Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread >

Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Like Tree22Likes

Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 03-13-2017, 05:07 PM
  #18361  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (137)
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The 808
Posts: 3,286
Trader Rating: 137 (99%+)
Default

What servo arms are you guys using? The stock plastic or aluminum? What brand aluminum arm?
BJT2814 is offline  
Old 03-14-2017, 06:33 AM
  #18362  
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 34,387
Trader Rating: 294 (100%+)
Default

From what I recall before selling, I think the Racers Edge alumininum servo arms can be made to work. You may need to do some shimming on the ball stud to get proper clearance angle.
Cain is offline  
Old 03-14-2017, 12:30 PM
  #18363  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 318
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I stripped the stock plastic one so i'm using a exotec black aluminum horn.
daedalus is offline  
Old 06-18-2017, 03:32 PM
  #18364  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 28
Default

Hi Guys!
I hope all is good and thanks in advance for helping me out

I am rather new to the electric stuff, and i bought some used products, and am trying to assemble a DEX 410 system.

I have a LRP SXX TC Spec and a motor from which i don't know the turns :P

What i do know is that by running it with a 19 x 87 in a small lawn field, the ESC got hot as hell after like 5 minutes, the motor as well (although less) and the chassis too.

I dont have a temp gun yet, but the 5 second trick showed me they were too hot.
Anyway, i am thinking of getting a new motor for it and would like your advice, do you think a 7.5 or 8.5 would do it ? (from hobby king)

turnigy-trackstar-8-5t-sensored-brushless-motor-4620kv-roar-approved

1 - any advice on the wiring ? (size and gauge)
2 - should/must i get a fan for motor and or ESC ?
3 - i canīt seem to get under 19T cause the pinion won't reach the spur (right?)
4 - after i get my temp gun, what temp you think i should look for in the motor and ESC ?
5 - a more general question , what should i look for on a motor (regarding specs like amps and stuff) vs an ESC (how many amps it should handle), and if by any chance you happen to know these specs for the LRP SXX TC Spec.

Thanks once more
Looking forward for your suggestions
enzyme is offline  
Old 06-18-2017, 08:39 PM
  #18365  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
Reflexia's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,429
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Grab a fan for the ESC (if you can fit it). There is very little air passing over that ESC in the 410, so it will get hot. Some people mount a fan between the esc are and the motor also to cool the motor on long runs. Its fairly easy either with double sided tape or a DIY right angle mount.

Temps over 70'c are getting up there, escs shouldn't really be super hot either, but I've not had anything really cooking for a while. maybe 50'c ? (someone else can help there perhaps ). 5 second rule seems the easiest there

Motor wise If you're racing, depends on your track. if you're bashing, 8.5 is plenty of motor to go around.

Note : Running on grass/tarmac will make the car work harder ( more traction/resistance ) so it will get hotter vs say free running on dirt.

If you're getting a Trackstar I'd get

TrackStar 8.5T Sensored Brushless Motor V2 3807KV (ROAR approved

Instead, its more torque not rpm ( better for 4wd ).

You will need a different spur to get lower pinions. 20t should be fine however for fun. Racing might need more/less depending on the track. Getting a 2nd lower teeth spur might also allow better combinations down the track.

common motor/esc wires are 12/14 guage and you want a good silicone type (very bendy one ). HK sells pretty good stuff, so does pretty much every hobby store and motor brand .

There will not be much room in the 410, so neatness and short length is essential. (check out builds previously posted in this thread or google ).

Can't see much specs on the ESC you have (amain's page quick look), but its way low on the turns ( so its easy able to handle any off road motor ). I useually use a 120A ESC for mod 4wd.

Modern brushless motors are 'sensored' and then they have fake 'turn' rating , which is what we used to use before brushless. Its really a KV range.

Get yourself a good set of Saddles with high C discharge rate ( NanoTech Ultimates saddles are pretty good ). two sets of those, and you're good to go. You can run a shorty to reduce weight with some modification, but its not something you want to do right out of the blocks

Hope that helps.


Originally Posted by enzyme
Hi Guys!
I hope all is good and thanks in advance for helping me out

I am rather new to the electric stuff, and i bought some used products, and am trying to assemble a DEX 410 system.

I have a LRP SXX TC Spec and a motor from which i don't know the turns :P

What i do know is that by running it with a 19 x 87 in a small lawn field, the ESC got hot as hell after like 5 minutes, the motor as well (although less) and the chassis too.

