Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread >

Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Like Tree22Likes

Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 12-08-2010, 07:02 AM
  #4066  
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
 
makaluch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Vancouver, Wa.
Posts: 1,084
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by HyperFX
...makaluch, might want to consider turning your esc around 180*, to get the posts/heatsinks away from the motor. It might cause thermaling issues...
Thanks man. I'm running it tame but I'll definitely keep an eye on temps. The 10.5 is a tad over the top on my track. The best drivers are pulling the same times with a 13.5 and a clear track.

I used the cheesy plate so I can get to my servo and make changes. It's too easy to shred the device cases when removing them. The plate is solid after you mount everything.
makaluch is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 07:04 AM
  #4067  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
pmes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 521
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ekv
i followed their blog post on packing the diff, though i didn't use the green slime, i used some SHIMANO DURA-ACE GREASE... facets of being a former bike mechanic. stuff is insanely good.
I call your Dura-Ace and raise you a Phil Wood. I could put water in my diffs and they wouldn't leak through my x-rings smothered in Phil Wood grease.
pmes is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 07:04 AM
  #4068  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: n.e. ohio
Posts: 892
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jsmax
Looking at getting a Durango and trying to find what ESC's will fit in this car. Normally I run CC Mamba Max Pro and like that ESC, but not sure if it will fit with a Futaba rx. Anyone have experience with this and possibly pics of their setup?
post #2847
cbrociuos is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 07:09 AM
  #4069  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (35)
 
t0p_sh0tta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 4,863
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by makaluch
Thanks man. I'm running it tame but I'll definitely keep an eye on temps. The 10.5 is a tad over the top on my track. The best drivers are pulling the same times with a 13.5 and a clear track.

I used the cheesy plate so I can get to my servo and make changes. It's too easy to shred the device cases when removing them. The plate is solid after you mount everything.
I ran my RS Pro the same way and temps were fine. I did squeeze my receiver next to the speedo (fits perfectly), and mount a small high velocity fan aimed at the ESC's posts.
t0p_sh0tta is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 07:19 AM
  #4070  
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
 
makaluch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Vancouver, Wa.
Posts: 1,084
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

t0p_sh0tta: Would you happen to have any pics?

I've seen so many different ways to do it. I figure just get it done and make changes as necessary. If I aim for the perfect layout it'll just be a dust collector Seeing different options with my equipment is good though.

On the leaky diffs - I'm coming from 8th scales. Those machines put so much power to the gear diffs it's unbelievable...and they take it. Leaks aren't as big a deal as you guys are making it. Happens from heating the air bubbles, the fluid and metals expanding, and the viscous fluids "packing" around the gears. The thicker the oil the higher the case pressure and the harder the gears will push out against your shims making heat. Just soak the o-rings in green slime overnight and don't overfill them. They can leak a little without causing harm. By the time it becomes harmful it's time for a change anyway. The fluids loose a little viscosity and lighten just like motor oil in your car. The TD blog pic shows a slightly overfilled diff...just get to the bottom edge of the top star gear shaft and adjust a bit per your weights. I understand that indoor tracks require a more precise feel, but really, it's not that big a deal to maintain them.

Last edited by makaluch; 12-08-2010 at 07:32 AM.
makaluch is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 07:31 AM
  #4071  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (42)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 577
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default durando set up

I have both Corey's and Grapejuice set up. Looks like neither one is running sway bars ? Is this true?

Also what are you guys running for rear droop ?Unless I'm just missing it I don't see anything listed for droop on either set up sheet.

thanks
Mike
miket3 is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 07:51 AM
  #4072  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (154)
 
grapejuice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 3,260
Trader Rating: 154 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by miket3
I have both Corey's and Grapejuice set up. Looks like neither one is running sway bars ? Is this true?

Also what are you guys running for rear droop ?Unless I'm just missing it I don't see anything listed for droop on either set up sheet.

thanks
Mike
Yeah, no sway bars!!! And I just have the droop screws all the way in on the rear arms.
grapejuice is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 08:14 AM
  #4073  
ekv
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: bay area and seattle
Posts: 20
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by pmes
I call your Dura-Ace and raise you a Phil Wood. I could put water in my diffs and they wouldn't leak through my x-rings smothered in Phil Wood grease.
oh snap! phil is phenomenal grease as well... just have the DA tub already. only problem with phil's is when you drop a few packs of grease with free ball bearings into your friends seat tube, the grease never goes away, so you can't get that annoying rattle in their bike...
ekv is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 09:01 AM
  #4074  
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
 
makaluch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Vancouver, Wa.
Posts: 1,084
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Yeah, swaybars slow down your roll center action and stop your shocks from packing. You won't be feel sloppy and get thrown around so much through the rough stuff. They're good for high-speed, rough tracks...euro or loam style. On hard pack, groomed, high-bite you'll want all of the independent suspension action you can get.

