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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 12-30-2014, 03:53 AM
  #17386  
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Originally Posted by KBRacing
Hi All,

Is there anyone who can tell me what the difference between rear brace in Plastic, Carbon Fibre and the Flex Brace System ... ???
I've only had reason to run the c/f.
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Old 12-30-2014, 06:42 AM
  #17387  
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Originally Posted by thefan
Has anyone had trouble with the rear gearbox insert braking which in turn helps the bulkhead break I am now contemplating whether to get the aluminium insert or the brass weight insert, I use shorty lipos so I can use more weight but is it any good to have the weight so far back as opposed to inside the wheelbase?
Only time i've broken the bulkhead is when i've used the Alum suspension inserts!!! They had a couple in my LHS and i decided to buy some bling...and paid for it..!!!

So I've always run the plastic ones, as I think the flex helps rather than hinders.... I think there is more material on the v4 ones (although I don't have any old ones to compare with). TD tend to update parts without changing part numbers so its sometimes subtle.

I know people on here have recommended the Alum Susp inserts as good upgrades but not required in my personal experience...

I do run the new Brass Susp inserts in my DESC410v2 and they've been great, no issues and help with rear weight.
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Old 12-30-2014, 09:52 AM
  #17388  
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Piles is correct. However, in regards to running a Shorty and the car being perhaps too light as a resultů it's not. The 410 is plenty heavy and running a Shorty can be quite beneficial because the car becomes a tad more nimble. The trick is adjusting weight distribution so you'll likely want to run your electronics a tad further back as required. Lightning the overall package is a major PLUS for this car.

However, A number 1 on the list of weighing the car down any 410 is the brass skid plate because it places weight as low as humanly possible, thereby creating the lowest possible roll center and being that it's all the way in the rear, it helps rear traction considerably. And there is no need for the side weights at all when you have the rear skid plate, but they MIGHT come in handy for smaller tighter indoor clay tracks, though I run my car one way and adjust my driving to the track.
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:03 AM
  #17389  
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Originally Posted by frankf
What fan mount is that and does it fit under the v4 body? And as for being loose in the rear with a shorty pack yes it is but you can add weight to get it closer to a saddle pack and setup the car to compensate, I chose shortys because I can fit and remove them without pulling the spur gear assembly out and the fact I already had them.
You can use the Spec-R fan mount to place a 30mm fan under the front drive shaft. You just use the Antenna mount hole to mount it. VERY CLEAN and convenient. If and when my 3M servo tape fails, that's what I'm buying.

NOT MY CAR:
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:42 AM
  #17390  
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Originally Posted by KBRacing
Hi All,

Is there anyone who can tell me what the difference between brace in Plastic, Carbon Fibre and the Flex Brace System ... ???
It's all for flexibility.... Flexibility can add traction when needed. Loose tracks you need the flex..... When the track has lots of traction, you can go to a stiffer brace.
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Old 12-30-2014, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
Only time i've broken the bulkhead is when i've used the Alum suspension inserts!!! They had a couple in my LHS and i decided to buy some bling...and paid for it..!!!

So I've always run the plastic ones, as I think the flex helps rather than hinders.... I think there is more material on the v4 ones (although I don't have any old ones to compare with). TD tend to update parts without changing part numbers so its sometimes subtle.

I know people on here have recommended the Alum Susp inserts as good upgrades but not required in my personal experience...

I do run the new Brass Susp inserts in my DESC410v2 and they've been great, no issues and help with rear weight.
That seems odd because when I broke my bulkhead I noticed the inserts were both broken at the screw hole where they attach to the bulkhead which means the bulkhead is only supported at the front so it can now flex to the point where it snaps near the diff but if the inserts were aluminum and didn't break at the holes it would add support to the bulkhead, well thats my theory anyway
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Old 12-30-2014, 12:21 PM
  #17392  
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Originally Posted by frankf
That seems odd because when I broke my bulkhead I noticed the inserts were both broken at the screw hole where they attach to the bulkhead which means the bulkhead is only supported at the front so it can now flex to the point where it snaps near the diff but if the inserts were aluminum and didn't break at the holes it would add support to the bulkhead, well thats my theory anyway
i was as surprised and obviously bummed as I basically threw $40 in the trash ..
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:18 PM
  #17393  
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I have thrown a lot of money in the RC Car trash can. Bad esc's, motors, batteries, most from Hobby King, lol!
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Old 12-31-2014, 06:30 PM
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Happy 2015 to all my DEX410 brethren!
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Old 12-31-2014, 08:09 PM
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Did something a little out of the box with my 410. I'm probably the only person trying to get at least 18s min run. I'm part of a small local club and want to race more then 2 classes a nite. With my 2wds it's not a problem but my 4wd just won't quite make it.

Soo this is what I came up with. Shortys in parallel. A lot of guys are adding extra weight anyway so I though what the heck it never hurts to try. I'm not sure if this is against roar/local track rules but it's still 7.4v 2s. Gonna give it a go this week and I'll let ya know how she runs. 7600 mha should give me 18+min

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Old 12-31-2014, 10:05 PM
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Can't you just top the battery up on the charger between heats it really doesn't take long, as far as adding a little weight where usually only talking 30g skidplate maybe another 24g with the sides but you just added another 200g with a 2nd lipo that would have to affect the handling possibly needing stiffer springs which produces less traction cancelling out any benefit gained from the added weight
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Old 01-01-2015, 12:09 AM
  #17397  
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30g at the very back, adding the extra pack is a lot more central so on scales I don't think it would be a huge change, it's not slapping on 150+g to the very back. I wish you have scales to compare
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Old 01-01-2015, 12:55 AM
  #17398  
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I really havent had this car for that long, and there arent many recent Durango setups to go off of. Does anyone have a decent starting setup that is fast when not pushed very hard and has lots of steering? I'm having trouble getting speed out of my car even when it feels good.
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Old 01-01-2015, 03:41 AM
  #17399  
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Have you tried Dino's setup? I copied it completely and just run it with the exception of front diff oil, I went down to 5k to tone it down a bit on power
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Old 01-01-2015, 08:13 AM
  #17400  
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Originally Posted by Sodakota
Did something a little out of the box with my 410. I'm probably the only person trying to get at least 18s min run. I'm part of a small local club and want to race more then 2 classes a nite. With my 2wds it's not a problem but my 4wd just won't quite make it.

Soo this is what I came up with. Shortys in parallel. A lot of guys are adding extra weight anyway so I though what the heck it never hurts to try. I'm not sure if this is against roar/local track rules but it's still 7.4v 2s. Gonna give it a go this week and I'll let ya know how she runs. 7600 mha should give me 18+min


Ran the same setup a few years back on the 4x4 SC. It did help out with traction and runtime. Not sure on the buggy though. Try it what do you have to lose?
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