I dont have a temp gun yet, but the 5 second trick showed me they were too hot.
Anyway, i am thinking of getting a new motor for it and would like your advice, do you think a 7.5 or 8.5 would do it ? (from hobby king)

turnigy-trackstar-8-5t-sensored-brushless-motor-4620kv-roar-approved

1 - any advice on the wiring ? (size and gauge)
2 - should/must i get a fan for motor and or ESC ?
3 - i canīt seem to get under 19T cause the pinion won't reach the spur (right?)
4 - after i get my temp gun, what temp you think i should look for in the motor and ESC ?
5 - a more general question , what should i look for on a motor (regarding specs like amps and stuff) vs an ESC (how many amps it should handle), and if by any chance you happen to know these specs for the LRP SXX TC Spec.

Thanks once more
Looking forward for your suggestions
Reflexia is offline  
Old 06-19-2017, 05:41 PM
  #18366  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 28
Default

Thanks Reflexia

Great input !!!

I will start by adding a fan seems the right thing to do and should fit, but i donīt know if it has enough height though ...

Regarding temp, the 5 second trick did tell me it was too hot In any case, i am getting a thermometer too, thinking of buying the HK white pencil thing. Should do the trick and also provide me with more information!
Anyone tried it ?

In any case, is there any particular thing that makes an ESC too hot ?

Iīm bashing, most of the time yes, but there is a short track in my city with a couple of jumps so should also go there once in a while... why did you ask if i was racing ? legal limitations ? you told me about the 8.5 with 3.8 KV, do you think amp-wise is adequate to my ESC?

Regarding the spur, i might not need it if i change the motor, right ?
With that motor and a 19 or 20T pinion should keep things a bit cooler... am i thinking correctly ? If i program my ESC to be more progressive in initial acceleration, given the grass has a lot of grip, do you think it will ease the strain on the electronics and therefore keep them cooler ?
What about the slip clutch ? Same effect ?

I will check the cables (if you think it makes a difference in heating?)

My saddles are Gens Ace 4800 30-60C > any good ?

Now for a final question that i didnīt put up earlier. My 410 was making a grindy cracking noise when i had it in my hand, with just a bit of speed... like, the noises were not periodic, but frequent if you know what i mean.
I assumed it had something to do with the transmission rods and/or diffs, so i disassembled all the transmission and found a couple of worn teeth in the bigger wheel outside the diff. I changed it and am now going to reassemble the kit. Hope it makes a difference... any experience with this ?
Anyway my question is, how grindy and noisy should this car be (i own a pan car and of course itīs completely silent when running with the wheels of the ground) ... is it supposed to sound smooth ?

A new final question though ... how much grease should i put between the front and transmission rod tooth wheels, and the main diff wheel ? just a bit to keep it lubbed? or shall i put plenty inside ?

Sorry for bothering you with so much stuff, but i am new to offroad electric, and to be honest, not many people around here use them (more into the asphalt track)

Thank you once again for your help!

Cheers from Portugal




Originally Posted by Reflexia
Grab a fan for the ESC (if you can fit it). There is very little air passing over that ESC in the 410, so it will get hot. Some people mount a fan between the esc are and the motor also to cool the motor on long runs. Its fairly easy either with double sided tape or a DIY right angle mount.

Temps over 70'c are getting up there, escs shouldn't really be super hot either, but I've not had anything really cooking for a while. maybe 50'c ? (someone else can help there perhaps ). 5 second rule seems the easiest there

Motor wise If you're racing, depends on your track. if you're bashing, 8.5 is plenty of motor to go around.

Note : Running on grass/tarmac will make the car work harder ( more traction/resistance ) so it will get hotter vs say free running on dirt.

If you're getting a Trackstar I'd get

TrackStar 8.5T Sensored Brushless Motor V2 3807KV (ROAR approved

Instead, its more torque not rpm ( better for 4wd ).

You will need a different spur to get lower pinions. 20t should be fine however for fun. Racing might need more/less depending on the track. Getting a 2nd lower teeth spur might also allow better combinations down the track.

common motor/esc wires are 12/14 guage and you want a good silicone type (very bendy one ). HK sells pretty good stuff, so does pretty much every hobby store and motor brand .

There will not be much room in the 410, so neatness and short length is essential. (check out builds previously posted in this thread or google ).

Can't see much specs on the ESC you have (amain's page quick look), but its way low on the turns ( so its easy able to handle any off road motor ). I useually use a 120A ESC for mod 4wd.

Modern brushless motors are 'sensored' and then they have fake 'turn' rating , which is what we used to use before brushless. Its really a KV range.

