the drill method and that really didnt free the sticking up much, so I remembered what happened when I tried installing them on the stock durango studs, they stretched out a bit, And I thought well maybe now theyll fit better on hpi studs, and they do, perfectly. So if u wanna use these rpm ends and the drill method mentioned before doesnt work, you can try what I just did to open up the ball cup interior a bit. Works great.

My fingers are chafing lol.
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Old 01-08-2011, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tonyv2382
Figured out how to make the rpms work...bare with me on this one cuz I been wrenching all damn day.

After adding the tamiya ends, which are perfect, I was pissed at the fact that I bought all of these rpms for nothing, I tried the drill method and that really didnt free the sticking up much, so I remembered what happened when I tried installing them on the stock durango studs, they stretched out a bit, And I thought well maybe now theyll fit better on hpi studs, and they do, perfectly. So if u wanna use these rpm ends and the drill method mentioned before doesnt work, you can try what I just did to open up the ball cup interior a bit. Works great.

My fingers are chafing lol.
yep, changing ballcups is the worst job in rc. ive got a cracked index finger from putting rpms on my x-60 the other day. SUCKS!
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Old 01-08-2011, 05:46 PM
  #5174  
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Hpi ball cups from the blitz fit perfectly on the stock ball studs
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Old 01-08-2011, 05:58 PM
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Will traxxas ball cups fit? Lol
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