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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 02-05-2015, 03:48 PM
  #17596  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
I'm running the 7/3 oils haven't had a need to change it. I read further back and Dino actually said to run the d joints up front and the u Joint every where else. I found some really cheap d joint rear on ebay but am going to switch everything to the u joint. It's more efficient anyway and try d joint up front. Hope to have them sometime next week.
Yes going u-joints in the rear drive axles is going to get you way more side bite. Thus it will reduce the twitchy steering and make the car more planted in turns.
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:53 PM
  #17597  
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Originally Posted by MeSE-Rious#6
Can anyone safely recommend another option (budget friendly) in saddle packs? I've got a couple ProTek packs and a couple TrakPower ones, buts it's getting expensive quickly. I'd like to see what other options are out there. I've been eyeing some from HK (NanoTech 4.85, 5.0, 5.1 etc), but am hesitant to pull the trigger. Thanks.
SMC was selling square packs for $39.95, and they are awesome for this car. I have four of these batteries.
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Old 02-05-2015, 04:02 PM
  #17598  
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Now I find out about running D joints in the front, oh well. I am going to go ahead and use the uni's, they weren't cheap. I just want something very smooth and I figure that these should be. Now to save for a new servo and unis in the rear. With the way the rear drive shafts are angled, they need some serious help. I have already blown one set of bearings apart in the rear. I just picked up another one of these in a roller, and it looks great. It was one of those deals you don't sleep well at night if you pass it up, you know, "what was I thinking." Even came with a motor and new body never painted. Plus it has the thick carbon fiber towers, and Lunsford ball cups. Now I have a complete backup, minus servos.
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Old 02-05-2015, 04:10 PM
  #17599  
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Has anyone tried the new style slicks on these?
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Old 02-05-2015, 05:50 PM
  #17600  
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Default Duraguo 1:10 SC4WD Truck

I did saw the Durxguo froma website ,but what about or deferent with Tamiya ?
Originally Posted by nsr250repsol
This car is probibly the coolest 1/10 Buggy since the Original Tamiya Avante!!

I really dig the design and will likely get one once it is released. I just hope I don't have to sell the farm to do it.

You are right there isn't much room for the electronics but I currently have a Mid44 and it has very little room for electronics as well.

Spares might be a pain to get for this car though.
Attached Thumbnails Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-2.png  
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Old 02-06-2015, 03:03 AM
  #17601  
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I was reading through the antisquat setting guide and it recommended that the +2 block should be used for low traction tracks, has anyone tried it? Are there any side effects compared to the -2 block?
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Old 02-06-2015, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by frankf
I was reading through the antisquat setting guide and it recommended that the +2 block should be used for low traction tracks, has anyone tried it? Are there any side effects compared to the -2 block?
I remember reading this awhile back as well. But that statement can be deceiving. I believe the higher the hinge pins the more roll. Therefore generating more grip if you have enough droop. I have never tried it but I believe the 410 has enough rear roll already in the -2 position. Maybe someone else can give their real world experience.....
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Old 02-06-2015, 05:16 AM
  #17603  
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Still new to the saddle pack scene......with that being said, most 2s saddle manufactures sell their lipos with a harness that runs their packs in series, thus doubleing the voltage to 14.8v, but why? Wouldn't it benefit more if they sold them with a parallel harness or something? 7.4v with 10000-12000mah would be great! I know I could easily wire it line to line (parallel) but I just don't get it. Wouldn't most ESC fry with that much voltage? I have no experience in the saddle pack world but am learning slowly, so take it easy on me lol. Maybe I'm reading too into it or hell maybe im flat out wrong! For instance, I have a few proTek and a few TrakPower saddles and am slightly confused....how would I wire these per-say

http://www.amain.com/protek-rc-2s-su...500mah/p248314
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Old 02-06-2015, 05:36 AM
  #17604  
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Originally Posted by MeSE-Rious#6
Still new to the saddle pack scene......with that being said, most 2s saddle manufactures sell their lipos with a harness that runs their packs in series, thus doubleing the voltage to 14.8v, but why? Wouldn't it benefit more if they sold them with a parallel harness or something? 7.4v with 10000-12000mah would be great! I know I could easily wire it line to line (parallel) but I just don't get it. Wouldn't most ESC fry with that much voltage? I have no experience in the saddle pack world but am learning slowly, so take it easy on me lol. Maybe I'm reading too into it or hell maybe im flat out wrong! For instance, I have a few proTek and a few TrakPower saddles and am slightly confused....how would I wire these per-say

http://www.amain.com/protek-rc-2s-su...500mah/p248314
Eh ?

Each Saddle cell is 3.7v, in series thats 7.4v. So you wire + to - between the cells, then take other + and - to the ESC.
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Old 02-06-2015, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
Eh ?

Each Saddle cell is 3.7v, in series thats 7.4v. So you wire + to - between the cells, then take other + and - to the ESC.
Hmmm, ok. So ea saddle is 1s? Guess some manufacturers should label them as such and not 2s. All my saddles have 2s (7.4v) labeled on ea saddle. Unlike the SMC saddle pack that actually has 1s (3.7v) on ea saddle.
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Old 02-06-2015, 08:05 AM
  #17606  
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Originally Posted by MeSE-Rious#6
Hmmm, ok. So ea saddle is 1s? Guess some manufacturers should label them as such and not 2s. All my saddles have 2s (7.4v) labeled on ea saddle. Unlike the SMC saddle pack that actually has 1s (3.7v) on ea saddle.
Yes 1s. True, that is confusing to the un-trained eye !

If your considering a Saddle for this car, consider a Brick pack instead...less wires, less resistance, less chance of human error etc.
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Old 02-06-2015, 09:30 AM
  #17607  
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
Yes 1s. True, that is confusing to the un-trained eye !

If your considering a Saddle for this car, consider a Brick pack instead...less wires, less resistance, less chance of human error etc.
Got ya. Much thanks for the clarification!
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Old 02-06-2015, 01:10 PM
  #17608  
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Originally Posted by platgof
Has anyone tried the new style slicks on these?
I run the Jconcept Smoothies on mine and the car is so good everywhere around the track. I have run Panthers on my other cars and they were always way to aggressive in the corners. I just run the 2wd Front tires on 4wd wheels and it seems to be a really good combo for me.
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Old 02-07-2015, 06:40 AM
  #17609  
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Is it necessary for you to vent the tires on this buggy or in this class? I know back in the day some people would punch holes in their tires (about 2 mm) in order for their tires to gain flex etc. Thanks.
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Old 02-07-2015, 05:05 PM
  #17610  
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Originally Posted by MeSE-Rious#6
Hmmm, ok. So ea saddle is 1s? Guess some manufacturers should label them as such and not 2s. All my saddles have 2s (7.4v) labeled on ea saddle. Unlike the SMC saddle pack that actually has 1s (3.7v) on ea saddle.
If you run SMC squares, you don't have that problem, like with the saddles. Just two wires to deal with, and at $39.95 each, a steal.
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