Get yourself a good set of Saddles with high C discharge rate ( NanoTech Ultimates saddles are pretty good ). two sets of those, and you're good to go. You can run a shorty to reduce weight with some modification, but its not something you want to do right out of the blocks

Hope that helps.
enzyme is offline  
Old 06-19-2017, 06:25 PM
  #18367  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
Reflexia's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,429
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Those little pen Thermometers are fine if you can get close to what you want to test ( so in the DEX410, this is not an issue ). I use the little Black one, which looks like a car fob.

The laser guided ones offer a little more distance, allowing you to measure through say the waterfall of a 2wd mid-mount car.

ESCs are the conduit for all the power from the battery. If your motor draws a lot of current, but is not able to expend it all smoothly, it will have to do more work ( gross simplification ).

Its highly dependant on gearing and 'punch'.

If you are asking it to accelerate from nothing to full, the motor/esc settings might not match and it will be harder to accelerate. ( this can be mitigated a little by changing your 'punch' settings). Not sure if you have a dual stage punch setting on the LRP ( have not used one of those specificially ), but that can still give you good acceleration without wasting power. ( so have it on something like low/moderate then high for instance as the 2nd stage ). If it only has a single, having it on 'high' will cause the esc to be hotter, as its doing more work. ( doesn't try to get the car rolling with lower power then give it the beans ).

If you were racing, the motors size and pinion combo becomes more important ( jumping, corner speed, size of track etc ).

Your ESC says it has a 3 turn limit ( ie it can push a Dual pole motor ~6000kv motor ). Your 8.5 or a 6.5 should be well within its limits, which is what you want.

The slipper is protection for your drive train and to stop your wheels breaking traction. Having it too loose (especially in the Dex410 where the slipper pads are crazy thin) will result in a melting spur .

If you are on dirt, the slipper is 'nearly' useless, lock it up tight. If you are on high grip, you probably want it to slip a little ( be aware that more slip, more heat on plastic spur) to remove some of the resistance and allow the motor to spin up. We're talking 1/2 to 1/4 turn adjustments, very fine.

Get a known size motor, and then test from there

If the cables look like they are fairly thick (probably the ones that came with the ESC ) and they are not hot by touch, should be fine. They should be around the same diameter as the gold plugs they solder into on the esc or bigger.

Another thing to check is the sensor cable. If that's not in good shape (any one cable on it broken/freyed) the motor will not be performing as well (that cable tells the ESC where the motor's poles are positioned so it can apply power at the right time) and both motor and ESC will get hot.

Those diff 'ring' gears on early cars can loose teeth. The later 'machined' ones are stronger. If you've replaced them they should be fine. Slow rotation of the drive train will show them up ( it will click or lock slightly ).

4WD offroad cars are a bit noisy. There are several sets of dog bones which rattle in their out-drives and they have lots of gears The DEX410 is not the worst, but if some of the dog bones are worn, it can make it more noisy. Also the out drives can get little notches in them, which makes it worse. Dogbones should have rount pins on their ends into the outdrives ( diff end ). Otherwise they will wobble around more.

You can put a light amount of grease on the ring gear and crown gears if you like. I use Eureka Gear lube but normal Ball diff white lube is fine too. Too much and you will cause more friction. Making the two gears mesh is really important. The manual shows you how to align them correctly (the little set screw creates the gap for the bearings). If you can't find a 'best' mesh (less clicking at low speed) perhaps the diff housings have become to warped/soft and needs replacing.

It also uses CVDs for the wheels and possibly the central shafts ( unless yours has the universals ). These have a little tube and pin inside which can get worn and cause more wobbles. Also bearings on the diffs and spur are important for that too (as well as freeing up the drive train, less resistance). With the pinion disconnected, the car should free wheel pretty well (wheels off the ground obviously).

30C batteries are not terrible :-) With the 8.5t you should be 'ok'. If they start getting hot, they are not up to the task for modern electrics (which are now able to transfer massive amps unlike previous generations). Higher rated cells will give you more power in your punch, but what you don't know won't harm you

Good luck!




Originally Posted by enzyme
Thanks Reflexia

Great input !!!

I will start by adding a fan seems the right thing to do and should fit, but i donīt know if it has enough height though ...

Regarding temp, the 5 second trick did tell me it was too hot In any case, i am getting a thermometer too, thinking of buying the HK white pencil thing. Should do the trick and also provide me with more information!
Anyone tried it ?

In any case, is there any particular thing that makes an ESC too hot ?

Iīm bashing, most of the time yes, but there is a short track in my city with a couple of jumps so should also go there once in a while... why did you ask if i was racing ? legal limitations ? you told me about the 8.5 with 3.8 KV, do you think amp-wise is adequate to my ESC?

