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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-26-2010, 02:00 PM
  #2746  
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Originally Posted by TheFcuddy
I haven't even run a full pack through the car and have experienced no big jumps or harsh jumps. The rear diff sits in the rear bulk head in a way that allows it to rock back and forth. Side to side it's solid but it can move up and down. The only thing that will stop it is that plastic ring and mine bypassed it. The car continued going but upon post run inspection I found the problem. I loosened up the screws under the shock tower, repositioned the diff and tried to get it back in the ring. I took took a medium zip tie and ran through the bulk head and over the rear diff. This should help keep the diff from rocking upwards. A friend of mine who does not own this car told me he heard about this problem. No one else has had this happen?
I have been following the thread for about 4 months since I bought the car and have not heard of this issue.
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Old 10-26-2010, 02:13 PM
  #2747  
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Originally Posted by rfleck
I have been following the thread for about 4 months since I bought the car and have not heard of this issue.
Ditto... never seen it.
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Old 10-26-2010, 03:27 PM
  #2748  
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Originally Posted by Corey Bernardo
Well after running the Durango today I must say I was impressed with how it turns and handles the bumpy stuff, freaking car turns I love it so aggressive yet easy to drive if that makes sense......May a few changes to setup but not many from kit 2010 spec... I did break one thing though and I wish they sold it in alloy, since the plastic is rather cheap... its' the rear O shaped plastic piece where the rear diff pushes through and hold the battery strap at the same time in between 2 gold shims.... Other that that, car seems pretty good. I guess the 4.5 motor was a lil too much torque for that piece thank god for zip ties for now!! ahah

Changes I will make next time are - BK bar all around instead of J-conceps Bar Codes, and perhaps a softer rear spring



PS. the Orion 4500 45c LRP combo speedo and motor where super fast! aha
I did some digging and I found one other person with this problem. Now that we have determined that I am not the only one, we can discuss good solutions. Corey, have the zip ties held up?
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Old 10-26-2010, 03:27 PM
  #2749  
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Originally Posted by Photocycler
What are some good servos you guys are using?
Futaba BLS551. Many use JR servos but need to be aware of which ones fit.
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Old 10-26-2010, 03:28 PM
  #2750  
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Durango is absolutely on fire!! I ran 6 or 7 lipo's through it today and its the best off-road car I have ever driven in my life!!! Not only is my setup even better then last week ( I will post it tonight) but it is not clicking ANYMORE under hard acceleration THANK GOD!!! I redid the diffs front and rear replacing the diff ring gears and the idler pinion..... The ticket I think that made my car better today then last week, even though I thought it was awesome last week... I changed the diff oils to 2K rear and 5K front.... I LOVE IT!!!
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Old 10-26-2010, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TheFcuddy
I did some digging and I found one other person with this problem. Now that we have determined that I am not the only one, we can discuss good solutions. Corey, have the zip ties held up?
What motor are you running? A 4.5 is insane! Looking at the car there is not much to prevent the issue you are mentioning. My guess is if you applied too much torque that "O" shaped CVD brace could certainly give way. I am actually surprised more have not had this issue. I was curious about this possibility during the build but have not any issues myself. Just leaky diffs and servo savers. Got the servo saver issue under control but have not conquered the leaky diff issue. I have the KYOSHO P5 o-rings that will likely be going in this weekend. These diffs are a little troublesome to disassemble for my liking but prefer them to the alternative . . .
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Old 10-26-2010, 04:50 PM
  #2752  
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dangerwr- yes the heavy duty black zip ties hold up perfectly if the part is not in stock... I wish they would make that rear o shaped plastic housing in alloy. The plastic is so freaking cheap!!! ahah.. but I have not broke it since I fixed it. Then again Im not really crashing anymore either... I went from a 4.5 to a 5 motor now..... I like it and run it at about 80% on the EPA
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Old 10-26-2010, 06:36 PM
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im running the rear thin sway bar and its very sloppy side to side?

is that normal?

if i tighten the set screws it just distorts and pushs that plastic thing holding the sway bar in.
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Old 10-26-2010, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TheFcuddy
I haven't even run a full pack through the car and have experienced no big jumps or harsh jumps. The rear diff sits in the rear bulk head in a way that allows it to rock back and forth. Side to side it's solid but it can move up and down. The only thing that will stop it is that plastic ring and mine bypassed it. The car continued going but upon post run inspection I found the problem. I loosened up the screws under the shock tower, repositioned the diff and tried to get it back in the ring. I took took a medium zip tie and ran through the bulk head and over the rear diff. This should help keep the diff from rocking upwards. A friend of mine who does not own this car told me he heard about this problem. No one else has had this happen?
Post pics of this, don't understand how this could even happen. Really hate to say it but sounds like the car was put together wrong
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN
im running the rear thin sway bar and its very sloppy side to side?

is that normal?

if i tighten the set screws it just distorts and pushs that plastic thing holding the sway bar in.
Ditch the sway and adjust your droop
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:30 PM
  #2756  
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dont run a sway bar! lol not needed
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN
im running the rear thin sway bar and its very sloppy side to side?

is that normal?

if i tighten the set screws it just distorts and pushs that plastic thing holding the sway bar in.
Mine doesn't move side to side. with the way it is bent from the mount going forward there shouldn't be. You don't want to "lock" it in place either.

On another note I installed the plastic side plates this week. We'll see how they work tomorrow!
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:55 PM
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ill say it has ~3mm side to side movement, pretty much the bend is wider, so the slop is between the bends.

what a waste of $40 lol.

id run it to see how it goes anyway,

how much droop are u guys running? and what springs?

im using the dark blues at front, light blues rear.. iv got the full rear set, need to get the front set

Last edited by LiL_JaSoN; 10-26-2010 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:06 PM
  #2759  
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Originally Posted by grapejuice
Post pics of this, don't understand how this could even happen. Really hate to say it but sounds like the car was put together wrong
I don't have a digital camera right now, no pics. Visualize this with the help of an exploded diagram, the rear diff slides into part#330009, parts 310006 and 310007 follow behind the diff and secure it into the assembly. The plastic ring #310039 that stabilizes the front of the diff was torqued and is now distorted. To me, it seems like the only thing minimizing up and down movement of the diff is that ring. That ring is a weak piece of plastic. If you loosen the two screws that hold parts 310006-7 a little bit you can get up and down movement on the diff if you pull on the diff outdrive. I don't understand how I might have put this car together wrong to cause this mishap.
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:07 PM
  #2760  
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Originally Posted by Konich
Mine doesn't move side to side. with the way it is bent from the mount going forward there shouldn't be. You don't want to "lock" it in place either.

On another note I installed the plastic side plates this week. We'll see how they work tomorrow!
What? You actually gonna race tomorrow?? I got something for you . . .
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