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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 09-10-2009, 08:37 AM
  #211  
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This buggy is awesome, I hope they pickup a US supplier quick.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:08 AM
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where are you guys ordering these from?
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:34 AM
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Order from Durango website.
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Old 09-12-2009, 11:52 AM
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Hey guys, my kit was missing 1 freakin part. Did anyone order a spare of 330011, the plastic shock parts? Mine was missing one of the largest of the 3 rings that goes in the bottom shock seal assembly. If you have a spare you could send me, I'd gladly pay for it. I don't have time to wait for another from the U.K.

[email protected]

Thanks
Chris
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Old 09-12-2009, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by HVAC25000
Hey guys, my kit was missing 1 freakin part. Did anyone order a spare of 330011, the plastic shock parts? Mine was missing one of the largest of the 3 rings that goes in the bottom shock seal assembly. If you have a spare you could send me, I'd gladly pay for it. I don't have time to wait for another from the U.K.

[email protected]

Thanks
Chris
Besides missing a part how was the build? How long did it take for you to get it after ordering it.
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Old 09-12-2009, 06:17 PM
  #216  
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I ordered it Monday afternoon (which means they didn't ship it until their tuesday), it was here Thursday afternoon. They charged 20usd shipping, not bad, considering it came FedEx, and made it from the U.K. to the west coast in 2 days. It was 8lbs worth of stuff. It would have cost me probably double that for someone to ship 8lbs from New York by Priority, and that would have taken a week.

Build was great. I've built a considerable number of cars, a lot more than what's in my sig, and this one was better than almost all. Only car I'd rather build is the schumacher mi-3, but that car has almost no parts.

In contrast, the dex has more parts than any car I've seen in my life. I swear it must have double the amount a B44 has. They almost all went together great though.

3 of the diff gears have to be pressed in, using a vice or what have you. The front bulkheads had to be filed a bit so the front suspension holder would push back far enough to line up with the holes in the chassis (haven't heard of anyone else having this problem). The rear arms are a bit tight and need to be sanded a little, better than having them flop back and forward. The front bumper doesn't actually extend lower than the chassis, in fact it's higher than the chassis. Fat lot of good it will do. One could probably silicone glue a b44 front bumper to the chassis though and it would work fine. I'm probably going to go try it in a few minutes.

That may seem like a lot of problems, but considering the amount of parts this thing has, the mix of aluminum, composite, and steel, and the fact that this is durango's first real production car, I think they did a great job. The rest of the entire car went together like a dream. The ball linkage system is great.

It took forever to build though, about 7 hours (and still no electronics). Double what it takes me to build something like a bj4.

The shocks are amazing. Instead of using the typical poorly designed seal system, or something like Losi's crappy plastic cartridges, they have, not sure how to explain it. Can be seen here

http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/expl...ly_Drawing.pdf

2 orings instead of 1, and part number 330023 is a red aluminum cap that holds all the rings inside the body. Way better, way more leak proof, way easier to rebuild. Instead of the piston e-cliping on to the shaft, they drilled and tapped the end of the shaft and the piston is held in with a screw. No slop, no e clips to go shooting off. The shocks are beautiful, incredibly well machined. Oh, and the thumb height adjusters have orings inside them to put a little pressure on the shock body, like a nylock nut, to stop them from moving on their own.

Of course I'm sure a lot of my happiness with the build isn't just how the build went, but with the end result. Can't wait to get electronics in it and get the body painted up.

Oh, and it weighs about 2lbs without electronics or wheels. Average weight for a 1/10 4wd buggy at this stage is only about 1.6lbs, so it does weigh quite a bit more than normal. I except it won't matter though because the performance will take the extra weight out of the equation.
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Old 09-12-2009, 06:36 PM
  #217  
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Thanks for all the info.

Does it come with the lipo weights or do you order them seperate? What extra parts would you suggest ordering with the kit? I plan to order one in a few weeks.
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Old 09-12-2009, 09:34 PM
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The lipo weights are optional, they don't come with the kit, and they run about $50 unfortunately.

