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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 08-31-2022, 08:18 AM
  #18421  
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scooped one of these buggies super cheap with a ton of spares. I managed to make a shorty battery conversion where the battery sits in the back, but there is a serious lack of weight without a saddle battery.

So I swapped the center slipper around and had to reverse the diffs.... the buggy drives fairly well. I hadn't timed any laps with just the shorty in the back as I did not own a transponder at the time. I did buy one after doing this mod and with my crappy driving my fastest lap was 18.0 seconds flat and usually 18.2, 18.4........The fast guys are around 16.5/17.0 seconds.

I swapped it back to the original lay out with just a shorty in the back and I added 90g of lead a few days ago. I will be hitting the track in a week to see if it makes any difference in lap times.

one thought is that almost every 1/10 4wd buggy has the motor and battery on opposite sides. My non engineering mind thinks its to do with the rotational direction of the diffs.... likely the same feelings you get going from a 4 gear to 3 gear transmission in a 2wd buggy. anyways, thought I'd share some pics. this buggy has been fun to work on. It must have been so far ahead of its competition when it came out 10+ years ago.


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Old 08-31-2022, 09:26 AM
  #18422  
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First off, this buggy is tried and true and is the buggy MOST current wheelers are based on. It is still one of, if not the easiest buggy to work on and the quick release center slipper is the greatest thing since sliced bread. That said, you donít need to be experimenting with swapping diffs or changing the layout at all. The 410 is perfectly balanced with either saddle packs or a shorty. What you do want are the aluminum 19* blocks up front from either Durango or from Tresrey IF you can find them!

Exotek made a few killer parts for this buggy as well so check their site too.

DO NOT opt for the center gear diff as this car works best With the slipper, but I would suggest you go with the centered shorty using foam pads on either side so you can swap between battery configurations based on the track youíre running on. If itís high bite, run the shorty, if itís looser or has more sharp corners, go with the saddles.

I would suggest you flip the motor over to the front left for the best front/rear balance as well as youíll see the car respond like lightning in that configuration.

The last race I ran with mine was the JConcepts super cup in 2013 or 2014 and the track was mixed between loose and good bit in small patches and while everyone struggled, I was ripping away and got top qualifyer and was going to win the event, right up until we got rained out!

It is the best racing 4WD buggy ever engineered and thatís why itís been copied by so many and is sold as a high-end ďLUXURYĒ kit by some. I bought a hobby pro wheeler after this and while it also borrowed from it heavily, it was nowhere near in the same league. The Yokomo wheelers are where itís at, but you also canít go wrong with the Associated or Losi Wheelers.

so enjoy this beats while you have enough spares to run it, but if you think youíre good enough, go race it and see how EASY it is to drive on the limit in both modified and 13.5 classes.
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Old 08-31-2022, 09:36 AM
  #18423  
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thanks for that. I did buy a set of durango alum hubs. 19 degrees..... I do have a ton of regrets selling a dex210 a few years ago. These durangos are just fantastic to work on.

magyvered up some 12mm hexes for the front, the rear was easy. I will snap a few more pics when I'm home from work, but it is back in it's original configuration +lead.

i am very surprised that you say it's fine with just a shorty weight wise. Saddle packs are hard to find, which is why I opted adding in 90g of lead. it currently has the brass weight for under the chassis and it's 30g. I THOUGHT it needed the weight in the back to be balanced, but I will try running it with and without the 90g.
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Old 09-01-2022, 04:53 PM
  #18424  
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I agree with Incubus, the DEX410 is amazing.
I recently rebuilt mine and far out its fast still (I ran mod with it). It has so much you can tune too ( which is dangerous too, you can make it too easy to drive, not easy to drive fast, like all cars i guess).

I found on our track i've had to reduce its massive droop a little but its super easy to do. I run the standard layout with a standard LRP5800 battery running long ways with a few foams on each side to keep it in place. So easy to drive and takes everything in its stride. ( My main car is a Schumacher L1 and previous to that Yokomo YZ-4SF ).
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Old 09-02-2022, 01:55 AM
  #18425  
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I had the full weight kit for this car and only ran the rear skid plate underneath and it was perfect! I tried the side weights but it caused too much roll and on high bite you WILL traction roll!!!

You only need to play with the slipper adjustment to dial this car in once the trannies are built and lubed properly. And once you get it right youíll find you can punch the throttle as necessary once you learn the responsive characteristics of this car. The reason you donít want to add more eight is because you can really control pitch in the air much better, and youíre better served by getting a really good rear wing that produces solid downforce. The absolute best 1/10 wing was the Upgrade RC Vortex, but I understand theyíre no longer around, so look for something along those lines. A bit more downforce than stock associated wings is what you want.

