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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 11-29-2010, 07:21 AM
  #3871  
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For everyone stripping ring gears....a lot is factored in. First, make sure when the bevel gear is in the diff case, there should be very very minimal movement back and forth if any, and make sure to us red lock tight on the grub screw and it needs to set up for at least an hour before running it. Second, don't just shim the diff like it says in the manual, all kits will be a little different which is why there are 0.5 shims, make sure the gear mesh as tight as possible but still feel smooth. Third, slipper....it's there to slip so make sure it is doing that. Fourth, brakes....does your car nose wheelie when you hit the brakes? Brakes should slow you down, not flip you over. Fifth, check the the drive train often when you pull the battery out to charge it, make sure things feel smooth.

And just because the car cost $650 (if you opt to buy the spec), doesn't mean the car is going to build itself. Take the time to learn the car, learn what it likes and doesn't like. Now that I have learned from my mistakes, I love the car and have very minimal issues.
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Old 11-29-2010, 07:57 AM
  #3872  
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Originally Posted by grapejuice
For everyone stripping ring gears....a lot is factored in. First, make sure when the bevel gear is in the diff case, there should be very very minimal movement back and forth if any, and make sure to us red lock tight on the grub screw and it needs to set up for at least an hour before running it. Second, don't just shim the diff like it says in the manual, all kits will be a little different which is why there are 0.5 shims, make sure the gear mesh as tight as possible but still feel smooth. Third, slipper....it's there to slip so make sure it is doing that. Fourth, brakes....does your car nose wheelie when you hit the brakes? Brakes should slow you down, not flip you over. Fifth, check the the drive train often when you pull the battery out to charge it, make sure things feel smooth.

And just because the car cost $650 (if you opt to buy the spec), doesn't mean the car is going to build itself. Take the time to learn the car, learn what it likes and doesn't like. Now that I have learned from my mistakes, I love the car and have very minimal issues.

AMEN!!!
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:41 AM
  #3873  
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grapejuice- I COULDNT' OF SAID IT BETTER MYSELF!!!! perfecto lol
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:02 AM
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Default Rebuilding shocks . . .

While everyone is praising Grapejuice I would like to thank him also for showing me how to fill and bleed these particular shocks. I was under the impression these were an emulsion shock and should expect to see air in the oil when rebuilding. I guess this is not the case?

Also, are you guys replacing the internal plastics once in a while or just the o-rings? Lastly, anyone have experience with those Ghea machined delrin conical pistons?? Thanks!

Last edited by dangerwr; 11-29-2010 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dangerwr
While everyone is praising Grapejuice I would like to thank him also for showing me how to fill and bleed these particula shock. I was under the imprtession these were an emulsion shock and should expect to see air in the oil when rebuilding. I guess this is not the case?

Also, are you guys replacing the internal plastics once in a while or just the o-rings? Lastly, anyone have experience with those Ghea machined delrin conical pistons?? Thanks!
What is the correct way? I fill the body, put on the cap(without bleed screw) hold shock at angle with air hole on top, and push shaft half way up untill all air comes out. Is this the right way? Thanks.......
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
What is the correct way? I fill the body, put on the cap(without bleed screw) hold shock at angle with air hole on top, and push shaft half way up untill all air comes out. Is this the right way? Thanks.......
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=1232
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Old 11-29-2010, 10:48 AM
  #3877  
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Anyone who just built a 410R kit - noticed the steering ackerman brace only has 2 holes compared to the 410 kit aluminum one with 3 holes. The manual just shows one blurry hole... can't tell which one I should use. Can anyone tell me what the best setting is (stock kit) - front hole towards the front of the car, or rear hole?? thanks!
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Old 11-29-2010, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mgrmek
Anyone who just built a 410R kit - noticed the steering ackerman brace only has 2 holes compared to the 410 kit aluminum one with 3 holes. The manual just shows one blurry hole... can't tell which one I should use. Can anyone tell me what the best setting is (stock kit) - front hole towards the front of the car, or rear hole?? thanks!
The setup sheets I have seen place the setting with the front holes (towards the front of the car).
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:46 PM
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Does anyone know the correct spec dimensions of the Kyosho P5 o-rings? They are very hard to find but we spec several sizes from Apple Rubber here at work and are also silicone. If I knew the size I would know if I have access to a whole bunch of these things . . .
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Old 11-29-2010, 02:38 PM
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The only problems I have had with my 410r is the grub screw on the pinion shaft coming loose and a stripped servo horn as far as the car goes. Now the real problem I have is I went to my local hobby shop and it seems everything is on BACK ORDER from HRP, I wanted to get some spares but guess I'll have to wait
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Old 11-29-2010, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mgrmek
Anyone who just built a 410R kit - noticed the steering ackerman brace only has 2 holes compared to the 410 kit aluminum one with 3 holes. The manual just shows one blurry hole... can't tell which one I should use. Can anyone tell me what the best setting is (stock kit) - front hole towards the front of the car, or rear hole?? thanks!
I mounted in front holes on ackerman steering plate. It provides more steering than I was used to, coming from a B44, but very controlable. Haven't tried the back holes.
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Old 11-29-2010, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by grapejuice
For everyone stripping ring gears....a lot is factored in. First, make sure when the bevel gear is in the diff case, there should be very very minimal movement back and forth if any, and make sure to us red lock tight on the grub screw and it needs to set up for at least an hour before running it. Second, don't just shim the diff like it says in the manual, all kits will be a little different which is why there are 0.5 shims, make sure the gear mesh as tight as possible but still feel smooth. Third, slipper....it's there to slip so make sure it is doing that. Fourth, brakes....does your car nose wheelie when you hit the brakes? Brakes should slow you down, not flip you over. Fifth, check the the drive train often when you pull the battery out to charge it, make sure things feel smooth.

And just because the car cost $650 (if you opt to buy the spec), doesn't mean the car is going to build itself. Take the time to learn the car, learn what it likes and doesn't like. Now that I have learned from my mistakes, I love the car and have very minimal issues.
Although I agree with most of what you've said.. you can't discount the likelyhood of poor material choice or mfg fault.
I have on good authority that the first generation on ring gears were fabricated from a poorly chosen material.
I'm not sure when the change took place but the current ring gears are made from a very different material either that or they mfg process has changed.
This is clearly visable when you compare the current gears with the old one.
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Old 11-29-2010, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by littlejohn
Although I agree with most of what you've said.. you can't discount the likelyhood of poor material choice or mfg fault.
I have on good authority that the first generation on ring gears were fabricated from a poorly chosen material.
I'm not sure when the change took place but the current ring gears are made from a very different material either that or they mfg process has changed.
This is clearly visable when you compare the current gears with the old one.
im still running my original ring gears that came w/ my kit. td 00776 is my kit # it was one of the first to be shipped to the usa. im running an 8.5 balistic w/ no timing. i did take the summer off though, that must be why mine are still in great shape!
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Old 11-29-2010, 04:50 PM
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^^Same here, I even built a spare diff just in case, fortunately its never been used
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Old 11-29-2010, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by cbrociuos
im still running my original ring gears that came w/ my kit. td 00776 is my kit # it was one of the first to be shipped to the usa. im running an 8.5 balistic w/ no timing. i did take the summer off though, that must be why mine are still in great shape!
That's the funny thing about mfg faults for material failure... it doesn't happen to every one.. and is rather unpredicatable.

The point I was trying to get across was, just because it doesn't happen to everyone, it doens't mean that it's user / build error. and that a pre-existing fault doens't exist.
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