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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 01-02-2015, 10:46 PM
  #17416  
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Internal ratio is 2.47 go to www.petitrc.com there is a wealth of knowledge on there, setup sheets and you can download the dex410 gearchart
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Old 01-02-2015, 10:59 PM
  #17417  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
We only have one 180 the rest are flowing or after a jump and it will just flip around any. did the 5k slow it down a bit. I just don't feel like spending 40 on those parts en I could be getting more of other things.
5k will give you more off power steering but less on power and I found it made the buggy more twitchy to drive, you already mentioned your car pushed on power so 5k will only make that worse i would stick with 7k or try 10k
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:59 AM
  #17418  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
We only have one 180 the rest are flowing or after a jump and it will just flip around anyway. did the 5k slow it down a bit. I just don't feel like spending 40 on those parts when I could be getting more of other things.
All the more reason to get the 21's. They help on long sweepers as well as tame the car down. I think you will be sorry if you don't try them. You could always sell them if they don't work out. I run the 21's with 7k in the front and have plenty of steering with a more stable/predictable car....
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Old 01-03-2015, 02:03 PM
  #17419  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Double check if your suspension is binding somehow. First I would take the shocks off and make sure that the arms drop under their own weight and if you lift the arms and release that they would fall back down. Sometimes the hinge pins can be bent or have rust or dirt on them. If your arms drop easily without the shocks, then the next I would check the shocks to ensure free movement in the shaft. Remove the oil and make sure the shaft goes in and out smoothly.
You could have bent shafts, or damaged o-rings which have dirt in them which could cause it to hinder movement.
Thanks dude. All these things look good. Is 8mm a lot for preload?
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Old 01-03-2015, 04:10 PM
  #17420  
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8mm is fine as long as that's what it takes to get the ride hight your after. Some spring require more preload others less.
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:06 PM
  #17421  
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Hi all. I just made a deal on a Dex410v3. I wanted to know if the V3 can be upgraded to the V4?
I will be running it on an 8th scale track that has good traction but can get rough. Any setups would be great.
Thanks
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:21 PM
  #17422  
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Originally Posted by supertool28
Hi all. I just made a deal on a Dex410v3. I wanted to know if the V3 can be upgraded to the V4?
I will be running it on an 8th scale track that has good traction but can get rough. Any setups would be great.
Thanks
It can definitely be upgraded to a v4, but i found for the cost in parts it was just cheaper for me to buy a used v4 in great shape.

I started out with a dex408 that I was so happy with, I sold my b44.2 and immediately built a dex410v3. I spent a year frustrated with the car and all was ready to give up on the 1/10th scale durango cars. Then about 3 months ago I found a v4 for 200.00 on RCtech and decided to give it a shot.

I have been beyond happy with the new v4. Biggest things Ive noticed. I no longer ever pop a ballcup, I no longer ever break front arms, and I no longer ever pop a center driveshaft when landing a jump on the v4. These were problems I commonly struggled with on the v3.
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:30 PM
  #17423  
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Originally Posted by tommytom
It can definitely be upgraded to a v4, but i found for the cost in parts it was just cheaper for me to buy a used v4 in great shape.

I started out with a dex408 that I was so happy with, I sold my b44.2 and immediately built a dex410v3. I spent a year frustrated with the car and all was ready to give up on the 1/10th scale durango cars. Then about 3 months ago I found a v4 for 200.00 on RCtech and decided to give it a shot.

I have been beyond happy with the new v4. Biggest things Ive noticed. I no longer ever pop a ballcup, I no longer ever break front arms, and I no longer ever pop a center driveshaft when landing a jump on the v4. These were problems I commonly struggled with on the v3.
yup great info.

upgrade parts listed here http://www.rctech.net/forum/12845901-post14877.html

I would probably do this:

SUSPENSION ARM SET: REAR (Type B 1 pair) TD230036
SUSPENSION ARM SET: FRONT (Type B 1 pair) TD230037
UJ MID-FRONT TD310426
UJ MID-REAR TD310424
2mm HEX BALL M3x10mm (4pcs) TD330601
2mm HEX BALL M3x7mm (4pcs) TD330602
DIMEC X BALL END SET (BLACK) TD330591
HD HINGE PIN: REAR SUSPENSION INNER (52mm 2pcs) TD330405
HD HINGE PIN: FRONT SUSPENSION INNER (45mm 2pcs) TD330406


Not sure if you need the two way slipper with the center UJ's..maybe someone else can chime in..
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:43 PM
  #17424  
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
yup great info.

upgrade parts listed here http://www.rctech.net/forum/12845901-post14877.html

I would probably do this:

SUSPENSION ARM SET: REAR (Type B 1 pair) TD230036
SUSPENSION ARM SET: FRONT (Type B 1 pair) TD230037
UJ MID-FRONT TD310426
UJ MID-REAR TD310424
2mm HEX BALL M3x10mm (4pcs) TD330601
2mm HEX BALL M3x7mm (4pcs) TD330602
DIMEC X BALL END SET (BLACK) TD330591
HD HINGE PIN: REAR SUSPENSION INNER (52mm 2pcs) TD330405
HD HINGE PIN: FRONT SUSPENSION INNER (45mm 2pcs) TD330406


Not sure if you need the two way slipper with the center UJ's..maybe someone else can chime in..
^ What he said....

Other things that made my car more stable (which was generally always loose in the rear)
1 Degree hubs with just the skidplate weight (don't bother with the side weights) (Big Clay Track Leisure Hours Raceway)

The aluminum rear gearbox inserts were worth the money imho. If I got rear ended I would break the rear bulkhead which sucks because you have to take the back half of the car apart. The aluminum inserts seem to absorb the energy from the rear impact and save the bulkhead.

If you can find 21 degree hubs or even 19 degree hubs it make the car a lot less twitchy as well. I know alot of people put the 21's on, but I have been happy with the 19 degree hubs that came on the v4 (the v3 comes with 17's...) I would suggest going to 21's if you have going to pay retail prices.
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Old 01-03-2015, 06:15 PM
  #17425  
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+1 on 1 rear hubs
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Old 01-03-2015, 07:54 PM
  #17426  
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Ever have one of those nights. I broke all three cars in one night? I broke the steering brace on the Dex410V3 for some reason, snapped it in half, really! I am really starting to wonder about this cars reliability. I mean it breaks every time I take it to the track. The steering brace was the last item I would have thought would break. At least I had the parts to fix everything.

Last edited by platgof; 01-04-2015 at 05:27 AM.
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Old 01-03-2015, 08:10 PM
  #17427  
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Originally Posted by platgof
Ever have one of those nights. I broke all three cars in one night? I broke the steering brace on the Dex410V3 for some reason, snapped it in half, really! I am really starting to wonder about this cars reliability. I mean it brakes every time I take it to the track. The steering brace was the last item I would have thought would break. At least I had the parts to fix everything.
Some tracks are harder on the car than others. My local track the car never breaks and I can push it hard. Went to another track last where historically I never finish a race..and sure enough broke the front bulkhead on practice.
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Old 01-04-2015, 05:30 AM
  #17428  
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It is a very hard track with high pitched jumps. Like I said I broke all three last night. The worst was the Desc410, as I ripped the front arm out, RPM no less. I have a few parts I need to order for back up. At least it lasted three rounds, unlike the Dex410 which broke in practice.
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:03 AM
  #17429  
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I own all the durango cars. With the desc410oudn that once i go tthe set up good the truck seemed to stop crashing and if for some reason i do crash it always gets back to its whhels and very rarely breaks. I decided to stick with the oe arms but i did start using the titanium pins which also helped alot. as far as the dex410 i didnt have the v3, but i do feel that the V4 has aot of advantages as far as quality of products and the hop ups the car came equipped with. the car is super durable i have only broken it one time and it was a hard hit so i wasnt even upset. the dex210v2 also has alot more durability than the previous model which leads me to believe the company is going in the right direction with the producty line. I have seen the new 1/8 scale prototypes up close and i am very happy with the changes so i am going to stick with them
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:33 AM
  #17430  
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I love my DEX410 and I've been able to reduce some of the durability issues by using plastic spacers at the suspension hinge pins instead of alum and also by using the HPI Vorza Shock protectors (Thanks Dino D). I haven't yet tried the McMaster Carr hinge pins but I've heard this a great choice as well. The Type B arms due to the set screw hinge pin setup as well as allowing for a spacer for wheelbase.

I also wanted to share my shorty battery setup with the good folks here since we all seem to agree that lightening up the car also helps durability. I haven't had a chance to balance it yet but I think it's actually still pretty close front to rear if I keep the Tresrey rear weight installed under the diff which adds about 30 grams. I think if I keep it this way I could move the receiver and the capacitor to the battery tray area and this would help the car have better front to rear balance. I haven't yet but I'm also able to move the ESC a little farther back which also helps to balance the car. I just need to re-do my wires before I can move it farther….I'll post more pics if anyone is curious.

PS, I think if used the plastic rear diff hoop and my new battery hold down setup I could move the battery a little farther back towards the wheels for more rear traction. Anyone else done this with their shorty setups?
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