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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-28-2010, 08:03 AM
  #2791  
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Originally Posted by TheFcuddy
I don't have a digital camera right now, no pics. Visualize this with the help of an exploded diagram, the rear diff slides into part#330009, parts 310006 and 310007 follow behind the diff and secure it into the assembly. The plastic ring #310039 that stabilizes the front of the diff was torqued and is now distorted. To me, it seems like the only thing minimizing up and down movement of the diff is that ring. That ring is a weak piece of plastic. If you loosen the two screws that hold parts 310006-7 a little bit you can get up and down movement on the diff if you pull on the diff outdrive. I don't understand how I might have put this car together wrong to cause this mishap.
Sounds to me like it got too hot, same thing happened to me because of binding there. Make sure there is no binding anywhere in the drivetrain, especially with a motor that powerful.
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:16 AM
  #2792  
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN
that would be nice, but would be too much $$ on unneccessary parts to make it look good.. red washers, red shock collar,

anyway i think i found a solution to wobbley outdrives by shimming the outdrives using 7x10mm shims and 5x7mm shims.

if you notice the outdrives wobble because there is alot of room under it so it can move side to side.

i noticed the outdrives have alot of play back/forwth causing the outdrives to wobble, so shimming the outdrives out so the have minimal back slop and less play, so the outdrives has less room to move side to side so it wobbles less,

also make sure the gear inside sit all the way in.

dont put the shims inside the diff as it will push the gear out more and have a gap under the gear giving room for oil to flow. put the shims outside the diff onto the outdrive to remove all the play.

combine these with the p5 orings and u should have a perfect wobbleness, leakness diff.
I started to reply to this earlier but my phone was acting up. Damn EVO.. So any way, Lil' if you were to take the space away from the assembly you are refering to it would in theory be great. BUT, you run into a problem, if things are tighter, it creates heat, wich in turn creates wear. The part you should really be concerned about is the bushing that is machined on the outdrive cup. It rides on plastic when it rotates. I have seen other manufacture's housing actually melt on this spot. Also your putting excessive strain on the bevel gears creating more heat, strain and wear. While measuring all of these pieces carefully, I have found the outdrives are undercut. which is part of the problem, also the support of the inside is non existent.
My new diff cups will fix everything, along with new outdrives. Then onto the steering.

Sorry guys, my diffs are not with me so I dont have any other pics right now.
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:32 AM
  #2793  
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I am ordering a 410r but will be adding the front aluminum suspension holders as I hear that breaks often.

My local hobby store and track doesn't carry Team Durango so I would like to know some of the basic parts I should I order to cover the most common repairs
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Old 10-28-2010, 03:07 PM
  #2794  
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Originally Posted by Photocycler
I am ordering a 410r but will be adding the front aluminum suspension holders as I hear that breaks often.

My local hobby store and track doesn't carry Team Durango so I would like to know some of the basic parts I should I order to cover the most common repairs
Get a spare bearing kit. Many guys have been getting the AVID "revolutions" I believe. (I like my Boca "greens" but are more $$).

Definitely get extra servo savers and be sure not to use as much loctite as the kit manual would suggest! Build the diffs with Kyosho P5 orange o-rings. And that is about all I know . . .
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Old 10-28-2010, 04:01 PM
  #2795  
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Originally Posted by Photocycler
I am ordering a 410r but will be adding the front aluminum suspension holders as I hear that breaks often.

My local hobby store and track doesn't carry Team Durango so I would like to know some of the basic parts I should I order to cover the most common repairs
Don t forget the pivot ball A-arm TD330037 To be able to use the aluminum suspension holders.
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Old 10-28-2010, 04:27 PM
  #2796  
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Originally Posted by Raul Garcia
I started to reply to this earlier but my phone was acting up. Damn EVO.. So any way, Lil' if you were to take the space away from the assembly you are refering to it would in theory be great. BUT, you run into a problem, if things are tighter, it creates heat, wich in turn creates wear. The part you should really be concerned about is the bushing that is machined on the outdrive cup. It rides on plastic when it rotates. I have seen other manufacture's housing actually melt on this spot. Also your putting excessive strain on the bevel gears creating more heat, strain and wear. While measuring all of these pieces carefully, I have found the outdrives are undercut. which is part of the problem, also the support of the inside is non existent.
My new diff cups will fix everything, along with new outdrives. Then onto the steering.

Sorry guys, my diffs are not with me so I dont have any other pics right now.
i dont mean shimming till its tights, still give it abit of play and still spins freely i find that stops alot of the wobble

i get what you mean by the bushings.. thats why i added shims there, and also on the other part of the outdrive so they balance out so either bits dont ride on the plastic.


Last edited by LiL_JaSoN; 10-28-2010 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:22 PM
  #2797  
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i just rebuilt my diffs that way with a 7x10 & 5x7 shim each side along witht he p5 seals..

the differences is BIG.... and the diffs feel smoother aswell..

ill let u know how it goes after a few runs.
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:35 PM
  #2798  
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN
i just rebuilt my diffs that way with a 7x10 & 5x7 shim each side along witht he p5 seals..

the differences is BIG.... and the diffs feel smoother aswell..

ill let u know how it goes after a few runs.
I am sorry if i am completely ignorant... but you put the two shims TOGETHER on the outside of the diff correct? Just trying to figure out what you mean...
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dlewis4
I am sorry if i am completely ignorant... but you put the two shims TOGETHER on the outside of the diff correct? Just trying to figure out what you mean...
this picture explains it better.



see how on the shaft there is a bushing? they are 2 different diameters.

the 5x7 shim goes right in, and the 7x10shims sits on the outter bushing.

if you look how the outdrive sit in the diff, you will get why you need the shims there... and because there is room there for it to slop side to side and back forwth.

try hold the outdrive shaft all the way in - you will notice it has minimal slop.. then pull the outdrive all the way out.. it has more slop because it has room on the side of it to slop.



i honestly almost have no side to side & back and forwth slop now... i still have ~0.1mm play so its still spins freely.
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:10 PM
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also this is another tip i have for guys running rear swaybars.. i noticed it had alot of side to side slop which made it unstable.

i put those linkage nuts in between the balls (shown on rot dots)

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Old 10-29-2010, 03:10 AM
  #2801  
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Originally Posted by pmes
Sounds to me like it got too hot, same thing happened to me because of binding there. Make sure there is no binding anywhere in the drivetrain, especially with a motor that powerful.
Thanks. I bet it did get too hot. I ordered up the parts, I will replace them and give it another go.
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Old 10-29-2010, 03:31 AM
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where do you guys measure ride height from? as there is a lip on the front and rear on the chassis.
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Old 10-29-2010, 03:46 AM
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Behind the front arms and front of the rear arms
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Old 10-29-2010, 11:13 AM
  #2804  
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I am going to be ordering one of these soon or well i should say get it for christmas or birthday, I am for sure going to buy the aluminum servo saver.. But what else? I am thinking RPM ball cups, but what size?
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Dlewis4
Behind the front arms and front of the rear arms
Right. Where the chassis is flat ya'll!
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