22LikesTeam Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread
11-24-2010, 11:04 AM
#3766
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
I agree that the angle is not ideal but if you have seen one of the broken servo saver parts, you'll notice there is practically no material there. It is in no way a strong part. I tossed all on mine out so I can't take a picture.
Now I didn't have the problems others have had with the parts breaking but I went ahead an upgraded it anyways because it is a weak link. As soon as I put the aluminum Servo Saver on I stripped out the servo arm. Makes that the next weakest link. Put on the aluminum servo arm and haven't had a problem yet.
Now is there a "next" weak link? I honestly don't think so. The linkage is solid now and the servo saver can still do its job like its supposed to do. I run a servo that is up to the task of an 1/8th scale buggy (ACE1015) so I really do not worry about being able to handle a solid linkage.
Now I didn't have the problems others have had with the parts breaking but I went ahead an upgraded it anyways because it is a weak link. As soon as I put the aluminum Servo Saver on I stripped out the servo arm. Makes that the next weakest link. Put on the aluminum servo arm and haven't had a problem yet.
Now is there a "next" weak link? I honestly don't think so. The linkage is solid now and the servo saver can still do its job like its supposed to do. I run a servo that is up to the task of an 1/8th scale buggy (ACE1015) so I really do not worry about being able to handle a solid linkage.
11-24-2010, 12:26 PM
#3773
^^Probably and you'd only need longer shock mounts/arm in the front. The rear should work just fine.
I have big bores on the Cougar and if Durango comes out with a shock update kit I will definately take a set. That way I could almost build a spare Durango out of my spare parts stock.
I have big bores on the Cougar and if Durango comes out with a shock update kit I will definately take a set. That way I could almost build a spare Durango out of my spare parts stock.
11-24-2010, 12:45 PM
#3775
Once you go big bores you don't go back. I would definately get them.
Instead of offsetting the front it would be nice if the moved the front diff back and "straightened" out the CVD's instead. Shocks stay in the same place, a little less weight up front, and better CVD alignment. This would probably be too costly though, but a nice idea
Instead of offsetting the front it would be nice if the moved the front diff back and "straightened" out the CVD's instead. Shocks stay in the same place, a little less weight up front, and better CVD alignment. This would probably be too costly though, but a nice idea
11-24-2010, 01:51 PM
#3776
I agree that the angle is not ideal but if you have seen one of the broken servo saver parts, you'll notice there is practically no material there. It is in no way a strong part. I tossed all on mine out so I can't take a picture.
Now I didn't have the problems others have had with the parts breaking but I went ahead an upgraded it anyways because it is a weak link. As soon as I put the aluminum Servo Saver on I stripped out the servo arm. Makes that the next weakest link. Put on the aluminum servo arm and haven't had a problem yet.
Now is there a "next" weak link? I honestly don't think so. The linkage is solid now and the servo saver can still do its job like its supposed to do. I run a servo that is up to the task of an 1/8th scale buggy (ACE1015) so I really do not worry about being able to handle a solid linkage.
Now I didn't have the problems others have had with the parts breaking but I went ahead an upgraded it anyways because it is a weak link. As soon as I put the aluminum Servo Saver on I stripped out the servo arm. Makes that the next weakest link. Put on the aluminum servo arm and haven't had a problem yet.
Now is there a "next" weak link? I honestly don't think so. The linkage is solid now and the servo saver can still do its job like its supposed to do. I run a servo that is up to the task of an 1/8th scale buggy (ACE1015) so I really do not worry about being able to handle a solid linkage.
11-25-2010, 05:38 AM
#3777
DEX410R indoor carpet set-up
Hello all.
After following this thread some time I just recently got hold of a nearly unused DEX410R with a complete spare car (still in parts) and a lot of option alu parts.
The plan is to use it at the local indoor carpet track during the winter season. The track is semi technical with one ~20m straight that ends in a long sweeping 180 deg curve (total length of track is apx. 100m or so).
I wonder if you guys could point me in the direction of some good set-ups for carpet.
What tires and foam inserts are you guys using on carpet? I have seen Schumacher "Mini Pin" in "yellow" on some set-up sheets.
Regards Ronny
After following this thread some time I just recently got hold of a nearly unused DEX410R with a complete spare car (still in parts) and a lot of option alu parts.
The plan is to use it at the local indoor carpet track during the winter season. The track is semi technical with one ~20m straight that ends in a long sweeping 180 deg curve (total length of track is apx. 100m or so).
I wonder if you guys could point me in the direction of some good set-ups for carpet.
What tires and foam inserts are you guys using on carpet? I have seen Schumacher "Mini Pin" in "yellow" on some set-up sheets.
Regards Ronny
11-25-2010, 07:21 AM
#3778
Recommend checking the Team Durango website "in the pits" team setups for Europe. I think I saw some astroturf setups posted on there. Wish you the best.
11-25-2010, 09:54 AM
#3779
I am building my 410R kit now but ran into a little problem. I bought the aluminum front arm mounts and steel inserts. The steel inserts are not fitting into the arm mounts deep enough it seems. I can't even use a single aluminum gold spacer (.5mm), when I do the arms bind so bad it is tough to move them up and down. Thanks in advance for the help.
11-25-2010, 09:59 AM
#3780
you should have no issues with binding what so ever. I built mine and everything was free. The front alloy arm mounts take a small black concave bushing inside to where the hinge pin seats, you need to make sure they are seated all the way in. On my car they actually sit in lose.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE!!!
HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE!!!
