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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 04-01-2015, 04:54 AM
  #17821  
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so had a d413 diff to play around with.

it fits but requires 4 new holes with abit of dremel work and is a extremely tight fit. pretty much you will have 0mm to spare.

weighed the diff and it is over 10g heavier than the slipper. I race 17.5t and gathered the weight combined + the power loss through the diff will not be worth it.

Sticking with two way slipper.

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Old 04-01-2015, 04:18 PM
  #17822  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
I was just going to ask about this. I run Dino's setup. I ran a tad higher oil in the rear. I just got the 21 castor blocks and the universal center drives. Cars great now except that now there is no actual turning. The rear come around and it just slides and will sometimes over rotate. I got to thinking maybe my rear oils may be too thick as the track layout is now fast and low instead of huge jumps plus it's getting a bit warmer to go back down in oil. I was running a new set of electrons and they really aren't broken in...and they are the 2.4's if that makes a difference. I was thinking of raising my camber links up a hole?



I run the LRP Flow...I really like it. I have the 5.5. I had heat issues but I recently turned it down to 75%, put the universals on and now I am at about 140 on 5 mins. I geared up like I have been wanted to, to take some of the punch out and heat at 7 mins is 170 on motor. Esc is 120 which is a good range.
Raising the camber links will give you more roll and weight transfer which will help you turn.

You mentioned it doesn't turn then turns too much? Can you break it down?
Corner Entry: Over or Understeer? Off throttle or under brakes?
Corner Middle: Over or Understeer? are you on or off throttle?
Corner Exit: Over or Understeer?

Is the rolling a lot in the corner or flat but sliding?
The more details you can tell me, the better I can pinpoint what to change or try.
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:38 PM
  #17823  
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Originally Posted by frankf
Usually if you keep crashing it's because your overpowered try running a 8.5-10.5 it wil keep up in the infield without you crashing alot and add turbo to keep up on the straight
You are making a very good point here. I will go back to the 8.5 and see what happens. Just upset my buggy was totally thrashed last weekend. I will rebuild it and get it running again, and make things easier on myself by going back to the 8.5 which was much friendlier, and just add boost when needed.

Last edited by platgof; 04-01-2015 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:05 AM
  #17824  
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I never change roll centre, every set up uses the same settings and when I have changed it by 1 spot the car was terrible, lowering the front by 1 spot makes it dive so hard into a turn you think you have no springs on the car
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:05 AM
  #17825  
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Have to agree with the motor turn conversation here. I'm running a 6.5T in my 410 and it's awesome, however my home track is somewhat smaller and this motor is too much for this track. I am barely able to get full throttle on the straight. I run the whole track at 3/4 throttle or below I'd say. Just a quick full throttle blip on the straight. I am not using any boost or turbo. I could/should probably run 7.5 or maybe even 8.5. I'm also using a bit of current limiting to help with the wheel spin. When the wheels are spinning you aren't moving and you aren't putting power down, not to mention the car will be very difficult to drive.

I also realize it's an investment to get a different motor, but perhaps you could just get a new rotor instead of a whole new motor.
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:08 AM
  #17826  
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Originally Posted by platgof
You are making a very good point here. I will go back to the 8.5 and see what happens. Just upset my buggy was totally thrashed last weekend. I will rebuild it and get it running again, and make things easier on myself by going back to the 8.5 which was much friendlier, and just add boost when needed.
Boost is low mid end. You want turbo. which is top end.
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:11 AM
  #17827  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Have to agree with the motor turn conversation here. I'm running a 6.5T in my 410 and it's awesome, however my home track is somewhat smaller and this motor is too much for this track. I am barely able to get full throttle on the straight. I run the whole track at 3/4 throttle or below I'd say. Just a quick full throttle blip on the straight. I am not using any boost or turbo. I could/should probably run 7.5 or maybe even 8.5. I'm also using a bit of current limiting to help with the wheel spin. When the wheels are spinning you aren't moving and you aren't putting power down, not to mention the car will be very difficult to drive.

I also realize it's an investment to get a different motor, but perhaps you could just get a new rotor instead of a whole new motor.
The rotor doesn't contain the windings. The can does. Changing the rotor, gets you either the high speed or high torque ones.

