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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 09-26-2010, 09:53 PM
  #1921  
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Follow the oople guide... basically just shave the inner ring, should slide/pop right on!
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:57 PM
  #1922  
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Originally Posted by mike881
sounds good, I always build my diffs with lots of grease! I already broke the plastic thing that goes over the CVD to protect the pin from coming out....It's where the CVD and driveshaft meet and theres a pin in there, does that make sense I don't think its a big deal... but I still broke it. How did you guys get those on there, it was freakin hard for the first one which luckily didnt break
Yeah, I followed the Oople guide to put those on but the rear one rubbed the battery strap so I cut 'em off. Use heat shrink if you are worried about that pin coming out . . .

Did you get batteries yet?
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Old 09-26-2010, 10:05 PM
  #1923  
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Nope no batteries, what'd u get? Too bad I can't use the hobbyking batteries...
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Old 09-26-2010, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mike881
Nope no batteries, what'd u get? Too bad I can't use the hobbyking batteries...
I got Team Orion 4600. Just make sure they are under 25mm tall. The Racer's Edge and Pro/Tek 5200mAh will also fit.
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Old 09-26-2010, 10:22 PM
  #1925  
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On stormer hobbies they have Losi 4800mah 20c for 59.99, I could pick up 2 of those for a little over one racers edge. U think 20c is enough considering a 7.5 is plenty of power anyways
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Old 09-26-2010, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mike881
On stormer hobbies they have Losi 4800mah 20c for 59.99, I could pick up 2 of those for a little over one racers edge. U think 20c is enough considering a 7.5 is plenty of power anyways
Honestly, you would need to know the amp draw of that motor to know if 20C is enuff. I am surprised they are still selling 20C batteries. I would suspect that you would want 35C or better but this is just an opinion.

Also you might need 2 sets of the Losi batteries to do the same job--who knows. I have no experience with the Losi batteries tho.
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Old 09-26-2010, 11:17 PM
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The 35C 4200 Reedy has a height of 23.2mm supposedly. There are no dimensions listed for the 40C 4200 Reedy.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5C-74V-4200mAh


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...0C-74V-4200mAh
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Old 09-26-2010, 11:59 PM
  #1928  
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i'm not sure about the rear outer aluminum suspension holder..i mean wich one between 4 or 2...stock one is a 4 so..didnt race the car yet so any advice if someone try both?! thx guys!
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:01 AM
  #1929  
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Use the 4, seems to give the rear more traction than the 2
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by dangerwr
Do you run the plastic chassis braces? I would. I am not surprised if one could burn through a set of tires in a week with this car. Are you spinning a lot? What motor do you run?
I have the plastic sides and rear brace, but the car is dialed so I rather just put new tires on every week. I'm running a 7.5 LRP and its dam quick. As the tire's wear it seems the handling drops off. New tires this thing is a slot car!

I might start with the plastic side braces and make small changes so its a little more consistant as the tires wear.
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mike881
sounds good, I always build my diffs with lots of grease! I already broke the plastic thing that goes over the CVD to protect the pin from coming out....It's where the CVD and driveshaft meet and theres a pin in there, does that make sense I don't think its a big deal... but I still broke it. How did you guys get those on there, it was freakin hard for the first one which luckily didnt break
I don't use those, with how the new cvd pins are cut out for the set screw, you will notice it coming loose before it comes out, just make sure to red lock tight the set screw.

I remember my bearing fit really tight for the steering, just work with it for a bit to get it to go on. I would just try sanding down the first bit of that shaft and see if it will go on.
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:23 AM
  #1932  
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Originally Posted by majorsmx521
hey guys has anyone tried the 1 deg rear hubs?
looking for a little more side grip?
and what are the pros and cons?
thanks
Rob
I have them on right now. Call me crazy but it sure seems like the 1deg hubs didn't actually add toe.

Anyway, I have a machinist buddy working on some 2 degree hubs right now
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:45 AM
  #1933  
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Are you sure they're on the right way? Doesn't Durango go about the whole left and ride ordeal differently than everybody else (looking from the front of the car)?

What's the consensus on the ballcup/stud issue? Are the 2 piece ballstuds worth keeping on the car? I assembled mine using the Durango threadlock and I've had 2 come apart on me, but since going back over them with the good stuff it's been ok. I'd hate to have a DNF because of this. Are there alternatives to the overpriced AE TC5 studs?
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Old 09-27-2010, 11:06 AM
  #1934  
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Default Solution to potential leaking diffs - give feedback?

Ok, so I followed the advise of using green slime on the diff xrings. They last me about 2 races then the start to develop leaks.

So, I picked up some orings from the local hardware store (basically eyeballed them to be slightly bigger than the diameter of the xrings). I installed them and tried them out in the rear diff (not sucsessful and started leaking within about 10 mins of runtime), but I also slapped in some Kyosho P5 orings
[KYOORG05]) in the front diff and so far problem solved!

Now granted, only one race with quite a bit of practice, but no leaks. Anyone else tried these?

Last edited by rfleck; 09-27-2010 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 09-27-2010, 11:07 AM
  #1935  
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Originally Posted by JoeNolasco
I have them on right now. Call me crazy but it sure seems like the 1deg hubs didn't actually add toe.

Anyway, I have a machinist buddy working on some 2 degree hubs right now
What is stock toe in? 3deg?
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