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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-29-2009, 07:38 PM
  #421  
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I ran the IP 4200 had trouble with run time. Ran a 8 minute main and the car did not make it with a 8.5
Now with the LRP 4800 runtime is no longer an issue and I now run a 5.5
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Old 10-30-2009, 03:30 AM
  #422  
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Lrp's site says they are 23.5mm tall, so there is not even 1mm of room left with the LRP packs? Orion's new packs are also 4800 and are 45c. I've used their batteries since they came out with lipos and love them. I had 4 SMC batteries fail on me, 2 red carbon and 2 C-max's. Will never use theirs again, I do like their NIMH though. The LRP sure is pricey for a 4800.

I did read in Oople's article that just about every wheel fits, too. Another question, though. I know lots of people have asked already but not too many has had a good feel for the diffs oils yet it seems. For indoor clay should I be thicker fluids or thinner? I come from 8th scale electric and always ran 5F/3R inside and went up to 7F for larger open tracks. Is 10F/5R a good starting point or is the 20F/10R the norm now? seems a bit stiff for tight indoor.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:27 AM
  #423  
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Originally Posted by Blackstring
Lrp's site says they are 23.5mm tall, so there is not even 1mm of room left with the LRP packs? Orion's new packs are also 4800 and are 45c. I've used their batteries since they came out with lipos and love them. I had 4 SMC batteries fail on me, 2 red carbon and 2 C-max's. Will never use theirs again, I do like their NIMH though. The LRP sure is pricey for a 4800.

I did read in Oople's article that just about every wheel fits, too. Another question, though. I know lots of people have asked already but not too many has had a good feel for the diffs oils yet it seems. For indoor clay should I be thicker fluids or thinner? I come from 8th scale electric and always ran 5F/3R inside and went up to 7F for larger open tracks. Is 10F/5R a good starting point or is the 20F/10R the norm now? seems a bit stiff for tight indoor.
You have a PM
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Old 10-30-2009, 07:37 AM
  #424  
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I am currently running 7000 front and 3000 rear
I run indoors on a clay and top soil mix med. traction hard packed
It working well for me
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Old 10-30-2009, 09:50 AM
  #425  
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I tried 20k front and 10k rear last weekend at a inndoor carpet race. worked really well..
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Old 10-31-2009, 05:23 PM
  #426  
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I prefer 30f/10r for indoor hard clay. I havent tried anything less than 20 in the front.

What type of conditions would I want a lower oil up front?
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:26 PM
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Well as far as 8th scale goes, lighter fluid in front will generally give more steering but too light will start to get grabby and inconsistent. If you have more hairpins or tighter course will need a lighter fluid to allow the inner and outer wheels to rotate and different speeds.
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:27 PM
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Blackstring is correct.
A tighter track would require lighter oils for a quicker diff type action
My local track has alot of quick esses and 180's with one sweeper
I like the 7000 in front but the 10,000 is also good not quite as active
Its a matter of feel.
Also a heavier front will pull the car around the turn
Trial is the best way to tell. Preferably on the clock if you can
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:40 PM
  #429  
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Questions?? Spare Parts for DEX410

If I buy this car. What spares parts you must have in your toolbox?
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by FMLinero
If I buy this car. What spares parts you must have in your toolbox?
The normal stuff, arms, hubs, I have raced a few times and have not broken anything. The car is very durable. Also get some drive shaft pins. There have been a few people who have had them pop out...including me. Putting heat shrink over the shaft where the pin inserts helps too
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:07 PM
  #431  
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Originally Posted by trap121
The normal stuff, arms, hubs, I have raced a few times and have not broken anything. The car is very durable. Also get some drive shaft pins. There have been a few people who have had them pop out...including me. Putting heat shrink over the shaft where the pin inserts helps too
Thxs
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:33 PM
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I didn't even use the pins, instead I had some extra losi ones that fit much nicer. They are slight thicker so they squeeze in place just enough not to pop out. The stock pins just kept falling out during assembly. The losi ones are also longer, as long as the hex is wide. Bonus.

This is the nicest anything I've seen for production quality. Its as if I bought THE prototype that has thousands of hours of refignment into it. A lot of times long run production tends to scale back on tolerences and fit/finish to get the product out the door. I work directly with engineers and prototyping and am shocked at the quality in this car, beyond my expetations.Only issues seem to fall into the packaging as screws and parts were not in bags they were supposed to be in. And that the instruction were slightly vague as far as discriptions, like bleeding the shocks properly or setting the servo saver. Really just small things some may not know how to do.
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Old 11-06-2009, 05:42 AM
  #433  
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Blackstring, Have you had a chance to run your DEX at CRC yet?
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Old 11-06-2009, 08:04 AM
  #434  
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thanks again for the killer deal!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-06-2009, 08:11 AM
  #435  
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Originally Posted by msconcepts
thanks again for the killer deal!!!!!!!!!
So, when can I pick that up today for Junction tomorrow.....
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