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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 03-29-2015, 10:32 PM
  #17806  
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Originally Posted by frankf
Hi I just wanted to share my experience with racing the v4 this weekend, firstly I run Dino setup as recommended but with a shorty lipo and the rear has always been loose on power regardless of how much weight I added to the rear so yesterday while I had the setup wheels on I decided to check the rear toe in settings with the 1deg hubs and it was actually 4.5deg so after some research it seems that too much toe in can cause the back end to wash out so I installed the stock hubs on and it gives me 3.5deg which is what most other wheelers were running anyway and I could not believe how much better the car drove the rear was planted and the car was now pushing because of all the changes I made getting the rear to stick and as I reversed those changes one by one the car got better and lap times got faster so in conclusion I suggest you use the 0deg hubs.
I was just going to ask about this. I run Dino's setup. I ran a tad higher oil in the rear. I just got the 21 castor blocks and the universal center drives. Cars great now except that now there is no actual turning. The rear come around and it just slides and will sometimes over rotate. I got to thinking maybe my rear oils may be too thick as the track layout is now fast and low instead of huge jumps plus it's getting a bit warmer to go back down in oil. I was running a new set of electrons and they really aren't broken in...and they are the 2.4's if that makes a difference. I was thinking of raising my camber links up a hole?



I run the LRP Flow...I really like it. I have the 5.5. I had heat issues but I recently turned it down to 75%, put the universals on and now I am at about 140 on 5 mins. I geared up like I have been wanted to, to take some of the punch out and heat at 7 mins is 170 on motor. Esc is 120 which is a good range.
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Old 03-30-2015, 03:00 AM
  #17807  
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can anyone work out what im fitting in the center here...

a center diff

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Old 03-30-2015, 03:15 AM
  #17808  
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN
can anyone work out what im fitting in the center here...

a center diff

Who's is it? Xray? Team-C?
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Old 03-30-2015, 03:22 AM
  #17809  
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Originally Posted by Reflexia
Who's is it? Xray? Team-C?
i wish i could get a team c center diff.. that would drop right in. i looked around but there hard to find. seen a few places in euro that has it and its cheaper to buy a new car.

it will either be xray or the diff from hot bodies.

hot bodies use 8x14 bearings while durango uses 10x15. i have custom bearings made that are 8x15 so it will drop in the center.

i am also running ball diffs in the rango from a kyosho (lighened output shafts, carbide balls, plastic gears so the entire drive chain is light.

i race 17.5t stock in australia. keeps up and faster than all the other cars no probs
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Old 03-30-2015, 03:30 AM
  #17810  
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN
can anyone work out what im fitting in the center here...

a center diff

Very nice, but what are you going to use for center driveshafts? 2-68mm? Keep us posted....
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Old 03-30-2015, 03:33 AM
  #17811  
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the durango driveshafts will fit. i have a few laying around.. i will test that when the time comes

this is just a test to see that i have enough gap between the center. testing using a dex210 ball diff.

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Old 03-30-2015, 03:38 AM
  #17812  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
I was just going to ask about this. I run Dino's setup. I ran a tad higher oil in the rear. I just got the 21 castor blocks and the universal center drives. Cars great now except that now there is no actual turning. The rear come around and it just slides and will sometimes over rotate. I got to thinking maybe my rear oils may be too thick as the track layout is now fast and low instead of huge jumps plus it's getting a bit warmer to go back down in oil. I was running a new set of electrons and they really aren't broken in...and they are the 2.4's if that makes a difference. I was thinking of raising my camber links up a hole?



I run the LRP Flow...I really like it. I have the 5.5. I had heat issues but I recently turned it down to 75%, put the universals on and now I am at about 140 on 5 mins. I geared up like I have been wanted to, to take some of the punch out and heat at 7 mins is 170 on motor. Esc is 120 which is a good range.


