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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 02-07-2015, 05:08 PM
  #17611  
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Punching holes allows the tire to decompress on landing, and not be bouncy. If you leave trapped air, it gets bouncy. I just ordered a Savox 2271 servo for this beast. I was thinking of running it at 7.4 volts, but will just try 6 volts to see how it behaves. I really like the RS Pro in this, plenty of power, insane power. Laker67, I noticed the same thing, I had Typos on the back and it was so squirrley, hated it. Slapped on a set of worn Ions, and it is so smooth. That tells me slicks on the back, like you said, are the answer, and will last quite some time as well.
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Old 02-08-2015, 04:38 AM
  #17612  
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Originally Posted by platgof
If you run SMC squares, you don't have that problem, like with the saddles. Just two wires to deal with, and at $39.95 each, a steal.
Yea, saw that. Went on their website and noticed they were pre order only. Tried calling to see what the eta looked like, left a vm.
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Old 02-08-2015, 03:00 PM
  #17613  
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I have a lot of time on my hands till my next race, so I hope to get it all dialed in by then. I am adding the silicone seals to the shocks, try deciding which buggy to use(have two now,) and which esc and motor. My new servo also weighs more, 52g vs 69g, but in a good location. The 4x4 buggy and sct classes are really picking up at my track. I have to decide how to go faster as everyone is setting fast laps.
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:27 PM
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I am tearing down the two Dex410's that I have and trying to make a really good one. I just picked up the other one, and using it as a base to build on. I learned a neat trick for taking the drive shaft pins out, by heating the set screw with a soldering iron till the loctite loosens up. Made the job a ton easier.

Last edited by platgof; 02-12-2015 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 02-13-2015, 07:57 PM
  #17615  
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I finally got it done after 5 hours of wrenching tonight, arghhh! I installed the new servo, rebuilt the front mid shaft, ground the servo mount so I wouldn't tear the servo wire out. Installed a Tekin 7.5 motor after replacing the motor bearings with fresh ones, that should make it happy. Then pulled the shocks and installed the 3x2 silicone seals in them. I also aligned the front wheels, and had a problem with the new universal front drive shafts being very rough for some reason, as they were binding at full lock. Needless to say I am exhausted, but you can't win on Saturday if you don't wrench on them during the week. She is almost ready, so close. that Savox 2271 servo is amazing, stupid fast, but it is noisy. I am using an RS Pro for this project. I can't wait to get it on the track!!
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:18 PM
  #17616  
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Hi fellas i need some help, i usually race 1/8 nitro off road but have decided to get the dex410v4 to race on opposite weekends, could some one tell me the must have spares and hop ups i should get when i order the buggy, also the most important thing is can some one please recommend a motor and esc combo, i like what i have read about this buggy with a 6.5t motor i just have no clue what is good, i no in 1/8 scale people love tekin but in 1/10 scale i have no clue so some help and advise would be greatly appreciated TIA.
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Old 02-13-2015, 11:12 PM
  #17617  
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Originally Posted by DREWS
Hi fellas i need some help, i usually race 1/8 nitro off road but have decided to get the dex410v4 to race on opposite weekends, could some one tell me the must have spares and hop ups i should get when i order the buggy, also the most important thing is can some one please recommend a motor and esc combo, i like what i have read about this buggy with a 6.5t motor i just have no clue what is good, i no in 1/8 scale people love tekin but in 1/10 scale i have no clue so some help and advise would be greatly appreciated TIA.
The most recommended upgrade is the rear lower brass weight.
Spares: Front shock tower, and front arms
Any 6.5T motor or 7.5T is good. Ares Pro, Speed Passion, Reedy, even the Trackstar is good.
ESC - Toro, G-Force, HobbyWing, Speed Passion are all pretty good. I use the Toro TS120 from SkyRC myself.
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Old 02-14-2015, 12:29 AM
  #17618  
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Coming back to RC racing after nearly 20 years, I notice alot of the cars have moved weight noticably from the rear to the front. I purchased a Cat K1 and found it too twitchy with little room for chamge, I now own a V4 which I love working on, but I find also very twitchy. Ive done everything I can think of but I 'm now considering something with a shorty and the motor by its side at the back of the chasis.
I suppose the fast laps come from the cars being ultra responsive but I cant drive any other way than smooth, smooth , smooth.
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Old 02-14-2015, 12:43 AM
  #17619  
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you need to drive a losi.
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker
you need to drive a losi.
In my opinion my 22-4 was even twitchier then my V4. At least with my v4 if I run it hard into the corner it doesn't wAnt to traction roll into every corner. Haha👍
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:55 AM
  #17621  
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If it is twitchy, make sure to run less aggressive rear tires. I tried Typos for the rear and they had too much traction, and Ions were perfect. I will go to JC slicks next for the rear. I know people want to drive the same tyres front and rear, but that does not always work. I just spent some more time ironing out some details, like servo arm extension. I am using a 2271 servo, and it is taller than most servos, so I had to extend the ball cup. I also tried to wire up a BEC, but it was giving me servo problems, so I yanked it.
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Old 02-14-2015, 01:23 PM
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Has anybody else notice that the new arms break easier, right around the capture screw. does anybody have a solution to this issue or is just me.
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Old 02-14-2015, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by anythinggas
Has anybody else notice that the new arms break easier, right around the capture screw. does anybody have a solution to this issue or is just me.
Actually since I have upgraded to my v4 from the v3 I have only broken two front arms since i got the car in September and trust me there have been plenty of times I felt the car should of broke and it didn't.

I really want to try the 22-4, but my v4 has been so good to me I just can't make the jump ( that and I hate building ball diffs)
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Old 02-14-2015, 02:06 PM
  #17624  
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New arms break easier because they are new, they need to absorb moisture to become more flexible you can speed up the process by boiling them
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Old 02-14-2015, 05:18 PM
  #17625  
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+1 for less aggressive tires to help the car be less twitchy. 21 degree castor blocks are another good way to smooth the car out. I've run JC dirtwebs gold compound up front with silver in the rear with good results. I've also found that running thicker oil up front really helps too. I'm currently running 35/2x1.6 in front and 30/2x1.7 in the rear. I usually race indoors here in SoCal so it's rarely below 50F. Colder temps require a little softer tire I've found too. When it's hot in the summer time I usually go up with my shock oil too. Probably the diff oil as well.
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