Some 8th guys are nuts with fluids. They'll mix their own crap to get the viscosity they like best. Grease doesn't leak like fluids do. I've seen everything from Slick Honey to Maxim bearing grease to motor oil. Careful with your case material...some of those lubes will soften the plastics. 8th guys don't care...lol. Just buy new cases when you get too much carrier pin slop.
makaluch is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 09:18 AM
  #4075  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (45)
 
rangerjkb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 2,609
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jsmax
Looking at getting a Durango and trying to find what ESC's will fit in this car. Normally I run CC Mamba Max Pro and like that ESC, but not sure if it will fit with a Futaba rx. Anyone have experience with this and possibly pics of their setup?
Also post #4063 for a few pics.
rangerjkb is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 10:30 AM
  #4076  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Razathorn's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,222
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by makaluch
Yeah, swaybars slow down your roll center action and stop your shocks from packing.
What?

Sway bars LIMIT your ROLL in a corner at that end of the car. They don't slow down anything -- shock damping rate slows things down. If you land with both wheels at the same time when not cornering, it is functionally the same as not having a sway bar.

You won't be feel sloppy and get thrown around so much through the rough stuff. They're good for high-speed, rough tracks...euro or loam style. On hard pack, groomed, high-bite you'll want all of the independent suspension action you can get.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're saying here, but at the moment, I've got to disagree tremendously here. On a hard packed, groomed, high bite track you will need sway bars more than other conditions -- any time you have a surplus of traction, your car will have more of a tendency to roll in the corner, to the point where it 'rolls over' and becomes unstable. This is where a a sway bar (anti-roll bar) is paramount. On a loose track, your car won't grab as much, or roll as much, so you don't want the sway bar limiting your roll as roll in the corner provides traction on the outside wheel (same reason raising the car on a dusty track gives you more traction in the corners, it promotes roll). On a rough and bumpy track, a sway bar can contribute to instability as it transmits action from one side of the car to the other via the bar, so if you're on a rough track that is tacky and has lots of traction... you either have to run without sways to be more forgiving in the bumps and take corners slower, or run sways and be extra careful in the rough stuff and then eat the corners for breakfast.

I like to equate running a swaybar to running stiffer springs only in the corners. It allows you to independently adjust the weight transfer in the corner from that of straight line acceleration.

When our local track is dusty, I can run my b44 without a rear sway bar, but if it gets watered and is tacky and sticky, the car easily rolls over in the corners under hard cornering and lifts the front wheel on the inside. Adding the sway bar back fixes the issue. The same results happen with my b4 when I run soft rear springs -- I have to step up a spring rate to a stiffer rear spring or the car looses it in hard corners.

In general, on a hard packed & tacky racing surface, you should consider the following aids in tuning direction:
  • Less droop (reduces roll in the corners)
  • Less ride height (reduces roll in the corners, keeps CG low as to not traction roll)
  • Stiffer springs (reduces roll in the corners)
  • Stiffer or addition of sway bar (reduces roll in the corner while retaining non corner weight transfer characteristics).

Wayne
Razathorn is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 11:29 AM
  #4077  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (45)
 
rangerjkb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 2,609
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Wayne.....I know you must be considering a Durango in your near future....Hopefully see you at the races tonight or Sat.
rangerjkb is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 12:15 PM
  #4078  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
 
turboxrayt1fk05's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: ri
Posts: 978
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

well guys im a proud owner of a dex410 , will post pix of final project since it sence that esc and rx placement is an small issue lol
turboxrayt1fk05 is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 12:18 PM
  #4079  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Razathorn's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,222
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rangerjkb
Wayne.....I know you must be considering a Durango in your near future....Hopefully see you at the races tonight or Sat.
I'll be there tonight. I'm not considering a durango -- 4wd isn't the platform I'm concentrating on at the moment, so there's no movement on my part happening there. I've got to get my 2wd game back .

Wayne
Razathorn is offline  
Old 12-08-2010, 12:32 PM
  #4080  
Tech Master
iTrader: (57)
 
BOLISARIO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: S. Corona
Posts: 1,762
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by pmes
I call your Dura-Ace and raise you a Phil Wood. I could put water in my diffs and they wouldn't leak through my x-rings smothered in Phil Wood grease.
I plan to use Mobil One synthetic grease. They work well in 1/8 and I have huge tube full of it from Autozone.
BOLISARIO is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.