Lastly, youíll want the proper tires for your local tracks. I find this car does excellent on either JConcept and panther tires, and remember the panther tires are REAL rubber so theyíll offer a little more immediate feedback on how your car responds to input. And the stock body is excellent so stick with that, but be sure to drill 3 holes in the flat front upper edges and then drill 3 holes on the backside of the side pods to create a channel of sweeping air to keep things cool.
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Old 09-03-2022, 01:52 PM
  #18426  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
DO NOT opt for the center gear diff as this car works best With the slipper, but I would suggest you go with the centered shorty using foam pads on either side so you can swap between battery configurations based on the track youíre running on. If itís high bite, run the shorty, if itís looser or has more sharp corners, go with the saddles.
What brand is currently still producing some modern saddle packs? Seems that most of the major brands have just gone for shorties...
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Old 09-03-2022, 05:44 PM
  #18427  
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Gen Ace, Max Amps, HPI, Venom (my personal
choice for batteries), LRP, Turnigy, and a few others Iím sure.

JUST STAY AWAY FROM REEDY AND ASSOCIATED WOKFF OACKS! They downright SUCK!!! Theyíll work ok initially but soon after they begin to discharge rapidly and overheat and sometimes blow right up. At least that was my experience with the ones I had.

if you can find Zombie batteries, theyíre Ali excellent batteries.
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Old 09-04-2022, 10:13 AM
  #18428  
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thanks for the feedback incubus. I removed 45g of lead, and will start with that.
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Old 09-04-2022, 04:56 PM
  #18429  
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  • Gen Ace is not proposing Saddle anymore (at least I cannot find anything looking like a saddle on their website)
  • Max amps seems to have some saddle, but not rigid.
  • HPI saddle are rated 95C, but are not very good at IR
  • Venom are "only" 4500mAh, is it enough for mod motors?
  • LRP are no longer in stock
  • Turnigy are 5100mAh but 2S3P, plus I already have critical dropping voltage with Nano-tech lipos
Thank you for your proposals, but I think I will stay on my Intellect shorties for now, even if I have to add some weight in the rear...
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Old 09-06-2022, 07:16 PM
  #18430  
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well here is what the buggy looks like with a shorty. It's somewhat of a pain to change batteries, but its just two screws on the right hand side. One holding the battery in the brace, and theres a spacer and another screw under neath. it swings out towards the center diff.

the lead strip is 45g. The 12mm hexes are some cheap ass 12mm hexes from aliexpress that were sanded down to be able to fit common 12mm wheels. The spacer is from the vintage losi xx/xxx series of buggies.




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Old 01-10-2023, 07:29 AM
  #18431  
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I'm trying to restore/upgrade a DEX410v4 that is in great shape to begin with, and I'm looking for advise on a few fit and finish things..

1. the shock pistons seem to not be a great fit inside the shock bodies which allows for shock shaft wobble, so I'm wondering if there were ever aftermarket machined pistons available for Durango BB shocks? The few I've found reference to via searching are seemingly completely wiped from internet history..

2. was it pretty common for the bleed screw of the TD aluminum shock caps to strip out? I saw a comment in another thread that this was the case.. Any good way to fix this? I've ordered a thread repair kit (helicoil style) to try, but I'm wondering if anyone has just tried M2.2 or 2-56 (and if a tap was required or if they just happen to thread in well)..?

UPDATE: I used new BB pistons - they measure 12.3mm and the ID of the shock bodies is a tiny bit larger (the fit isn't as tight as other brands' shocks - so I'm wondering if there was ever a better fit piston available). The lower seal/cartridge bits seems very new and not obviously worn.

Last edited by 4WDriver; 01-11-2023 at 07:07 AM. Reason: added details
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Old 01-10-2023, 05:21 PM
  #18432  
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My pistons don't seem very loose, but maybe the guide ( the plastic white spacer in the bottom ) is worn or the inner of the shock is. There are two sizes of pistons, so make sure you've got the big bore ones.
I believe you can also use Losi 22 big bore pistons ( potentially not their latest line, but the ones that came with the 22 3.0 and 4.0 all metal shocks ).

I've yet to strip out a bleed screw, but they are tiny so i guess its easy to do! I used bigger hex head screws for easy of use which give you an little extra sealing, but sadly it might be you just need new caps or try a 2.5mm screw. Can't get any worse?
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Old 01-28-2023, 12:28 PM
  #18433  
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Update:
- The shock shaft wobble is in part due to the lower cartridge parts. Tolerances there are not tight. But this roller I acquired looks barely used, so not sure if this is factory loose, or worn. I'm looking for new cartridge insert parts for the big bores.. I might have some Ghea pistons on the way so, they may provide a better fit on that end.
- I managed to get M2 inserts in to the aluminum shock caps. It was a bit of anxious work with these tiny parts and tools and trying to align it all, not damage anything, get the tang out, clean all the aluminum shavings out.. But it seems to be very strong.


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Old 01-29-2023, 11:06 AM
  #18434  
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Old 01-29-2023, 03:11 PM
  #18435  
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Even got the rubber boots on! Very clean!
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