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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 11-18-2014, 11:27 AM
  #17236  
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Originally Posted by frankf
On the oils topic is it worth going thicker on a blue groove surface and moving rear arms forward but the hubs to the back?
Oils are used to control weight transfer mainly. I use the pistons holes to control pack. More holes or less holes to achieve the pack required keeping the same hole area ratio. Hotter days heavier oil, colder days, thinner oil. Once in a while I may step up the oil weight if running on a larger 8th scale track just to control weight transfer. So as for your question, going thicker. It depends on what your car has already and what is it doing? Even if the surface grooves up, how much more speed will you gain? Are you coming in hot and slamming the brakes hard, or coasting it thru? If you carry more speed and braking and your car seems to be nose diving as it starts to groove, then perhaps you can step up the oil weight by 1 (eg. 42wt to 45wt) to prevent the nose dive. I generally don't touch the rear if it is already ok. Grooved track allows for harder braking, hence the front, but as for the rear, if you step up too hard, you might sacrifice bump handling and make the car more nervous.

Sure it is the same as rear arms front and hubs back. Wheelbase is the same. But......

Arms forward and hubs back vs arms back hub forward, alters the point in which the arms connect to the chassis. Moving the rear arms forward adds more weight in the rear. Making this adjustment, you might have to check if your chassis will bottom on jumps, as the weight bias is more to the rear. Shifting the weight more to the rear on a blue groove track?

I normally run rear arms full back, hubs full front.
If it grooves at least I can start moving the hub to the middle to reduce rear traction and extend the wheelbase longer to add more stability as corner speeds increase. You can't make the wheel base any longer with arms front. At least I have the option of running rear arms rear, and hubs full rear. But I hardly use full rear, mainly front and middle.
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Old 11-18-2014, 03:49 PM
  #17237  
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Thanks dino I wrote thicker oils but what i meant was diff fluids I too use 7/3 but I know from the old days of racing nitro we would go thicker on the fluid if the track blue grooved and was wondering if that still applies to 1/10
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:59 AM
  #17238  
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Originally Posted by frankf
Thanks dino I wrote thicker oils but what i meant was diff fluids I too use 7/3 but I know from the old days of racing nitro we would go thicker on the fluid if the track blue grooved and was wondering if that still applies to 1/10
Yes if the track grooves up, definitely you can move to heavier oils.
Thicker front oil will reduce corner entry and give you more on power on exit.
Thicker rear will make the car push on entry, slide more mid corner for more steering and more aggressive on exit.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:08 PM
  #17239  
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Old 11-25-2014, 09:27 PM
  #17240  
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So new to this thread. New to the vehicle. Not new to Durango. there are a lot of pages I looked through some of them but my eyes hurt LOL. Couple questions. How important are the 19 degree or 21 degree cater blocks? I currently have the unmarked ones which I believe are the 17 degree blocks. I will be using Dino's setup as his 4x4 and 2wd are just sic and work for me very well. I have the v3. I also noticed that my saddle packs don't fit like they do in the desc. Should they fit? It should be just an adjustment or did they change it in the middle of production of the v3? TY
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:43 PM
  #17241  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
So new to this thread. New to the vehicle. Not new to Durango. there are a lot of pages I looked through some of them but my eyes hurt LOL. Couple questions. How important are the 19 degree or 21 degree cater blocks? I currently have the unmarked ones which I believe are the 17 degree blocks. I will be using Dino's setup as his 4x4 and 2wd are just sic and work for me very well. I have the v3. I also noticed that my saddle packs don't fit like they do in the desc. Should they fit? It should be just an adjustment or did they change it in the middle of production of the v3? TY
v3 comes with 17 unmarked.. v4 comes with 19.
17 to 21 make a difference. 19 to 21 not so much. You can always opt for 1 step higher front compound to tame the front end steering down.
Also your battery.. Make sure its on the upper hole for the battery hooks.
Use my v4 setup as a base, if you are using a v3, make sure you go one step higher on the front tire if you don't have the caster 19 or 21 caster blocks.
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Old 11-26-2014, 01:00 AM
  #17242  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
v3 comes with 17 unmarked.. v4 comes with 19.
17 to 21 make a difference. 19 to 21 not so much. You can always opt for 1 step higher front compound to tame the front end steering down.
Also your battery.. Make sure its on the upper hole for the battery hooks.
Use my v4 setup as a base, if you are using a v3, make sure you go one step higher on the front tire if you don't have the caster 19 or 21 caster blocks.
Thanks Dino. I will look into getting the 19 and tuning with tires from there. I didn't think the steering was too bad now. It does have lots of steering. I am close to your setup now. Waiting on pistons and the -2 RR. It has the +2 on it now with upside down 1 on antisquat. Buggy is killer. With out correct tires I was just a few seconds off an xray that placed 1st. Going to be a fun winter.
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Old 11-26-2014, 05:19 AM
  #17243  
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Wondering if the center universal drive shafts will fit my 1st model 410R and do I need to change anything like the slipper coupler that drives the rear to the long version.

