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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 01-04-2015, 10:42 AM
  #17431  
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I am not complaining about the cars performance at all, as I really like driving this car. It is that everytime I go out something comes apart. I realize that 4x4 buggy is the hardest class as far as durability goes, as I have seen my share of other brand 4x4 buggies having a lot of problems as well.
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Old 01-04-2015, 01:01 PM
  #17432  
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu
seems Neumann also needs mcmaster pins. :P
another broken&bent pin, while the arm stays strong...
Do his rear bulkheads look silver?
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Old 01-04-2015, 01:22 PM
  #17433  
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Originally Posted by platgof
Ever have one of those nights. I broke all three cars in one night? I broke the steering brace on the Dex410V3 for some reason, snapped it in half, really! I am really starting to wonder about this cars reliability. I mean it breaks every time I take it to the track. The steering brace was the last item I would have thought would break. At least I had the parts to fix everything.
I have had those nights. BUT just this past week a couple of faster guys broke. One was a b44 another d413. I outlasted them. Another guy has a kyosho but keeps breaking it. He hasn't ran it in a month. I have taken a few hard tumbles and haven't broken anything lately. I have had some really hard crashes and broke a rear arm but that is about it. Last night my motor screw came loose. that was annoying.
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Old 01-04-2015, 06:33 PM
  #17434  
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I have heard the Xray is the toughest, but I have seen them break as well, and the Losi, arghhh, nothing but trouble prone. I really enjoy the control of this car, and mine self levels in the air, really neat. I guess all the power these have, it is the nature of the beast. Too much power in a small package??? I had a lot less trouble with a 10.5 in it. i couldn't win, but I always finished, hmm!
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Old 01-04-2015, 07:03 PM
  #17435  
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Is this a forum like a rctech?or a company?a club?
Originally Posted by RyyRyy
Here is the latest i seen (posted today)
http://www.redrc.net/2009/02/exclusi...urango-dex410/
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:24 PM
  #17436  
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Originally Posted by magenepaile
Is this a forum like a rctech?or a company?a club?
Red RC is a RC news site.
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:16 AM
  #17437  
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Originally Posted by SamuraiJack
Do his rear bulkheads look silver?
Yes, it was the prototype chassis from the worlds 2013!
Attached Thumbnails Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:34 AM
  #17438  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
PS, I think if used the plastic rear diff hoop and my new battery hold down setup I could move the battery a little farther back towards the wheels for more rear traction. Anyone else done this with their shorty setups?
I've been working on this kind of design for a while ( gave up trying to get a resonably priced CF chassis in Australia). I'd be keen to see how much you lose if you use the SMC 1/2 height shorties, drop even more weight and then put it where you want it ( and have more clearance on the drive shaft ).
I assume you still need to remove the spur to swap batteries?
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Old 01-05-2015, 10:13 AM
  #17439  
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@reflexia: Which SMC half height shorty exactly? can you link or give part number? This is an interesting idea as well. I've also looked at a few of the smaller MAH batteries they offer thinking of going lighter. The thing with going to a lighter battery though, I think I'd have to try and move the ESC or motor to the back to balance the car out. I think the 4600 shorty pack gives me a little more run time and I'm closer to front to rear balance. I'm going to balance the car on points soon (I have a DIY chassis balancer). I'll post my findings


Side note...I do like the run time I get with my nano tech 5600 saddles though and I considered getting a 5800 square pack. I haven't run it with the shorty setup to compare yet but I hope to this week.
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Old 01-05-2015, 10:42 AM
  #17440  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
@reflexia: Which SMC half height shorty exactly? can you link or give part number? This is an interesting idea as well. I've also looked at a few of the smaller MAH batteries they offer thinking of going lighter. The thing with going to a lighter battery though, I think I'd have to try and move the ESC or motor to the back to balance the car out. I think the 4600 shorty pack gives me a little more run time and I'm closer to front to rear balance. I'm going to balance the car on points soon (I have a DIY chassis balancer). I'll post my findings


Side note...I do like the run time I get with my nano tech 5600 saddles though and I considered getting a 5800 square pack. I haven't run it with the shorty setup to compare yet but I hope to this week.
The shorty makes the car front heavy, which is fine on high bite tracks, but if your track is borderline med or less, the full weight of the saddles is better, or you have to run both the side and rear weights.