Regarding the spur, i might not need it if i change the motor, right ?
With that motor and a 19 or 20T pinion should keep things a bit cooler... am i thinking correctly ? If i program my ESC to be more progressive in initial acceleration, given the grass has a lot of grip, do you think it will ease the strain on the electronics and therefore keep them cooler ?
What about the slip clutch ? Same effect ?

I will check the cables (if you think it makes a difference in heating?)

My saddles are Gens Ace 4800 30-60C > any good ?

Now for a final question that i didnīt put up earlier. My 410 was making a grindy cracking noise when i had it in my hand, with just a bit of speed... like, the noises were not periodic, but frequent if you know what i mean.
I assumed it had something to do with the transmission rods and/or diffs, so i disassembled all the transmission and found a couple of worn teeth in the bigger wheel outside the diff. I changed it and am now going to reassemble the kit. Hope it makes a difference... any experience with this ?
Anyway my question is, how grindy and noisy should this car be (i own a pan car and of course itīs completely silent when running with the wheels of the ground) ... is it supposed to sound smooth ?

A new final question though ... how much grease should i put between the front and transmission rod tooth wheels, and the main diff wheel ? just a bit to keep it lubbed? or shall i put plenty inside ?

Sorry for bothering you with so much stuff, but i am new to offroad electric, and to be honest, not many people around here use them (more into the asphalt track)

Thank you once again for your help!

Cheers from Portugal
enzyme likes this.
Reflexia is offline  
Old 07-13-2017, 04:04 AM
  #18368  
Tech Regular
 
stehl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: In, On or around a computer
Posts: 346
Default

I have aquired a DEX410v3. I am having a hard time finding anyone who has parts for it. so, I know its an older car, but does anyone know if the v4 or v5 parts are cross compatable? If so which ones? if not , does anyone have a source on a parts supplier for the v3.

Thanks
stehl is offline  
Old 07-13-2017, 04:05 AM
  #18369  
Tech Regular
 
stehl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: In, On or around a computer
Posts: 346
Default parts

I have aquired a DEX410v3. I am having a hard time finding anyone who has parts for it. so, I know its an older car, but does anyone know if the v4 or v5 parts are cross compatable? If so which ones? if not , does anyone have a source on a parts supplier for the v3.

Thanks
stehl is offline  
Old 07-13-2017, 04:12 AM
  #18370  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
Reflexia's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,429
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by stehl
I have aquired a DEX410v3. I am having a hard time finding anyone who has parts for it. so, I know its an older car, but does anyone know if the v4 or v5 parts are cross compatable? If so which ones? if not , does anyone have a source on a parts supplier for the v3.

Thanks
The dex410 v3 and v4 are pretty much the same. Just upgraded.
V5 is a different beast.few overlaps in the front, but mostly different.

Hope that helps.
Reflexia is offline  
Old 07-13-2017, 04:15 AM
  #18371  
Tech Regular
 
stehl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: In, On or around a computer
Posts: 346
Default

actually helps alot. I appreciate it.

Do you happen to know which parts do not cross between the v3 & v4 ?

or could i potentially upgrade the v3 to the v4 by converting it?
stehl is offline  
Old 07-13-2017, 05:15 AM
  #18372  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
Reflexia's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,429
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by stehl
actually helps alot. I appreciate it.

Do you happen to know which parts do not cross between the v3 & v4 ?

or could i potentially upgrade the v3 to the v4 by converting it?
You absolutely could upgrade your v3 with v4 parts. The only pain area is if you want to use the dual slipper (not really an amazing upgrade), I think you need to upgrade the cvd central drive shafts to the universals from the v4 due to length but I could be wrong

Otherwise pretty much everything v4 treat as an upgrade to the v3.

Upgrades I recommend are the universal front drive shafts and replace your diff housings ( the covers for the diffs). The newer ones are harder, less warping, run better.

They may be 'old' cars but I still love how they drive.
Reflexia is offline  
Old 07-17-2017, 01:05 PM
  #18373  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Tyler, Texas
Posts: 256
Default

There's a cross reference chart on Durango's website that shows which parts fit which model
blankenj99 is offline  
Old 09-24-2017, 11:11 AM
  #18374  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
 
platgof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,507
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Do they universal drive shafts stop the shafts from popping out when racing due to chassis flex?
platgof is offline  
Old 10-01-2017, 04:02 PM
  #18375  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
 
platgof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,507
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I am looking at running this on carpet. I have a Tekin 7.5 in it. The local guys are pretty fast.
platgof is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.