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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 03-10-2015, 07:18 AM
  #17716  
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Only 2? :P I've got 4, 1 v4 and a be both ready to race, and 2 more in different levels of completion. I'll be running the v3 on carpet this Friday, we'll see how that goes
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Old 03-10-2015, 02:25 PM
  #17717  
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I have two of them as well. Just haven't made time to get the second one going yet.
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Old 03-10-2015, 05:46 PM
  #17718  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Screw boots. Too much hassle.

WD40 is expelled rather instantaneously so it's not very much help.

I did something unique and made a 50/50 lube mix consisting AE Black Diff Lube and some Durango green grease and applied it in all CVD joints and it's perfect. To re-apply I simply take a touch of it with one of my smaller allen drivers and press it into the edge seam and roll the car so it coats the entire seam and then blast it with a burt of air to ensure it coats everything inside.
I googled your recommendation and everyone seems to think that dust and grease equals grinding paste. The way to go is a dry lube it seems, I was happy with the boots but tower and amain have them on back order
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Old 03-10-2015, 06:11 PM
  #17719  
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Originally Posted by frankf
I googled your recommendation and everyone seems to think that dust and grease equals grinding paste. The way to go is a dry lube it seems, I was happy with the boots but tower and amain have them on back order
This http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXATCH
or
This http://www.amain.com/dryfluid-extrem...e-10ml/p378093
is what you need
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Old 03-10-2015, 06:41 PM
  #17720  
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Yup, the krytech works well. I use it instead of grease in bearings and it is louder for sure, but very smooth. It has solvents in it so try not getting high on it
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Old 03-10-2015, 07:28 PM
  #17721  
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I bought spray dry lube at Lowes cheap. I put the RSX in and pulled the RS Pro. I think the RSX has more power. I had to turn the power down on the radio. This thing is also very smooth as well. Can't wait for track time, unfortunately I have a couple of weeks before my next race. Since installing the Universal Joints, the drive train is much smoother. I wish I had gone with the D joints in the front though. I am trying to make it very reliable, as in less maintenance. The RSX also has 7.4 volts, so my 2271 servo is stupid fast now, .065 sec.
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Old 03-10-2015, 09:05 PM
  #17722  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
Only 2? :P I've got 4, 1 v4 and a be both ready to race, and 2 more in different levels of completion. I'll be running the v3 on carpet this Friday, we'll see how that goes
I would suggest going 10 and 10k in your diffs if you haven't already. I race on carpet and tried a lot of things before going 10&10 and when I finally did my car really came around.
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:14 AM
  #17723  
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Originally Posted by Sodakota
I would suggest going 10 and 10k in your diffs if you haven't already. I race on carpet and tried a lot of things before going 10&10 and when I finally did my car really came around.
on sunday I`m going to the first race on carpet with my dex410 v3... maybe you have some other suggestions what is a must for the carpet setup?
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Old 03-11-2015, 12:34 PM
  #17724  
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Originally Posted by hardijs
on sunday I`m going to the first race on carpet with my dex410 v3... maybe you have some other suggestions what is a must for the carpet setup?
Well beside going with 10k in your diffs, I would put in a little heavier shock oil 40-50 front 30-40 rear, lower the ride hight to 18-19mm and let her rip. Oh and for me at least I ditched the skid weight. Other than that I'm basically stock. Kit springs, kit sway bars.

If your track allows pin points get a set of those, closed cells rear and I've been using an uncut rear open cell in the front. Some guys prefer yellow Schumacher mini pins but they wear a little fast for me. Also if you do go with proline pin points I would suggest that u open the bag and let them sit a few days before u race. Made the mistake of betting a new set gluing them up and racing on them right away and they were trashed pretty quick. Hope that helps.
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Old 03-12-2015, 08:46 PM
  #17725  
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So I went out on a limb and bought the 21 caster blocks. I am assuming that the team Durango on both the left and right should be facing the front? I have one that does and the right one the 21 faces front.
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Old 03-12-2015, 09:37 PM
  #17726  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
So I went out on a limb and bought the 21 caster blocks. I am assuming that the team Durango on both the left and right should be facing the front? I have one that does and the right one the 21 faces front.
That is correct, the Team Durango logo should face forward. Was it an incorrectly labelled packet or did you buy 2 of the same side?

Last edited by ekt; 03-13-2015 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 03-13-2015, 09:51 AM
  #17727  
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Most likely u received 2 of the same. Check you package tag labels.

This is correct.
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ekt
That is correct, the Team Durango logo should face forward. Was it an incorrectly labelled packet or did you buy 2 of the same side?
Packaged wrong LOL. package said left and right. Dang it. Ebayer...now the deal is not a deal. I thought my camber looked way off.
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Old 03-14-2015, 07:39 PM
  #17729  
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Well I got my 410v4 on the indoor track today! Maiden voyage went well with 13.5 propelling the car. I've gone thru and set it up for a clay track. I reverted back to kit setting for the shocks and put on the Dirt Webs tires front and rear and installed the 8.5 turn motor. I'm going to the track tomorrow to test it out.
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Old 03-15-2015, 11:33 AM
  #17730  
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Originally Posted by Sodakota
Well beside going with 10k in your diffs, I would put in a little heavier shock oil 40-50 front 30-40 rear, lower the ride hight to 18-19mm and let her rip. Oh and for me at least I ditched the skid weight. Other than that I'm basically stock. Kit springs, kit sway bars.

If your track allows pin points get a set of those, closed cells rear and I've been using an uncut rear open cell in the front. Some guys prefer yellow Schumacher mini pins but they wear a little fast for me. Also if you do go with proline pin points I would suggest that u open the bag and let them sit a few days before u race. Made the mistake of betting a new set gluing them up and racing on them right away and they were trashed pretty quick. Hope that helps.
so, the first race with my v3 is done... qualified 4th and finished 5th overal... if to check lap best times car was so fast to compete for top 3, but technical problem at A3 (lost wheel... while where 3rd.. as well some conistency broblems at A1 and A2 lead to 5th position... not bad, but it was possible to do better.

started with latest Jorns setup for carpet which I find at petitrc website.
just pistones I used 2x1.6 at front and 2x1.7 at rear. Oils front 500 and rear 450.... about springs I have no information as I used which was on car when I got it Diffs where 9k at front and rear (as 10k I havent at my shelf).
Ride heights fromt 16mm and rear 17mm
Car felt good, but it was one place where I lost almost to all guys... it was a medium-small jump which ended at midle of corner, after which followed a stright, so after this jump is necesarry to exit a corner and go to stright, it was important to push as may as possible when exiting this corner, but my car if I pushed it after landing it spined out while others just keeped their lines. Cars end just felt not stable...
I played with ride height and find some improvement on A3, but still i feel that it might be better.

So any ideas what to try to solve it?
Next race after 2 weeks...no practice aviliable between those races, just 2x5min practice before qualification.
So till finals still I could try something out, just asking for advice what to try?
Could solve this probblem with adding or reducing a weight to the rear?
Maybe go to lower oils at rear?
Any advice is welccome
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