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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 03-23-2015, 07:45 AM
  #17761  
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Follow up to my shorty mod.

This is the plastic part I am talking about. It is provided in the V3 and V4 kits.
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:44 PM
  #17762  
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Originally Posted by frankf
I think your under geared I usually use 87/23-24 with a 7.5. On a side note to those that want less steering instead of the caster blocks have you tried stiffer springs in the front, im using dark red fronts and it helped with rear traction as I run shorty packs, ill be testing yellow fronts with light red rear springs next time out as it seems odd that the 410 comes standard with the same springs as the 210 but the 410 is much heavier.
I was thinking that going down in pinon would drop temps? Or is it allowing the motor to spool up to quickly causing excess heat? Id like to go back to that setup. Due to today's testing. While driving in the street with the Trackstar ESC the car began to come on and off power when imputing full throttle seemed like a delay of some kind. Then the car went to full throttle without any input right into a wall. I lucked out in the sense that it only broke a front right a arm and bent the shock body. But im ready to throw that ESC in the trash. Im using a Spectrum dx3s radio and did not have this problem with the tekin. Any ideas would be great i cant say enough about this car after the hit it took today. Thanks for reading guys!
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:46 PM
  #17763  
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Originally Posted by vacajar
I was thinking that going down in pinon would drop temps? Or is it allowing the motor to spool up to quickly causing excess heat? Id like to go back to that setup. Due to today's testing. While driving in the street with the Trackstar ESC the car began to come on and off power when imputing full throttle seemed like a delay of some kind. Then the car went to full throttle without any input right into a wall. I lucked out in the sense that it only broke a front right a arm and bent the shock body. But im ready to throw that ESC in the trash. Im using a Spectrum dx3s radio and did not have this problem with the tekin. Any ideas would be great i cant say enough about this car after the hit it took today. Thanks for reading guys!
Which trackstar ESC. Sounds like you have a BEC low voltage problem. Try a power capacitor on the receiver
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Old 03-24-2015, 07:23 AM
  #17764  
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Dino_D The ESC is a Trackstar Turbo 120A, Motor is a Trackstar 6.5 and I have a Savox 1258TG servo. From what I have read on your BEC Idea I think your right. It seems like many people have had this issues especially with Savox Servos. Thanks for your help!!
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:05 AM
  #17765  
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN


associated b5 battery strap on the dex410. its a direct fit and doesnt wobble up & down like the original one.

i recommend getting the carbon one as its thinner and gets alot more clearance.

i run shorty & sqaure
THANK YOU!

Be aware the plastic piece does require some dremel use, in order to not bind on the driveshaft (near the front and rear outdrives). I actually cut the ends of the strap a bit, along with slight dremeling. Works wonderful! I did have to purchase longer set screws than the stock B5 (I went with 3x30mm, but i'm sure 3x25mm would work).

I have the JC carbon piece, and it doesn't work as well. It is actually thicker at the ends, causing it to bind on the outdrives.
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Old 03-24-2015, 02:57 PM
  #17766  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
THANK YOU!

Be aware the plastic piece does require some dremel use, in order to not bind on the driveshaft (near the front and rear outdrives). I actually cut the ends of the strap a bit, along with slight dremeling. Works wonderful! I did have to purchase longer set screws than the stock B5 (I went with 3x30mm, but i'm sure 3x25mm would work).

I have the JC carbon piece, and it doesn't work as well. It is actually thicker at the ends, causing it to bind on the outdrives.
i use to exotek one and it is perfect. it's shorter than the jconcepts

http://www.exotekracing.com/b5-flite-lipo-strap/

3x30mm screws are needed

got another mod coming up soon ..
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Old 03-24-2015, 03:00 PM
  #17767  
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Originally Posted by vacajar
Dino_D The ESC is a Trackstar Turbo 120A, Motor is a Trackstar 6.5 and I have a Savox 1258TG servo. From what I have read on your BEC Idea I think your right. It seems like many people have had this issues especially with Savox Servos. Thanks for your help!!
Well people used to have the same issues with other ESC running 5.5 or 6.5T motors. I use the SkyRC Toro TS-120 (which is very similar to the Trackstar but with better components) also with the same 1258TG servo you are using and I don't have any issues at all, and nor does my team mates. So between manufacturers, the components for the BEC in the ESC supply different AMPs to the servos. But you can't really complain about the price of a trackstar right?

Anyhow, just pick up a power cap for the receiver. Its only a few bucks.

We also run Futaba RX which I think can take a bigger brownout. I assume you are running spectrum RX?

Another thing worth checking. Try someone else's Lipo which has a 50-60C or higher rating (preferable a name brand). It also might by the Lipo that can't supply enough current under acceleration when using a 6.5T motor. Cause I seen that happen with low turn motors before.
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Old 03-24-2015, 03:25 PM
  #17768  
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Ill try another lipo i'm using Thunder power saddle packs at 65C. The receiver is a spectrum rx micro. Thanks for all the help. I need to post pictures of this shock body that bent I've never seen any shock do it its pretty impressive.
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Old 03-24-2015, 08:03 PM
  #17769  
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wanted to share some of my ideas based on the recent posts.
I've found especially on High Bite clay tracks it can be a little easier to drive a harder set of front tires than the rear. For example using Gold compound dirt webs in the front with silver dirt webs in the rear. I haven't yet tried using Pro Line MC front and M4 rear but I would expect this to work in similar fashion. The softer front tire can get a little bit grabby and hard to control at times. This seems especially common when the track starts to groove up.

