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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 05-04-2015, 06:41 PM
  #17896  
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You can also get the SMC square packs for a very good price, and a whole lot less hassle than saddle packs. These batteries were made for this car. I am using an 8.5 after trying everything else, and I find it has plenty of power, and smoother as well. I tried a 5 turn, and it was ferocious. I am running Electrons on the front, and Ions on the rear.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:23 PM
  #17897  
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You can also use a shorty lipo which is much lighter than saddles which keeps the weight down if you run in the stock class
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:38 PM
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I've notice the drivetrain is noisy where I can hear it when the car comes close. And at the joint in the rear where it bends, it will get super hot. Normal?
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:58 PM
  #17899  
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Originally Posted by Airlmeier4422
I've notice the drivetrain is noisy where I can hear it when the car comes close. And at the joint in the rear where it bends, it will get super hot. Normal?
Is your buggy a v4? If not, DJoint or UJ driveshafts help with freeing up the drive train.
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Old 05-05-2015, 06:09 AM
  #17900  
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It's a v3. So my next question is anyone have universal joints for sale? Preferably just the centers..
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Old 05-05-2015, 06:46 PM
  #17901  
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I thought you had to add extra parts to run the center u joints.
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Old 05-05-2015, 10:03 PM
  #17902  
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Originally Posted by platgof
I thought you had to add extra parts to run the center u joints.
Just need to change your battery brace to the type B part or modify your existing one.
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Old 05-07-2015, 03:21 PM
  #17903  
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Too easy!
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Old 05-12-2015, 11:16 AM
  #17904  
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What is everyone's take on the f&r u joints. I've heard that they improve corner bit but are mostly used on bumpy tracks. I run on a high grip smooth carpet track. Do u think I would bennifit from them or are she stock parts better for my type of track?
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Old 05-12-2015, 06:41 PM
  #17905  
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I am running both and don't bother with the fronts unless you get the 21* hubs. i had way to much steering without the 21* hubs. Now it handles great because of the 21* hubs.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:24 PM
  #17906  
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Speaking of hubs, I have an old 410R that has 14mm hex. I am a noob with no experience in mounting my tires. I cannot find anyone that sells premounted. I bought some new wheels and tires, but then had no idea about foam. Great learning experience that's for sure.

So this leaves me with a couple of questions: 1.) Do the newer versions have standard size hubs to buy standard proline or similar wheels and tires. 2.) can I buy a set of v4 hubs if that is the case? 3.) other suggestions to make my life easier.

I don't race just run around on local tracks. Once I get some more experience I hope to upgrade to a newer version or even a DEX8 or 8T.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:19 PM
  #17907  
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If you want to run ae or tlr wheels all u need to get is a 12mm hex conversion. I think exotek makes them or u might be able to just buy the ae or tlr plastic ones. Maby somebody else can chime in here cause I just use the durango wheels.

But for what you are doing I would just use the foams that come with the tires, glue them up and go have some fun. No need for expensive closed cells if you aren't a serious racer.

Hope that helps ya out.
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Old 05-13-2015, 08:16 AM
  #17908  
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I use Hot Bodies D413 12mm hexes on my DEX410 to use 12mm hex wheels.
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Old 05-13-2015, 09:41 AM
  #17909  
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Originally Posted by Sodakota
What is everyone's take on the f&r u joints. I've heard that they improve corner bit but are mostly used on bumpy tracks. I run on a high grip smooth carpet track. Do u think I would bennifit from them or are she stock parts better for my type of track?
Running the universals will give you more side bite on which ever side you put it on. Normally I would suggest just the rears on a stock v4, to gain you more rear side bite. The universals also work better on bumpy tracks and as well as help cornering speed.
If you do decide to run universals up front, it will give you A LOT more steering, which is why most people use the 21 caster blocks to tame it down on dirt or clay. .

If you are running on carpet, you don't need the universals in the rear. It will reduce your steering. Either run the stock CVDs or run universals all the way around. If you are using universals on carpet, you will notice more cornering speed and more side traction overall, but you will have to adjust the setup slightly to adjust for the handling of the car. The car will roll more in corners running universals especially when off throttle or coasting so you will have to adjust your roll centers slightly by raising the roll centers. eg Lowering the inner links. CVD tend to straighten on acceleration which will reduce roll and sqaut the car down. Universals will not do this. So run more anti squat 1.5 to 3 degrees and adjust to give you the rotation that you require on high grip.
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Old 05-13-2015, 10:20 AM
  #17910  
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Originally Posted by Sodakota
If you want to run ae or tlr wheels all u need to get is a 12mm hex conversion. I think exotek makes them or u might be able to just buy the ae or tlr plastic ones. Maby somebody else can chime in here cause I just use the durango wheels.

But for what you are doing I would just use the foams that come with the tires, glue them up and go have some fun. No need for expensive closed cells if you aren't a serious racer.

Hope that helps ya out.
Thanks for the feedback. Since this is my only Team Durango car I cannot use them elsewhere is the main reason. The second reason is I cannot find anything prebuilt. I will be building a set tonight and see how it goes. Run on backyard / homemade tracks. If I buy a newer version (410v4) I don't want to have a bunch of wheels I cannot reuse. I could not find this in their specification sheets anywhere.
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