Thanks
Rob
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Old 11-26-2014, 03:23 PM
  #17244  
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Originally Posted by Rutters
Wondering if the center universal drive shafts will fit my 1st model 410R and do I need to change anything like the slipper coupler that drives the rear to the long version.

Thanks
Rob
They will fit, you will need the longer coupling though.
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Old 11-26-2014, 04:44 PM
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Thanks, love Durango's backward compatibility.
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Old 11-26-2014, 05:58 PM
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The +2 rear block. I was looking to buy the -2 block but a main had it listed as a +2/-2 block. Can it be flipped or are they seperate blocks? Also confused on the +4 block. Is that for 4 degrees of toe? It looks different than what I currently have.
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Old 11-26-2014, 06:30 PM
  #17247  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
The +2 rear block. I was looking to buy the -2 block but a main had it listed as a +2/-2 block. Can it be flipped or are they seperate blocks? Also confused on the +4 block. Is that for 4 degrees of toe? It looks different than what I currently have.
The RF block, #TD330008, can be mounted to give +2 or -2 by flipping it.
The RR +4 block is an older part from before they released the insert version, you would change kickup by swapping blocks. Here's TDs guide for changing kickup with the -2/+2 RF block and the insert RR block http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...quat-settings/
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Old 11-26-2014, 08:41 PM
  #17248  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
The +2 rear block. I was looking to buy the -2 block but a main had it listed as a +2/-2 block. Can it be flipped or are they seperate blocks? Also confused on the +4 block. Is that for 4 degrees of toe? It looks different than what I currently have.
Check to see if your part is the +2 / -2 part. Most v3 come with it, and you just need to flip it.
The older ones I think are black. the flippable ones are that beige color.
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Old 11-27-2014, 11:43 AM
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It can be flipped. One more question LOL... CVD, u joint, D joint. I read about the cvd's creating bind and more traction. Does the D joint combine a little of both the cvd and u joint? I currently have the cvd's but have an opportunity to get the D joints. I will run on high traction a little bit but most of my runs will be on medium bite to low bite and outdoor in the summer.
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Old 11-27-2014, 01:59 PM
  #17250  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
It can be flipped. One more question LOL... CVD, u joint, D joint. I read about the cvd's creating bind and more traction. Does the D joint combine a little of both the cvd and u joint? I currently have the cvd's but have an opportunity to get the D joints. I will run on high traction a little bit but most of my runs will be on medium bite to low bite and outdoor in the summer.
For the center drive, universals would be better than CVDs and lighter than D-Joints. But the D-joints are better than the V3 center line CVDs.

__


For the drive line to the wheels. The D joints are more like universals and generally used only in the front. I hardly ever see D-joints used on the rear. Most touring cars run D-Joints in the front to eliminate wheel chatter when turning.

REAR:
I normally just swap out the rears to universals or CVD depending on the track conditions. Remember universal give you side grip, CVD give you forward grip.

FRONT:
D-Joints in the front will make your steering smoother thru corners and give you more steering overall, even more than universals as it reduces wheel chatter at extreme angles. Its awesome for carpet and smooth clay tracks where you can really attack the track. Universal will still chatter only at extreme angles such as max steering throw the last 5% or so. CVD will chatter earlier in the throw. Mind you the V4 CVD have the pins offset at a 90 angle so its less prone to lashing back vs the V3 CVDs when set at an angle.

CVD will make your front end push a bit more coming in corners and more aggressive on exit steering. Especially when you need to pull the car out of a corner.

Universals will give you more steering coming in and a bit more forgiving coming out and better on bumpy tracks.
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