If you are only utilizing 3/4 throttle, you will probably be faster with a 7.5 or 8.5 and add turbo as needed if you have a long straight. I rather be able to get onto full power rather then gingerly roll on throttle.
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Old 04-02-2015, 04:13 PM
  #17828  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
I never change roll centre, every set up uses the same settings and when I have changed it by 1 spot the car was terrible, lowering the front by 1 spot makes it dive so hard into a turn you think you have no springs on the car
I was thinking about changing the roll center of the rear. The front of my buggy seems pretty good. It's the rear that seems to be my issue. I don't think it rolls enough. I am going to try to go up in wt on the rear diff fluid to 5 and see if that does anything. I did notice my heat issue went down a bit when I converted the center drives to universal. Less binding too. The 21 castor blocks made it a completely different car now. I can push it more into the corners but it still doesn't "turn" more of a slide. Running dino's setup to the t. I was also thinking of maybe laying the rear shocks down 1 more hole inside on the tower.
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Old 04-02-2015, 04:22 PM
  #17829  
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I got the 21* hubs on the way, should be here Saturday. thanks on the clarification Dino, I need to add Turbo. I may drop to a 9.5 if I think it would help.
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Old 04-02-2015, 06:46 PM
  #17830  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
I was thinking about changing the roll center of the rear. The front of my buggy seems pretty good. It's the rear that seems to be my issue. I don't think it rolls enough. I am going to try to go up in wt on the rear diff fluid to 5 and see if that does anything. I did notice my heat issue went down a bit when I converted the center drives to universal. Less binding too. The 21 castor blocks made it a completely different car now. I can push it more into the corners but it still doesn't "turn" more of a slide. Running dino's setup to the t. I was also thinking of maybe laying the rear shocks down 1 more hole inside on the tower.
More castor will give you less off power steering, I run the stock 0deg hubs and the rear camber link in the hole above dinos setup, going back to 3deg toe in should give you back some steering
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:22 PM
  #17831  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
I was thinking about changing the roll center of the rear. The front of my buggy seems pretty good. It's the rear that seems to be my issue. I don't think it rolls enough. I am going to try to go up in wt on the rear diff fluid to 5 and see if that does anything. I did notice my heat issue went down a bit when I converted the center drives to universal. Less binding too. The 21 castor blocks made it a completely different car now. I can push it more into the corners but it still doesn't "turn" more of a slide. Running dino's setup to the t. I was also thinking of maybe laying the rear shocks down 1 more hole inside on the tower.
You are describing to different problems. In the other post I answered, you were mentioning that the car wouldn't turn then snap around. The heavier rear oil will help the snapping around but a higher inside rear camber link will help the roll(turn) the buggy in the corners. I would try the rear diff oil then move the rear inside link all the way to the top and try it. Then fine tune from there by dropping down one hole at a time.
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Old 04-02-2015, 08:41 PM
  #17832  
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I had a bad crash last week and after inspecting my car, I found out the RSX capacitor had shorted out and burned up! There was a burned spot on top of the esc. I feel very fortunate it wasn't worse. I was changing out the motor to the 8.5 and found it. I hate the cap sitting on the esc, and this confirmed it. I added wire and moved the new cap to another spot. Glad I didn't have a fan on it.
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:21 AM
  #17833  
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Originally Posted by platgof
I had a bad crash last week and after inspecting my car, I found out the RSX capacitor had shorted out and burned up! There was a burned spot on top of the esc. I feel very fortunate it wasn't worse. I was changing out the motor to the 8.5 and found it. I hate the cap sitting on the esc, and this confirmed it. I added wire and moved the new cap to another spot. Glad I didn't have a fan on it.
What I do with capacitors on the Tekins is to solder them in place in the slots of the posts with the leads just long enough to allow them to sit behind the ESC itself. I then solder the wires to the posts as normal. I've also never burned up a Tekin ESC though I've seen several of them go up in the middle of intense on-track battles.

All RS, RS Pros and RX8's but no RSX ESC's yet.
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:54 PM
  #17834  
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My parts will be here tomorrow, and should have it ready for next week. I just cut some McMaster-Carr rods to fit the front arm. These pins are amazing, and the only ones to last in my Desc410. I easily bend or break the others. They come in 60mm length, so I cut them down with a small cutter I got from Harbor Freight, that cuts them well, except lacking power. A Dremel cut off wheel can also be used. Just be careful with the fragments coming off the wheel as they can become embedded in your throat, bad news.

Last edited by platgof; 04-04-2015 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:24 AM
  #17835  
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has someone the chassis in cad
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