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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 11-13-2014, 01:44 PM
  #17206  
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You're Welcome VinD.


Originally Posted by SamuraiJack
incubus, TLR ball studs are 4.8mm balls, right?
Yes sir.
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:34 PM
  #17207  
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Originally Posted by SamuraiJack
My car is still twitchy/bouncy on bumpy stuff. Small bumps. Can't get it to lay down. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Have you switched to the 2 and 3 hole pistons?
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Old 11-13-2014, 08:17 PM
  #17208  
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Originally Posted by platgof
Have you switched to the 2 and 3 hole pistons?
I am running 1.6x2 front 1.6x3 rear. Stock was 1.7x2 and 1.7x3.
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:46 PM
  #17209  
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Originally Posted by SamuraiJack
My car is still twitchy/bouncy on bumpy stuff. Small bumps. Can't get it to lay down. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Its difficult to say what's wrong unless you can give us what you are currently running. Pistons, oil and springs.

Either the oil it too thin and causing it to bottom or it's too thick and hoping around.
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:02 AM
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@VinD: I also contemplated the D413 for quite a while. I have not yet driven one but I've seen a few around my tracks. There were a few features that drew me to the platform, like the center diff, multiple battery and electronic mounting positions, shorty/saddle, and their reinforced suspension arms. After a lot of research and thought I decided to stay with my 410. Why? The 410 is the narrowest buggy in the class due to the battery and driveshaft placement AND you can use a shorty pack down the center with very minor mods. I'm a huge fan of symmetry and it's great to be able to keep this setup along with going lighter especially for SPEC class racing. Along these same lines if SPEC is your thing the molded diff gears and the dual slipper make for an EXTREMELY lightweight and low rotating mass system. This means massive acceleration. I am constantly OVERJUMPING because of the quickness this car has. Watch out if you run mod. I also own a DEX210v2 and it's awesome being able to share parts.

I think the shock tower design and the sandwich style option arms of the D413 are pretty genius. I wonder if they would better survive those unavoidable impacts.

*Disclaimer: Having not driven the D413 for a direct comparison these are just my thoughts. Hope they help you decide
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:42 AM
  #17211  
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The sanwiched arms are a direct copy of what Xray offers on the XB4.

The plastics on the 413 are rubbery which is what gives it it's durability and since there is quite a bit of flex, the arm plates are necessary to bring rigidity whenever needed. If the arms were designed a little more rigidly the plastic cover plates would not be needed and instead, anyone needing a bit more stiffness (nnnThat's what she said) could opt for a CF plate.

The whole Center diff argument is Meh to me because running against 413's on track (up to 6 or 7 now) the drivers piloting them aren't doing any better than they were previously with the 44.2's K1's, 410's, etc. and for as much hype about how much easier it is to drive a 413 on power, I don't see anyone making less mistakes and/or driving cleaner in any capacity, so to me that's a classic case of Placebo effect influence. This is not to disparage any car by any means, just stating what I've seen from personal experience. The only area in which I'd agree a center diff is extremely advantageous is in how tight it turns at very low speeds, which is nothing we see on any track. And if I wanted to turn that tight I could and even tighter if I whip on the throttle for quick burst of power. Can do a PERFECT 180 in the space a 413 can with it's center diff. :-P

I run Metal Gears in my 410 exclusively and see no possible scenario where I'd prefer plastic gears. We have really fast guys running really low turn motors so I need to keep up and I'd hate to lose out on a good result due to running plastic gears.
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:17 AM
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@incubus: been running a 6.5T in my 410 with plastic gears for 3 full practice days now. I usually drive a little harder during practice than on race days too. Trying to push, find new lines etc.
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:17 AM
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The plastic gears are bomb proof. They give the car more snap and lower temperatures
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:29 AM
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Xray does look great and I see they also have the stiffeners. Good call
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:51 AM
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what is the stock rtr race weight of the 410? No lightening
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:06 AM
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Wow, Bomb Proof? If that's the case they have to be made from a plastic that's far superior to the XB4. Every XB4 I've handled is a tad lighter than my 410 and that is one of the more common problems with that car. Apparently there's a tad too much play between the gears and combined with todays hellacious power, it's destroyed XB4 Satellite gears with regularity.

Perhaps Durango did some research and made sure to better engineer their gears and used superior plastic to ensure this "Bullet Proof" reliability you speak of. I dunno, maybe when I order cross pins I'll pick up a set of the plastic gears and give them a try. The Temperature drop is more appealing to me but I'm still running D-Joints all around. Need to get new bearings SOON so I might go with universals after that. Just so absurdly overpriced and buying the full set of universals is more expensive than buying some kits!
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
what is the stock rtr race weight of the 410? No lightening
Don't know off the top of my head, but it's a bit hefty. My buddy ran a 44.2 decked out with all the avid upgrades, including the chassis and it was still lighter than my 410.
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Old 11-14-2014, 12:02 PM
  #17218  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Its difficult to say what's wrong unless you can give us what you are currently running. Pistons, oil and springs.

Either the oil it too thin and causing it to bottom or it's too thick and hoping around.
It's stock v4 except: aforementioned smaller piston holes , side weights, alum front tower, and 1 rear hubs. I have been trying both open and closed cell inserts too.
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Old 11-14-2014, 02:17 PM
  #17219  
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Ditch the side weights and go with the rear weight ONLY.

Placing the weight behind the shocks should calm it down a tad on bumpy sections because it has more leverage to pull the rear down more consistently and maintaining stability, thus improving grip and on-power traction.
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Old 11-14-2014, 02:24 PM
  #17220  
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Originally Posted by SamuraiJack
It's stock v4 except: aforementioned smaller piston holes , side weights, alum front tower, and 1 rear hubs. I have been trying both open and closed cell inserts too.
Stock suggest oils are too soft. It rolls way to much. I did post earlier

This is what I use using blue or purple o-rings and stock springs.
Hot summer day +30C
2x1.6 42wt Front
2x1.7 32wt Rear

Mild summer 25C - 40F/30R

Spring or fall under 20C - 37F/27R

Cool temps 10-15C - 35F/25R

Never tested below 10C.

Open cell if the track is low grip and bumpy. Closed cell for med grip semi smooth tracks.
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