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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 04-08-2015, 07:08 PM
  #17851  
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
Yup I'd stick to the manual
I guess that explains the weird handling and slow shock response time.
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:28 PM
  #17852  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Keep in mind, using the 21 caster (gives you more control high speed and less low speed steering) This is why you say it doesn't turn as much. TO get back some of the steering you can either go to a harder rear sway, or harder rear springs. Normally I run the stock 19 indoors which gives me more steering on tighter indoor tracks, and I go to the 21 on larger high speed tracks.

You can raise the inner rear link up by 1 hole which will induce more roll into the turns.

Going from 3k to 5k on the rear diff is going to reduce turn in coming into the corner, however, at mid corner, it may slide a bit which can help line you up for exit. If grip is good, then 5k may be an option. Alternatively, you could drop the front oil to 5k and leave the rear at 3k, which will give you more low speed or off-throttle steering, but it will push a bit on exit. Depends on how you like to drive your car.
I lowered the rear back down to 27.5 and it is better. I still think it could be better. I will try harder springs for more turn in. It does push on exit but that is if I roll the throttle on as I am exiting the corner. If I brake just before the corner and let my momentum carry through I can get it to corner quicker and then roll the throttle on as I exit and it's not too bad. Now I spun the rear dog bone off LOL. So need to order new rear dog bone. Should I stay with the cvd's or go with the D link? I am not sure I want the universals as they take away rear traction but add side bite?!
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Old 04-14-2015, 01:19 AM
  #17853  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
I lowered the rear back down to 27.5 and it is better. I still think it could be better. I will try harder springs for more turn in. It does push on exit but that is if I roll the throttle on as I am exiting the corner. If I brake just before the corner and let my momentum carry through I can get it to corner quicker and then roll the throttle on as I exit and it's not too bad. Now I spun the rear dog bone off LOL. So need to order new rear dog bone. Should I stay with the cvd's or go with the D link? I am not sure I want the universals as they take away rear traction but add side bite?!
What do you need your car to do?

Universal add side bite but take away a bit of forward traction. but you are 4wd so forward traction isn't a problem, but it will make your car understeer a bit on entry and mid corner

The 21 caster blocks should give you more on power. Or try moving the front inner camber link down 1 hole. That will make the steering more aggressive on exit.
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Old 04-14-2015, 06:58 PM
  #17854  
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So if I understand this right, the universal front drives and the 21* hubs should work great together?
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Old 04-14-2015, 07:13 PM
  #17855  
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Originally Posted by platgof
So if I understand this right, the universal front drives and the 21* hubs should work great together?
Thats the combo I run. Love it!
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Old 04-15-2015, 05:17 AM
  #17856  
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
Thats the combo I run. Love it!
+1
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Old 04-15-2015, 12:52 PM
  #17857  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
What do you need your car to do?

Universal add side bite but take away a bit of forward traction. but you are 4wd so forward traction isn't a problem, but it will make your car understeer a bit on entry and mid corner

The 21 caster blocks should give you more on power. Or try moving the front inner camber link down 1 hole. That will make the steering more aggressive on exit.
Need it to go faster LOL. I don't know just doesn't feel right. It feels better but I feel like its missing something. It could be me and I just need to be better on the throttle but.....
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:30 PM
  #17858  
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Glad to hear it. I will give it a go this weekend and see how she handles.
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Old 04-16-2015, 10:45 AM
  #17859  
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Late here, but the arrowmax front carbon tower has been great. Ran no protectors, a few nights of barely controllable 7.5 mod with plenty of big tumbles with no issue.

Originally Posted by 13Maschine
I'm glad to hear you got some of these, they look good. How are they in person? Let us know how they are on tracků.I've had no breakage since I added the HPI shock protectors. What kind of screws are you using on the top for the shock mount?
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Old 04-16-2015, 11:25 AM
  #17860  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
Need it to go faster LOL. I don't know just doesn't feel right. It feels better but I feel like its missing something. It could be me and I just need to be better on the throttle but.....
If you can be a bit more specific I can try to assist you further. Remember certain setups fit certain drivers or driving styles. I can help you tune the car to your liking or your style.
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:00 PM
  #17861  
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So my car is running pretty good but i have one area on the track that i would like to try to improve. The track is an outdoor med grip dirt/ clay mix. The area on the track is a med to low speed chicane that turns onto the strait. Right now on entry into the chicane the track has some pretty good bumps leading into the left hand sweep. My car is pretty good across the board until entry into this area. Here the back end bounces off the ground at times. This frees up the car pretty bad and ruins any chance of apexing. If I stay wide the bouncing is limited however the corner speed drops off allot. Im running Dino's setup with the following changes 21 deg castor blocks, zero degree rear hubs and 1.6x3 rear pistons. Any info helps. Thanks guys. ill see if i can figure out how to post a picture so you can better understand the corner.
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:58 PM
  #17862  
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What oil # are you running?
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:36 PM
  #17863  
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Originally Posted by platgof
What oil # are you running?
42.5 front 30 rear Team Associated oil. Thanks!
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Old 04-17-2015, 12:37 AM
  #17864  
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Originally Posted by vacajar
So my car is running pretty good but i have one area on the track that i would like to try to improve. The track is an outdoor med grip dirt/ clay mix. The area on the track is a med to low speed chicane that turns onto the strait. Right now on entry into the chicane the track has some pretty good bumps leading into the left hand sweep. My car is pretty good across the board until entry into this area. Here the back end bounces off the ground at times. This frees up the car pretty bad and ruins any chance of apexing. If I stay wide the bouncing is limited however the corner speed drops off allot. Im running Dino's setup with the following changes 21 deg castor blocks, zero degree rear hubs and 1.6x3 rear pistons. Any info helps. Thanks guys. ill see if i can figure out how to post a picture so you can better understand the corner.
Are you still on power going over the bumps leading into the chicane? Off throttle or under braking? Check if the front of the car is diving too much on entry making the rear very light and easily upset over bumps under braking.
If so, you can try heavier front oil, or run the drilled pads up front instead which will give you more even brake bias under braking and not make the car dive into the chicane under brakes.

Running universals will help bump handling for sure, especially in the rears.
If you are still on power and going over the bumps upsets the car, you can try lowering your antisqaut a bit or even try 0 squat. WIth 0 squat the car accelerates over the bumps easier, but it will have more side bite in turns and may make your car push on entry unless you are using brakes.
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Old 04-17-2015, 04:40 AM
  #17865  
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As mentioned above about the anti-squat but you could always try 2x1.7 pistons in the rear. It might help as it won't pack up as quick.
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