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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 04-04-2015, 09:24 AM
  #17836  
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how many degrees the chassie is bent
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Old 04-04-2015, 07:09 PM
  #17837  
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Originally Posted by Kutel
how many degrees the chassie is bent
12 +/- 1 degree I've seen.
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:04 PM
  #17838  
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Can someone post part numbers for the mcmaster pins? I couldn't seem to find them
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:31 PM
  #17839  
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I spent all night putting the hubs on. I now have it ready with the new hubs, and an 8.5 motor. The guy I bought it from had the camber pivot balls in the front, but the manual shows it in the back of the tower, who is right? When I put them in the rear, per manual, it aligned properly with up and down movement.
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Old 04-04-2015, 11:16 PM
  #17840  
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Camber links go on the rear of the tower and hubs
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Old 04-05-2015, 03:49 AM
  #17841  
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[QUOTE=Bman's 3XNT;13943276]12 +/- 1 degree I've seen.[/QUOTE

FRONT AND REAR IS 12 DEGREES ALSO
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Old 04-05-2015, 07:07 AM
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[QUOTE=Kutel;13943662]
Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
12 +/- 1 degree I've seen.[/QUOTE

FRONT AND REAR IS 12 DEGREES ALSO
If your asking if they're the same, then Yes. Not sure if your were confirming or asking.
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Old 04-05-2015, 07:07 AM
  #17843  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
Can someone post part numbers for the mcmaster pins? I couldn't seem to find them
91595A143 Front
91595A146 Rear
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Old 04-05-2015, 07:09 AM
  #17844  
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Originally Posted by platgof
I spent all night putting the hubs on. I now have it ready with the new hubs, and an 8.5 motor. The guy I bought it from had the camber pivot balls in the front, but the manual shows it in the back of the tower, who is right? When I put them in the rear, per manual, it aligned properly with up and down movement.
Yup I'd stick to the manual
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Old 04-05-2015, 09:10 AM
  #17845  
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I would get the longer ones and cut to size as they come in packs of ten and last forever. I also plan to use the pins in the rear of my Desc210 as they break a lot.

Last edited by platgof; 04-05-2015 at 07:06 PM.
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Old 04-07-2015, 04:16 AM
  #17846  
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edited

Last edited by LiL_JaSoN; 04-07-2015 at 06:15 AM.
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:40 AM
  #17847  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
I was thinking about changing the roll center of the rear. The front of my buggy seems pretty good. It's the rear that seems to be my issue. I don't think it rolls enough. I am going to try to go up in wt on the rear diff fluid to 5 and see if that does anything. I did notice my heat issue went down a bit when I converted the center drives to universal. Less binding too. The 21 castor blocks made it a completely different car now. I can push it more into the corners but it still doesn't "turn" more of a slide. Running dino's setup to the t. I was also thinking of maybe laying the rear shocks down 1 more hole inside on the tower.
Keep in mind, using the 21 caster (gives you more control high speed and less low speed steering) This is why you say it doesn't turn as much. TO get back some of the steering you can either go to a harder rear sway, or harder rear springs. Normally I run the stock 19 indoors which gives me more steering on tighter indoor tracks, and I go to the 21 on larger high speed tracks.

You can raise the inner rear link up by 1 hole which will induce more roll into the turns.

Going from 3k to 5k on the rear diff is going to reduce turn in coming into the corner, however, at mid corner, it may slide a bit which can help line you up for exit. If grip is good, then 5k may be an option. Alternatively, you could drop the front oil to 5k and leave the rear at 3k, which will give you more low speed or off-throttle steering, but it will push a bit on exit. Depends on how you like to drive your car.
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Old 04-07-2015, 12:49 PM
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Dino, I don't run sway bars anywhere on this thing w the 21 Blocks 32F/27R, Stock Springs, Brass Rear Skid Plate, Exotek 3.0 RR Hanger & Exotek 0 Rear Blocks, 7KF/3K Rear and I have plenty of stability and steering at any speed.

What I have found is that sometimes given the brutal speeds of this class thanks to way overpowered motors, is that trying to maintain a tight line under acceleration is nearly impossible regardless of vehicle, so it's an excellent idea to learn how to throttle steer to whip the rear end around just enough to compensate whenever needed. With the 19 blocks I had to throttle steer 80% of the time to make corners and it was constant work to turn laps consistently.

I also don't lock my slipper like most folks suggest. I adjust it to have just under half the amount of slip I dial into my 2WD buggies. This allows the tires to break free just enough without overdoing it so it doesn't tend to want to whip the tail end around.
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Old 04-07-2015, 02:05 PM
  #17849  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Dino, I don't run sway bars anywhere on this thing w the 21 Blocks 32F/27R, Stock Springs, Brass Rear Skid Plate, Exotek 3.0 RR Hanger & Exotek 0 Rear Blocks, 7KF/3K Rear and I have plenty of stability and steering at any speed.

What I have found is that sometimes given the brutal speeds of this class thanks to way overpowered motors, is that trying to maintain a tight line under acceleration is nearly impossible regardless of vehicle, so it's an excellent idea to learn how to throttle steer to whip the rear end around just enough to compensate whenever needed. With the 19 blocks I had to throttle steer 80% of the time to make corners and it was constant work to turn laps consistently.

I also don't lock my slipper like most folks suggest. I adjust it to have just under half the amount of slip I dial into my 2WD buggies. This allows the tires to break free just enough without overdoing it so it doesn't tend to want to whip the tail end around.
I agree about a lot of motors being over powered.
Normally I run my center diff with more bias in the front, drilling out some holes in the rear pad, this helps calm the car in low to med bite conditions. Also it doesn't make the back of the car slide as much. If I wanted more rear grip I would opt to run rear universals on the outdrive for more grip.
On high bite, I run either the same pads front and rear (non drilled) or sometimes more rear bias (front pads drilled) to make it more rear wheel drive and get more steering out of corners.

So many way to do the setup. I really depends on your driving style. Running no sway bars does help the car roll more in tighter tracks with more grip and makes up for the reduced steering from the 21 caster blocks. Its good you mentioned it, and described what your thoughts of it was, as it gives some folks the option to try a different setup that suits their style of driving or at least experiment further.

I came from touring cars, so I am not very fond of sliding. So I drive my 4wd like a 2wd, so I don't really throttle steer, just carry max corner speed into a corner, and roll the power out of a turn. Also I find drag brake helps keep the steering pretty sharp and consistent on entry as using brakes with the trigger, its hard to be very consistent braking every time you enter a turn, whereas using drag brake, I can let the car slow down automatically and pick braking markers (where I let off the throttle to enter)
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Old 04-08-2015, 03:38 PM
  #17850  
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Thanks guys. I will try them. I just remembered I had gone up wt in the rear to compensate some chassis slap and it now has warmed up finally so I am probably too thick in the rear which could cause some of my roll issues and sliding. I did drop the front 2.5 and will try 35 next.
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