When my car over rotates and I KNOW it's not traction related, it's definitely the rear diff oil. Try going heavier. I had this problem for some time coming from ball diffs. I always thought lighter oil=more traction, but to some degree. The lighter oil will make the car rotate a lot easier. So once I went up it seemed to help with the over rotation. I tried everything before that, swaybars, springs, anti squat, roll centers etc. etc. If your running 3 try 5. Try it and report back.
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:13 AM
  #17813  
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN
i wish i could get a team c center diff.. that would drop right in. i looked around but there hard to find. seen a few places in euro that has it and its cheaper to buy a new car.
I don't think the Team-C one will 'drop in'. In the TM4 the rear mount moves to accomodate the taller diff in it and has new front and rear decks, cover and shafts. I'd have stolen Matt Grimmond's long ago if that was the case

I think all the Durango needs to run 17.5 more competitvely is a carbon chassis. With both center universals the car has the smoothest drivetrain. Runs pretty awesome, but I'd love a slight weight drop and a little more flex. As it stands, its pretty impressive, and tbh i kinda feel balancing oils is pretty simple. I run it with the gear diffs and its great (17.5T stock in Australia, Adelaide)

How much can/did you move your rear and or front mounts?
EDIT : Actually.. looks like the TM4 only moves about a cm...
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:21 AM
  #17814  
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Originally Posted by Reflexia
I don't think the Team-C one will 'drop in'. In the TM4 the rear mount moves to accomodate the taller diff in it and has new front and rear decks, cover and shafts. I'd have stolen Matt Grimmond's long ago if that was the case

I think all the Durango needs to run 17.5 more competitvely is a carbon chassis. With both center universals the car has the smoothest drivetrain. Runs pretty awesome, but I'd love a slight weight drop and a little more flex. As it stands, its pretty impressive, and tbh i kinda feel balancing oils is pretty simple. I run it with the gear diffs and its great (17.5T stock in Australia, Adelaide)

you need to drill some new holes to widen the gap. if you have a team c diff, feel free to send it to me to try haha

running a short or square pack (93mm), dremel out the ears at the back of the chassis and dremel the diff ring (where the battery strap sits onto) so you can push the battery right back - this will give u about 10mm more room (including the shorter battery). you will need to just a battery strap to hold it down (like pic shown) as you no longer can use the stock battery strap

i have a carbon chassis but i will hack my standard chassis before drilling new holes in my carbon.

im also running ball diffs.
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Old 03-31-2015, 04:20 PM
  #17815  
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I am interested to see how the center diff works out but I wouldn't think you would reep the benefits running stock, I remember seeing a thread about someone making a center ball diff for a Schumacher buggy as it takes up less room than a gear diff
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:02 PM
  #17816  
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Taking ownership of a v4 and was wondering aside from the arms carriers hubs and spare gears, is there anything in particular that commonly fails that doesn't require crashing? 500 pages and my searches didn't give a clear answer...
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:41 PM
  #17817  
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Originally Posted by theycallme_cee
Taking ownership of a v4 and was wondering aside from the arms carriers hubs and spare gears, is there anything in particular that commonly fails that doesn't require crashing? 500 pages and my searches didn't give a clear answer...
I've only raced this car one weekend but i'm amazed at how strong this car is i'm sure others with more drive time will chime in but i'm blown away by the durability nearly as beefy as my RC8.2. I haven't broke anything racing yet but here are a few things i keep with me just in case.

I Feel a few sets of A Arms are always a must with any RC along with spare ball cups. Other than that a spare spur gear is always nice to have especially if your racing outdoors. Rocks always find a way into gears (at least that's my luck) If you have the funds maybe a spare front shock tower just in case someone hits you or you find that one steel post that always seems to find my cars.

Good luck with your car and have fun.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:47 PM
  #17818  
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Arms and inner hinge pins is about all that breaks. The drivetrain is bomb proof
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Old 03-31-2015, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by theycallme_cee
Taking ownership of a v4 and was wondering aside from the arms carriers hubs and spare gears, is there anything in particular that commonly fails that doesn't require crashing? 500 pages and my searches didn't give a clear answer...
Along with the front shock tower im on my 4th front bulkhead and 2nd rear bulkhead.
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Old 03-31-2015, 10:56 PM
  #17820  
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X2 on front shock tower , I never broke one personally but seen several brake. You could also keep a spare plastic tower just in case (there really cheap and pretty strong too)
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