Another thing about the half height packs is that you need to secure foam or something to hold it down properly, even still it moves around after a run. You kinda need foam on the sides to keep the 1/2 height shortly from dancing around and it's even lighter than a standard shorty.
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Old 01-05-2015, 01:19 PM
  #17441  
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as for durability I haven't broken any shock towers since I started using the HPI vorza protectors. I'm only using them up front but I've considered going all the way around.

I still however break front arms from time to time. I am definitely running the new Type B and it's fairly warm in SoCal so I don't think it's cold brittleness. I haven't tried boiling yet but plan to. Given that I still break arms and I saw this for the B44.3 I wish Durango would do something similar, or maybe aftermarket.

http://www.redrc.net/2014/12/exotek-...ad/#more-90574

I think the rear plastic inserts help give the car a little bit of give and that prevents rear arm breakage from happening as often as the front. Perhaps modifying the alum hubs to have plastic inserts would also provide a similar design advantage. Just thinking of the top of my head here

Happy 2015 guys!
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Old 01-05-2015, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Reflexia
I've been working on this kind of design for a while ( gave up trying to get a resonably priced CF chassis in Australia). I'd be keen to see how much you lose if you use the SMC 1/2 height shorties, drop even more weight and then put it where you want it ( and have more clearance on the drive shaft ).
I assume you still need to remove the spur to swap batteries?
Yes, I remove the spur to remove my batteries. I also did this with saddle packs, just seems easier.

Dino is right about the weight, going with smaller packs only makes this worse. I'm afraid that saddle pack weight vs balanced shorty pack weight will be the same.

I looked at a low profile servo today and although it had better specs than my Savox 1258 it was actually 2 grams heavier so I'll have to keep looking for a servo that might lighten up the front end. I think this is why most shorty pack 4WD designs have the motor in the rear as it's difficult to balance the car otherwise.
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Old 01-05-2015, 02:34 PM
  #17443  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Yes, I remove the spur to remove my batteries. I also did this with saddle packs, just seems easier.

Dino is right about the weight, going with smaller packs only makes this worse. I'm afraid that saddle pack weight vs balanced shorty pack weight will be the same.

I looked at a low profile servo today and although it had better specs than my Savox 1258 it was actually 2 grams heavier so I'll have to keep looking for a servo that might lighten up the front end. I think this is why most shorty pack 4WD designs have the motor in the rear as it's difficult to balance the car otherwise.
That is correct. The current crop of cars have the motor in the rear along side the short pack to maintain a decent weight distribution.

I was looking at some configurations by converting the current chassis, however, if you want to keep the current v4 body, you need to basically cut the rear of the plastic chassis brace and don't run the carbon or metal U shaped brace. So that the shorty can be placed offset to one side, and have the motor mount flipped to the other side.
But you will need to custom build a center brace to keep the back part of the chassis from flexing. The other way was to use a wider chassis to allow for different configurations. Kinda wished they released the world's chassis as a conversion (hint hint)
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Old 01-05-2015, 02:50 PM
  #17444  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Yes, I remove the spur to remove my batteries. I also did this with saddle packs, just seems easier.
.
I cut the standard battery strap in half which allows you to slip a shorty pack in and out without removing the spur, will post a pic later
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Old 01-05-2015, 07:37 PM
  #17445  
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@frankF: I think I understand what you mean. If you split the battery strap you can pull each side up passed the center drive shaft. I may have opted for this however the battery strap blocks my battery post holes unless I run them in the rear and then I need longer wires. I may go back to something like this, who knows. I expect this might be temporary.
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