Last night I had a chance to try out 40wt (1.6mm X 2) front with Dark Blue springs and 35wt with (1.7mm X 2) and Green springs. I was running a little lighter with 35wt front and 30 wet rear. Since it's warmer now I figured it's a good time to go up in viscosity and I plan to head out to Vegas for some outdoor racing in April. Given the weight of the car I recommend running it with heavier oil and heavier springs. Just make sure you balance the springs and the car after you make adjustments. Especially if you are using a shorty instead of the full saddles. It can be tough to get the front to rear balance right. 21 degree castor blocks do help smooth things out as well.

Funny side story....
I've been tweaking my setup for quite some time and I've just realized the problem with my drill bits don't match up with the packaging!! so I have several of the same size instead of an assortment. UGH! I drilled quite a few thinking I was using 1.5mm or 1.6mm when in fact I was using 1.7 or 1.8....

Hope everyone gets a laugh and my notes help you go a little faster
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Old 03-25-2015, 11:39 AM
  #17770  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
wanted to share some of my ideas based on the recent posts.
I've found especially on High Bite clay tracks it can be a little easier to drive a harder set of front tires than the rear. For example using Gold compound dirt webs in the front with silver dirt webs in the rear. I haven't yet tried using Pro Line MC front and M4 rear but I would expect this to work in similar fashion. The softer front tire can get a little bit grabby and hard to control at times. This seems especially common when the track starts to groove up.

Last night I had a chance to try out 40wt (1.6mm X 2) front with Dark Blue springs and 35wt with (1.7mm X 2) and Green springs. I was running a little lighter with 35wt front and 30 wet rear. Since it's warmer now I figured it's a good time to go up in viscosity and I plan to head out to Vegas for some outdoor racing in April. Given the weight of the car I recommend running it with heavier oil and heavier springs. Just make sure you balance the springs and the car after you make adjustments. Especially if you are using a shorty instead of the full saddles. It can be tough to get the front to rear balance right. 21 degree castor blocks do help smooth things out as well.

Funny side story....
I've been tweaking my setup for quite some time and I've just realized the problem with my drill bits don't match up with the packaging!! so I have several of the same size instead of an assortment. UGH! I drilled quite a few thinking I was using 1.5mm or 1.6mm when in fact I was using 1.7 or 1.8....

Hope everyone gets a laugh and my notes help you go a little faster
Exactly. That's why I suggest 1 step heavier front tire helps take away the nervousness of the car.

And I always use a caliper on my drill bits before drilling so I dont make a mistake.
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Old 03-25-2015, 12:02 PM
  #17771  
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Thanks Guys I just bought the DESC410 And read everything on here their are a ton of helpfull tips. Cant wait for race day....... PS new here also.
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Old 03-25-2015, 12:33 PM
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@Dino: I KNOW! I should have....I'm just going to fill in the holes and drill in the remaining spots. I also have to order new bits as I don't think I have all the sizes I want to have.

Have you done MC front with M4 rear on medium to high bite clay? I noticed this issue got much worse right after water, which usually makes the traction come up. It wasn't too bad with the MC electrons front and rear, but I think I might prefer the feel of the dirt web gold front silver rear, it's a really close comparison. The electrons are a bit rounder so they are better in the bumps and a little better side bite.
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Old 03-25-2015, 05:39 PM
  #17773  
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If you are using a Spektrum, be sure to try the NIZN batteries as they are 1.6 volts each and show 7.1 volts on the screen. I was having problems with my DX4R radio and the NIZN batteries cleared that up. I never use 1.2 rechargeables in these radios. You will see a big difference with these batteries. I got them off ebay.
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:05 AM
  #17774  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
@Dino: I KNOW! I should have....I'm just going to fill in the holes and drill in the remaining spots. I also have to order new bits as I don't think I have all the sizes I want to have.

Have you done MC front with M4 rear on medium to high bite clay? I noticed this issue got much worse right after water, which usually makes the traction come up. It wasn't too bad with the MC electrons front and rear, but I think I might prefer the feel of the dirt web gold front silver rear, it's a really close comparison. The electrons are a bit rounder so they are better in the bumps and a little better side bite.
I have used M2 or X2 up front with M4 rears. The difference between the M2 and X2 is that it handles fast flowing tracks better for some reason. My usual combination are X2 front scrubs, and M4 Ions or X2 Transitors front and M4 Electrons if you like the 2.4 rims. The larger rims favour smoother high speed tracks, while the scrub/ion are better for more rutted tracks.
And the front tires seem to last forever using this combination, but it does take away some steering and makes the car easier to drive. The MC work in a similar fashion but I found the clay compound sometimes has more bite in certain conditions or when the track is wet, especially if using sauce. And the M4 being a softer than the clay sometimes can't attack the surface as well as clay in the wet cause the tread is just too soft.

But I guess tire choice comes down to more personal preference.

Last edited by Dino_D; 03-26-2015 at 09:16 AM.
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Old 03-26-2015, 01:46 PM
  #17775  
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Can you not get similar results by using Stiffer springs on the front rather than harder tires because some events have control tires
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