I spoke with one of the team drivers who ran it at the euros a couple weeks ago on a track that was pretty rough including a quad jump. Only thing he broke all weekend was an arm. He said the crash was his fault and it was horrid, he was amazed at the durability of the car.

From having the car in hand, I believe almost nothing on this car will break. It's solid as a rock. Of course, if you hit a rock....

I'd order the usual spares though just in case.

Shock towers (may never be needed, because they're 4mm thick carbon, but just in case I got 1 of each)
Shock shafts (because if an arm breaks, sometimes these bend)
Hinge pins for the same reason.
Front and rear driveshafts for the same reason.
Wheel Axles
Front and rear hubs (the have 0 and 1 degree ones, I got some of each)
Bumpers (although I don't know how much use they will be)
Front and rear arms
Slipper clutch pad
Ball Joints

Things you might want to consider
Tuning Springs
Pivot Balls
Screws
Anything that says "pin" or "clip" in it.
Body and wing

There are no spares in the kit at all. Which I think is the stupidest thing ever, but no company puts spares with the kit. Personally, if I put out a car, a person would get the car plus AT LEAST spare screws and e clips and anything else tiny that gets lost when building the kit, pins, etc.

Since I don't know what you'll lose when you build the kit, lol, I don't know what to tell you about that screw and pivot ball business. Depends on how much money you want to spend. I ordered most of the top stuff (I forgot some bits as well like wheel axles), and ended up with a $1200 bill. If I'd bought every spare I might have needed, I'd have ended up with a $1500 bill probably.

The easiest thing would be to order all the top stuff, plus 2 cars. Then you'd guaranteed have a spare of everything. That'd be able 1800 though, lol.
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:29 PM
  #219  
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I put mine together friday night --real nice--
The drive train a little tight but I'm sure that will break in after a few packs
Will start driving tomorrow and tring to get a good starting set up for my local track-- Which is hard packed clay mix, thats usually damp to wet and med bite
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:38 PM
  #220  
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Hey Guys,

Got my kit built up, I took my time with it and my starting point is standard diff oil as per kit.
front shock oil 350 2 piston hole pistons
rear shock oil 250 3 hole pistons

Now just have to paint the body up and start cutting some laps at my local.
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:08 PM
  #221  
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HVAC and all others that have built the kit, hows the fit and finish with the arms? I noticed they use and captured style hinge pin looks real nice.
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jjdoyle
HVAC and all others that have built the kit, hows the fit and finish with the arms? I noticed they use and captured style hinge pin looks real nice.
As good or better than anything out there (even for 1/8). I really like how the pins slide into a ball which ten fits into a socket. This minimises binding if you choose to run some kick.

I keen to see how durable these cars are because everything about it screams 1/8 design and engineering.
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jjdoyle
HVAC and all others that have built the kit, hows the fit and finish with the arms? I noticed they use and captured style hinge pin looks real nice.
From my personal experience my kit had no binding on the arms and there was no need for modification.

The arms moved nice and easy first go.
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:38 PM
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Drivetrain is probably tight because of the sealed bearings, steel gears, and grease everywhere, lol. This drivetrain will never be anything close to as free as something like a bj4 or even a xxx-4.

Instead of running a 6.5. run a 5.5, lol.


Originally Posted by BRUTICAS
From my personal experience my kit had no binding on the arms and there was no need for modification.

The arms moved nice and easy first go.
Interesting. 3 of my arms are a bit tight and need to be sanded.
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BRUTICAS
Hey Guys,

Got my kit built up, I took my time with it and my starting point is standard diff oil as per kit.
front shock oil 350 2 piston hole pistons
rear shock oil 250 3 hole pistons

Now just have to paint the body up and start cutting some laps at my local.
Hey Bruticas, what wheels, esc, and batteries are those?
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